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Floating Jigs


LucG

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I just picked up a few floating jigs with some weights to go along with them.

 

My question is how effective are these rigs for walleye? And what is the best lenght to leave between the sinker and jig, for about 20-30 ft of water.

Edited by LucG
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That set up can be lethal for eyes. A good start is setting your sinker anywere from 18-24 inches from your jighead. If you have a graph, watch it and see if they are suspended. If they are you may have to go to a slip float or a different bait.

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LucG,

The floating jig heads work fine...I find the only benefits to the floaters is that they come in different colors and if using nightcrawlers it eliminates needing to blow them full of air . Draw back is your stuck using the size and quality of hook they come with. I like my hooks super sharp and smaller than any hook Ive ever seen on a floating jig head so the floaters are out of the question for me. I use home made lindy rigs so all the separate components are chosen by me to my satisfaction. Plastic beads,micro swivels,fluorocarbon,top quality super sharp hooks...I figure you might as well put the ball in your court if your going to spend the time and effort into going after walleye....

Also, make shure you use a sliding walker weight of some sort to get your best sensitivity on your rig and if your going down 30 feet 3/8 to 1/2 oz weight will do fine...Between the swivel and your jig head I would use no less than a 24" tipit( fluoro leader) and no more than 36" only because you don't want to spook fish with you weight with a short tipit and to long of

a tipit and your wasting $$ on fluoracarbon.....

 

 

Cheers

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LucG,

The floating jig heads work fine...I find the only benefits to the floaters is that they come in different colors and if using nightcrawlers it eliminates needing to blow them full of air . Draw back is your stuck using the size and quality of hook they come with. I like my hooks super sharp and smaller than any hook Ive ever seen on a floating jig head so the floaters are out of the question for me. I use home made lindy rigs so all the separate components are chosen by me to my satisfaction. Plastic beads,micro swivels,fluorocarbon,top quality super sharp hooks...I figure you might as well put the ball in your court if your going to spend the time and effort into going after walleye....

Also, make shure you use a sliding walker weight of some sort to get your best sensitivity on your rig and if your going down 30 feet 3/8 to 1/2 oz weight will do fine...Between the swivel and your jig head I would use no less than a 24" tipit( fluoro leader) and no more than 36" only because you don't want to spook fish with you weight with a short tipit and to long of

a tipit and your wasting $$ on fluoracarbon.....

 

 

Cheers

 

Thanks for the great advice.

 

I've been trying to add different types of rigs to my fishing arsenal, such a texas/carolina rigs, drop shots, and now floating rigs. One common factor is that I often read to use flurocarbon leaders. Which I have not been using. Besides making the line invisble, what else does this line do?

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I found that the weight of the worm doesn't really make them float, as soon as i drop the floating jig into the water with the worm, it begins to sink.

 

It shouldn't sink at all if you're trolling or drifting. It'll go down to the depth you want it at and stay in that same general depth. I use 6-8lb mono behind the bouncer.

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Average length of lead for me is about 30". Short leads in the 12-15" range are used on occasion when the fish are tight to the bottom.

This summer I've had to finesse them to the nth degree and my leads have averaged 6-8', sometimes as long as 12'. It might seem too long to most but believe me on pressured finicky walleye especially in clear water, that's what you've got to do sometimes.

Like Chris I rarely use a floating jig head, just a simple live bait rig with a lindy sinker and hooks of my choosing.

Many times however I'll peg a small cylindrical shaped floater within 6" of my hook...

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