Tybo Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 The higher degree in dead raise,the further the bow travels down the boat. to allow for this high degree,you must deepen the hull before mid-ship to allow for the right degree of curvature. With this done now, using the trim and the right drive and throttle. In rough seas you will be able to get the hull level. Which then the lowest part of the bow will strike the wave at tremendous force. Going to use physics here.Send the bow up and a smooth flow of water down the Stearn. Now this is where chimes come in.They prevent the stern from slipping.At the rear of the boat you will find a power plate at the end of the hull. This a flat at the end of the keel to counter-react the the bow lift. Now you have the throttles and the trims working great. The boat is preforming how it should. spending more time in the air then the water. Most aluminum fishing boats use a reverse chime hull to make it stable. Like I said, apples to kumquats.
Billy Bob Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 http://www.typhoonboats.com.au/Boat%20design.htm
POLLIWOGG Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 OK Tybo I understand where you're coming from now it now. My boat isn't flat at the end of the keel but rounded out at a fairly large radios, I always wondered why, now I know , Thanks Tybo.
Joey Posted May 10, 2009 Report Posted May 10, 2009 http://www.typhoonboats.com.au/Boat%20design.htm Well that whole article is rife with typos. Not sure I'd take any of it as gospel!!!
Tybo Posted May 10, 2009 Report Posted May 10, 2009 I was once told, You can always tell the fastest guy. Fore he's the one thats all most out of control. In the boating world. The fastest boat is the guy how has perfect control. There is many different styles of deep vees. Eg: Donzi and cigarette hulls use to dominate off-shore racing. Reggie Fountain came out with a new hull design and He the one that figured he could get more air under the hull.Then it was his turn to dominate.(Reggie also pilot and work his throttles). But soon after this hull design wouldn't go any fast. Along came Stephen Steppe. He the one that that figured out that if you notch the hull. This would create a vortex giving the hull more lift.Hence the stepped hull. Which give a performance deep vees the high speeds. If you take the same design. Put it on a 45 foot 20 foot beam boat, you will get a very smooth ride. The two best hull designs on aluminum fishing boats are Lund's pro-v and the alumacraft trophy. Thees two hull try to give you the best of both worlds. The bow is a true deep vee where the Stern is some what a reverse chime for hole shot and a stable ride at top end.
River Rat Posted May 10, 2009 Report Posted May 10, 2009 I have a Fisher Modified V alminium....all welded, no wood anywhere. I researched and sought out this particular boat because I wanted a bass boat style, but aluminum not glass. I absolutely pound this boat with extream predjudice and a regular basis. Busting ice, bashing stumps...back country bush fishing with push poles and gas masks! I was on Rice today since sun up and the 52 inch shaft of my 80lb Maxpro was out of the water more than it was in.....rough ride ? kinda.....but I'm a big boy, I can take it. I do alot of camping, shore banging, swamp jumping, slop fishing and som of the launches I use are not glass friendly. Many of the gravel roads I travel to get to these lakes would sand blast a gel coat clean off......you should see my trailer! Glass is pretty.....glass is fast....two things that are low on my list of priorities for now. Idealy, I would love a 20ft glass boat also for bigger water but I wouldn't give up the alminum. RR
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