Jump to content

Ford Explorer Problem


steverowbotham

Recommended Posts

I'm almost happy to take on the "Exploder" name lately.

 

I have a 1998 Ford Explorer, 292,000km (i tow the boat a lot haha)

 

LAst night, she started fine, then everytime I take my foot off the accelerator, she would stall and the battery light would come up. When I touch the accelerator, my headlights get brighter even.

 

Is this the alternator? Air filter? Gaskets?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve it can be tricky to diagnose without verifying but from what you are saying it's probably your alternator.

It looks like only a portion of it is charging. There are 3 windings inside and one is likely open circuit.

when you rev up the engine the other two are capable of bring the voltage up enough to turn out the battery light.

 

I think I have misread as well. Did it stall first and then the battery light come on?

Edited by Bernie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you crank it over to start does it seem to crank slowly?

If your battery was good the voltage should stay at least 12.5 volts. If the alternator was working properly it should maintain voltage and not stall.

It's possible if the battery is in poor condition it may have overloaded the alternator and burned out a winding.

Still need more info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my battery gage only has and H and an L, no numbers, so for voltage, I dont know. It goes right down to the L then stalls.

 

I just went out to check it, she started and stalled, i started it again, gave it some gas this time, it revved up and idled just fine, battery gage held fine, and she drove fine. started her a bunch and seems fine, but the check engine light is on. So I dont know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In order to find out why the engine is stalling you need to check for computer codes and vacuum leaks. The electrical system needs to be in good shape before pulling computer codes so that means a battery voltage test with a good voltmeter and making sure that all connections are clean with proper grounds as a first step.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By any chance has your alternator belt been squealing lately? It's possible in the wet weather that your belt was slipping. The automatic belt tensioner on these models were susceptible to siezing and allowing a loose belt.

 

 

Wild. Vacuum leaks usually cause high rough idle. There are still several things that it could be ..I'M just trying to hit the common ones first.

 

I don't think it's an alternator issue now.

Edited by Bernie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

By any chance has your alternator belt been squealing lately? It's possible in the wet weather that your belt was slipping. The automatic belt tensioner on these models were susceptible to siezing and allowing a loose belt.

Wild. Vacuum leaks usually cause high rough idle. There are still several things that it could be ..I'M just trying to hit the common ones first.

 

I don't think it's an alternator issue now.

 

The o2 or IAC will compensate for a vacuum leak, but before diagnosing the mechanical and electrical needs to be in good shape and we need to know what engine of course ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve whatever it is/was I'm almost sure it the problem is moisture related. Get that belt tensioner checked. The voltage should not have dropped out if the engine continued running. The starter did continue to crank the engine so it must have decent reserve capability. If the alternator was pooched it would not have came back up at idle. So that only leaves me the wet/loose belt theory. Shoot me a PM if you need any more help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Topics

    Popular Topics

    Upcoming Events


×
×
  • Create New...