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fly reel


drwxr

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long story short, my friend gave away a Royal Coachman Fly Reel. i know its not the best reel, but since i dont fly fish, where can i use it ?

now im still not a pro fisherman, so maybe i dont understand, but im little confused why everyone talks about fly reels as they are some big deal ? and so expensive???

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long story short, my friend gave away a Royal Coachman Fly Reel. i know its not the best reel, but since i dont fly fish, where can i use it ?

now im still not a pro fisherman, so maybe i dont understand, but im little confused why everyone talks about fly reels as they are some big deal ? and so expensive???

 

 

Not sure but you may be confusing fly reel with "float reel".

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they can get expensive depending on the type, some are better then others or made of different material or just work better. i dont know myself which is best but have fun with it! the nice fly reels I've seen at Bass Pro Shops are always $50+

 

here's what wikipedia says..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fly_fishing#Fly_reels

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Yo!!

 

You should be able to find some fun with that!!

 

First, you'll need to decide what weight of line the reel is made for. The weight has nothing to do with lb test like mono/fluoro, but is based on a system used to determine balance in a fly fishing outfit. Then, you need to get a rod that matches the line weight. Likely, you'll want line which the package says: 6wt WF floating line. Couple that with a 6wt rod of your choice and your off to the races!! Just take it into your local fishing/fly shop and they should be able to help you out......just be warned......it is addictive!!

 

Dave

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long story short, my friend gave away a Royal Coachman Fly Reel. i know its not the best reel, but since i dont fly fish, where can i use it ?

now im still not a pro fisherman, so maybe i dont understand, but im little confused why everyone talks about fly reels as they are some big deal ? and so expensive???

 

 

Yes...that is a decent fly reel. There should be a number somewhere on it saying if it's for 4 to 5 weight line or 7 to 8 weight line etc. Very often the model number has the line size in it's number.

 

Yes, some fly reels can get very expensive. The very expensive reels are expensive due to the materials they are made of (bearings, brakes, gears etc) (precision machined very strong and rigid alloy metals). These reels are usually made as light as possible yet as strong and rugged as possible with strong yet very smooth breaking systems that can take years of punishment from very strong, fast fish. An Atlantic salmon can actually burn up the brakes or seize the bearings on a cheap reel. Expensive fly reels often have a gear system that makes the spool turn 4 or 5 times faster than the handle is turned. This is great when the fish is zooming towards the angler and he has to quickly reel in a lot of loose line. Then there is the prestige of owning an expensive outfit.

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Model # CR-2102

Spool Diameter 3

Spool Width 3/4"

Reel Weight 6.3 oz.

Fly Line Weights 5, 6, 7

Fly Line Backing 70 Yd. 20 lb.

 

 

 

 

what line and rod would be good if i decide to begin. would be interesting to try it out but i dont want to spend alot since its not something im into right now.

Edited by drwxr
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I suggest a decent 9 foot, 2 piece, 7 to 8 weight rod and a 7 WF (weight forward) floating line.

 

Buy the best line you can find. I like the Scientific Angler lines which are not too soft nor too stiff.

 

Learn to make your own tapered leaders with real leader material.

 

First of all, tie a very short piece of leader material using a nail knot to the end of the fly line. Then tie a perfection knot on the end of this short piece of leader material. You should end up with a loop that is about 2 inches from the end of your fly line.

 

I like to make my tapered leaders this way; 20 lb test, then 15 lb test which is 60% shorter than the 20 lb test, then 10 lb test which is 60% shorter than the 15 lb test, then 10 lb test which is 60% shorter than the 15 lb test, then 6 lb test which is 60% shorter than the 10 lb test and then finish with a 4 lb tippet of 24 inches long.

 

I tie a perfection loop to the large end of the fly leader. This way, you can join the leader to the fly line using the 2 loops. Push the loop from the fly line through the loop in the leader. Take the end of the tippet and push it through the loop at the end of the fly line. Pull the rest of the leader through the loop at the end of the fly line.

 

Make more leaders of different lengths and strengths for different fly sizes and weather conditions. Leaders for dry flies vary from 7 feet to 18 feet long and from 10 lb test to 3/4 lb test. In calm conditions with small flies, I often use 14 foot leaders with tippets of 1 lb test.

 

For fishing weighted nymphes or trolling large streamers, you can use leaders as short as 3 to 5 feet.

 

When fishing deeper water, you can buy fly lines with sinking tips or fly lines that completely sink. You can even choose the sink rate of the sinking lines.

 

For short distance work (streams or very small ponds), a double tapered line works great for the shorter casts. Weight forward lines start to work great when you have about 30 feet of fly line out past the rod tip. This is quite long when you already have your arm, a 9 foot rod, 30 feet of WF line and a 10 foot leader.

 

Doing a bit of reading about fly fishing is an excellent idea. There is lots of free reading on the internet.

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l would go with the 7-8 it will let you fish for a verity like Bass> Pike > Carp > Big Trout and Salmon. Just remember for some of the larger ones the rod will be at its limit so be gentle... Most of all have Fun... from experience when practicing use wool on the end and not a hook... you really have to hold the ear lobe tight when you have to remove the hook... lol Peace Ken

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thanks everyone and especially Dabluz, not alot of fishermen tell their secrets these days.

 

I told no secrets. All this stuff I learned through reading before computers were available to the general public. I think my leader recipe was invented by a guy called Ritz.

 

At first, it looks hard as to what the exact lengths of each segment of a 9 foot tapered leader (the most popular) should be but start out with the first segment at 48 inches and work from there....on paper. You will end up with a bunch of arithmique results to make different leaders.

 

When tying the leaders and the segments get down to 8 or 10 inches....let the rest of the segments stay at that length until you get to the tippet.

 

When you tippet wears down, just replace the tippet. That's where the economy really kicks in.

 

I forgot to say that you join each segment with a blood knot.

 

Make a nice variety of leaders, mark each according to it's length and tippet size then place them in small plastic bags or a leader wallet.

 

Use a George Harvey knot to tie the flies to your tippet.

 

Buy some grease type fly flottant like "Gink's". Apply the Gink's to the floating fly and to the leader.....starting at the nail knot all the way to the knot which attaches the tippet to the leader. Your fly will float for days.

 

I often fish with a muddler minnow that I make with a body of deer hair tied parallel to the hook shank instead of the original recipe for the body . I cast it out and often let it sit there while I'm eating a sandwich. Keep one hand on the rod though. You are allowed to twitch it every now and then but if you do, grip the rod a bit harder otherwise you risk that a trout takes off with it.

Edited by Dabluz
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