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Question about Rod characteristics...


mikeymikey

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Hello.

 

I am just wondering few things about Spinning Rod characteristics.

 

How are the power rating, line and lure weight work on a rod?

 

For example,

I am looking at a Berkley Series 1 9'0" Medium rod with line rating 6-10lb.

versus

Browning Six Rivers Salmon Rod 8'6" Medium Heavy with line rating 6-17lb lure weight 1/4-5/8

versus

Fenwick 9'0 Medium with line rating 10-25lb lure weight 3/8-1oz

 

What makes these Medium rod so different in characteristics on recommended line & lure weight ?

Also, what does these line rating really mean? what if I use something less or heavier line? what kind of effect will it have ? Is it the actual lb. or line diameter? If rod has line rating of 6-10lb. can I use 40lb PowerPro? which has mono diameter almost equaling 10lb ? Is this how it works?

 

What allows Fenwick medium rod to be able to use heavier line than Browning's Medium- Heavy rod?

I always thought that More power the rod, heavier the line and heavier lure can be used? Isnt' that why musky rods are Heavy or Extra Heavy and allow for use of heavy lures?

 

I would really appreciate some insight on these question and your additional inputs.

Thank you!

 

 

 

PS. I am actually eye'ing of purchasing that Fenwick HMXS90M-2 9'0" Medium Rod. Any experiences?

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IMHO the "Light, Medium, Heavy" designations are almost useless for comparing rods from different manufacturers. There are so many other variables in rod flex that 2 mediums can have completly different characteristics.

 

For me, the question is: How fast is the tip, and how much backbone does the rod have? For example, an Ugly Stick has a super slow tip (lots of flex, very little sensitivity) and lots of backbone (the ability to pull lots of weight when the rod is flexed). A Fenwick AVS MF has a very fast tip and still has lots of backbone, but I would rather land a big musky on the Ugly Stick than the Fenwick. These are both Medium rated rods, but have completly different feels.

 

Line rating is another red herring, especially with braids. The best way to compare lines, in terms of handling characteristics, is by diameter.

 

The lure rating, I think, has to do with the rods ability to throw that weight lure with some distance (low end rating) and then fish it without overpowering the tip (upper weight range). There is some variability there as well, since a 1/4 oz jig will load the rod way less than a 1/4 oz, deep-diving crankbait.

 

If I were going by the manufacturers specs, I would choose the rod for the weight of the lures I was going to throw with it, then match the line to your presentation needs.

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Let's cut through the crap here. The brand means nothing...most of these rods come out of a couple of plants in China or Korea.

I think these could be called Steelhead rods. They are soft in the tip and sturdy in the butt.

My first question is, "Do you want a steelhead rod?" In my opinion they don't cast very well.

I can help you with the answers to your other questions, but first I need to know how much you know about what your talking about. If you don't want to talk on the open board, e-mail me.

Garry2r's

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I know Shimano labels Power & Action rating on the rod itself but other brands usually only label Power rating. So how can I figure out what type of action rating a rod have?

 

Load the road - gently - and see how it bends. A slow-action rod will bend consistently right through to the butt, medium-action will bend into the middle of the blank and a fast-tip rod will only bend in the upper-third of the blank.

 

Fenwick describes the action of their rods in a code: MHF means it's a Medium Heavy, Fast action blank. I fish Fenwicks and have had good luck with them: maybe just lucky.

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Sorry about that one...grin...I was bottling wine last night, perhaps I did too much testing...

What I meant to say was, lower and mid-priced rods aren't generally made by the companies who's name is on the label, they are built in China or Korea, where labour is cheaper. It's probably safe to say that any rod under about $100.00 was built in the third world. Therefore whether it says Bass Pro, Browning, Rapala or even Shimano there's a chance that any two lower priced rods started out in the same plant in Asia. When shopping for an inexpensive rod I would look more at the hardware rather than who's brand it is. If your getting Fuji guides and reel seat that's a fairly good indication that your looking at a good quality rod.

-The recommended line weight on most rods is for mono, so if your using braid you'll need to think in terms of equivalent diameters.

-Lure weight is the range of weights that will "work" the rod without under or over loading it. I remember buying a Musky rod off of Lew a few years ago. The rod was rated for 1-4 ounces...It was early in the season and I was using a lot of 3/8 ounce spinnerbaits at the time. I wore myself out trying to throw them with that stiff rod and soon put it away. Later in the season I tried it again using a Sledge. Now the rod was a joy to cast, because the heavy bait worked the rod.

-The "action" component of the label is pretty vague...Each brand seems to have their own ideas about what medium, medium-heavy and heavy is and what Fast, Medium and Slow action means. I like the suggestion about flexing the rod to get an idea what the action is.

Traditionally, spinning rods have a fast action, all the bend is in the tip area. This makes it easy to throw small baits like a Mepp's etc. What I call Steelhead rods have a slower more parabolic action, like a fly rod, because they're designed to fish roe bags or yarn flies on very light leaders. A fast tip might snap the bait right off. The slow action also shock absorbs the light leader against the gyrations of a heavy fish. The problem with using them as an all around rod is they tend to lob the bait out there, so they don't cast as far as the fast action rods do.

Garry2r's

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