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what approximate year is this Johnson Seahorse (28HP)


ilario

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After 1970 model numbers include the HP, as in J33ELUTa.

J=Johnson

33=HP

E=electric start

L=long (20") shaft

UT=year code (see below)

a=production run

 

The year code uses the letters of the word, "INTRODUCES" to represent the digits 1-0. So the UT would be 73.

 

I N T R O D U C E S

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

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this is what the seller can find:

 

RXEL-100

 

and the following numbers below this: 346 445

 

Your motor is a 1962 model. As kevin stated the RX-10 represents the year. The EL & extra 0 relate to variations (electric starter, shaft length ect.) of the motor.

 

Best Wishes: Rick

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Can't believe I missed this one.

 

1962 Johnson 28 hp electric start, long shaft as already stated. It takes a 24:1 fuel mix using regular 87 octane gas and TC-W3 outboard motor oil. Some people do run them at 50:1, but they are taking their chances. OMC didn't approve the use of 50:1 until 1964 when they switched to roller bearings in their motors. 50:1 is ok at troll, but the bearings require more lube at WOT. At 24:1 it will be smokey until its warmed up. I use synthetic oil (Amsoil HPI) and it almost eliminates the smoke, oily sheen and is biodegradable.

 

What kind of handle are you looking for? If you are looking for a tiller and that motor didn't come with one then you will have to get a new steering bracket as well as a tiller handle. Lots of parts around for those motors. You just have to find them. I hear there is an "outboard motor graveyard" north of Barrie, but I have yet to meet anyone that knows where it is. If you find out let me know.

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Can't believe I missed this one.

 

1962 Johnson 28 hp electric start, long shaft as already stated. It takes a 24:1 fuel mix using regular 87 octane gas and TC-W3 outboard motor oil. Some people do run them at 50:1, but they are taking their chances. OMC didn't approve the use of 50:1 until 1964 when they switched to roller bearings in their motors. 50:1 is ok at troll, but the bearings require more lube at WOT. At 24:1 it will be smokey until its warmed up. I use synthetic oil (Amsoil HPI) and it almost eliminates the smoke, oily sheen and is biodegradable.

 

What kind of handle are you looking for? If you are looking for a tiller and that motor didn't come with one then you will have to get a new steering bracket as well as a tiller handle. Lots of parts around for those motors. You just have to find them. I hear there is an "outboard motor graveyard" north of Barrie, but I have yet to meet anyone that knows where it is. If you find out let me know.

 

Thanks fellas...

 

I picked it up last night. It's a big motor. Got it for a good deal (trade). 24:1? Geez, I had no idea...that things going to eat up oil... Is the TC-W3 lower unit gear oil. Where do you buy Amsoil? I think I saw it at CTC.

 

I will require a handle. It has manual start option and I want to operate it as a tiller.

 

 

If anyone can direct me to a good, HONEST marine mechanic, I'd appreciate it. Misfish recommended soemone in Barrie but the guy is going in for sugery this week and will be out of commission for several weeks.

 

I'm in Vaughan but I'm willing to drive a bit.. \

 

As for the tiller handle, looks like I'll have to make a few changes there if the thing requires a new bracket. It has a small lever that seems to double as a throttle. Slow, start and fast are indicated next to the lever.

 

It hsn't been started in 2 years... i have no clue of the history. I drained the lower unit and oil was dirty but no water intrusion.

 

Hope soemone can help me out!! thanks

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TC-W3 is the lastest standard for 2 stroke outboard motor oil. Most outboard motor oil is TC-W3 rated, but some low quality cheap oil isn't. Always make sure the oil you use in any 2 stroke outboard meets or exceeds this rating. I only recently started using Amsoil. I'm going to try regular synthetic next. It should be about the same. You can get Amsoil at CTC.

 

To convert your motor to tiller steer you will (probably) need to replace the entire steering bracket. Its not hard, but it will require you to completely dismantle the motor. You will have to remove the powerhead and lower unit from the leg (midsection). The manual throttle control on the motor is only there for manual starting and emergencies. It would be difficult (at best) to rig a tiller with throttle control without the OEM parts. With that said, it may be possible to just remove the cap that holds the throttle lever on the steering bracket and bolt on the tiller handle from an OMC of that size and vintage. However, you would either need to have the parts manuals or the actual parts in front of you to know for sure. I think it may be possible, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.

 

Did it come with the optional generator? I think that option came out around 1962.

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