ch312

i guess i'm the only one that doesn't like seeing females sitting on a counter top that are so full of eggs they're about to explode. the catching was obviously good, why not release the big spawners and stick to keeping eaters? there's a reason jumbo's are getting harder and harder to find... that said, nice haul

keep in mind that batteries are just like everything else in that you get what you pay for and opting for the cheapest brand often results in cursing, swearing, and headaches in the future. but, i guess it's not really an issue if you have a pull start on your ATV. buy and use a battery tender. they keep your battery in optimal condition and can even bring bad batteries back to life. i believe the JR model is less than $40 and is money very well spent.

www.uship. com

exactly like i said. jealousy brings out the evil in some people. do you guys honestly believe that a billionaire would hire some joe schmoe lawyers for this purchase? odds are he has a team of expert lawyers that went over every single detail with a fine tooth comb to make sure his ass was covered. on top of that, the government gave him permission to block access so i'll assume he bought the road too. but yeah, a few OFNer's are certainly more informed the article states that he enlarged the size of the lake by flooding his land before stocking it, so i'll assume more legal mumbo jumbo comes into play under these circumstances. therefore, any part of that water body outside of the original lake was created by him making him the owner, no? correct me if im wrong, but if a marina excavates channels on a lake aren't they deemed the owners of said water/channels and can post no trespassing? that said, how many of you would allow the public to have unrestricted access to your piece of paradise? he's living the life that we can only dream about. you're all getting worked up about an issue that has nothing to do with any of us. as someone else mentioned, why not worry about issues closer to home?

they're jealous. nothing more, nothing less.

as promised... it sits perfectly level and touches the ground with weight on the ball. someone else built it, but that's my paint job

the front yard has been 100% green for over a week and ive cut the grass 3 times in the last couple weeks and it'll be due again this weekend. really sucks as i'm not a fan of grass. unfortunately, it won't be long and it'll be back to mowing the lawn twice a week. any ideas how to get it to slow down some? seriously.

i just got a homemade one with my boat that was built very well and works great. ill post some pics tomorrow.

well, you'll have to wait until august or september when my new slug gun will be in my safe. i hunt quite a bit for pretty much everything out there, so i didn't like having my shotgun dedicated to deer for 2 weeks every season (shoot a few days before the season and season lasts 1 week). therefore, i'm switching to a dedicated slug gun. many reports of 4" groups at 200 yards from savage and NEF shooters while i'll probably never shoot a deer past 100 yards, i have zero problems paying for accuracy and range. i'm hoping i'm not going to regret selling my 870 combo that produced those purdy little 2" center to center groups at 125 yards... considering i sent a few hundred sabots down that tube, i'm fully aware of how i'd do at those ranges and it's only gonna get better once i get the new gun dialed in. the fact is, you're arguing when you clearly have very little experience with shooting different slug guns and your statements reflect that. i could care less how often you shoot or what you shoot, we're talking specifically about shooting sabot slugs. go send 3-400 sabots of all the major brands you can find and it'll open your eyes as to what a properly matched combo is capable of. sure it's expensive, but shooting them is a hoot. i really don't understand why you're so full of doubt when i posted the numbers for you. just because you're not comfortable or capable of doing something it doesn't mean everyone else is the same. while i'm against long range hunting (500 yards+) and can't shoot that good, there's other people out there with machine like precision that can do it all day. just like some can accurately shoot slugs at 200 yards, while others can't.

im not trying to start a conflict here, but if you're getting a bruised shoulder from shooting you need to work on shooting form and possibly get your stock modified to fit you properly. not only will it help your body absorb recoil better, you'll often be a more confident and accurate shooter. as for cost of slugs. considering most guns are close to zero after removing and remounting the scope and rifled barrel, it should only take a box to get back on zero and another box to make sure everything is proper. so, figure 2-3 boxes for the average guy shooting average distances. considering how much most hunters spend on gear, tags, gas, etc, $50-60 for 3 boxes of premium ammo isnt very expensive at all. why do people spend hundreds on a nice fishing rod when an el cheapo from canada tire will work? it's the exact same thing...people pay a premium for performance. rifles are much cheaper, but around here we're limited to muzzleloaders and shotguns for deer. therefore, the more economical choice is a shotgun with rifled barrel.

your post so full of fail going by your train of thought you need a finely tuned rifle to shoot at 200 yards. i guess you arent aware that $100 milsurps, new rifles with a whopping $300 price tag, and even the lowly 22lr (mainly prairie dogs) is used by some hunters at these ranges. i guess you're also unaware of people successfully taking deer at these ranges with the slower and less powerful 20 gauge? btw...you might want to have a clue what you're talking about before labeling yourself the next craig boddington. winchester xp3 3" sabot throws a 300gr slug at 2000 fps with 7.3" drop at 175 yards. at 200 yards its still traveling 1380fps with 1260ft/lbs of energy and 10.5" drop. considering 7-800ft/lbs is the minimum recommendation for deer sized game, you're good to go. a 10mph crosswind makes it drift 11". winchester 3" partition gold is even better at 200 yards. 1400fps, 1656 ft/lbs of energy, 11" drop, and 10" drift at 10mph. thats assuming you're using a 100 yard zero. but, for these ranges a 150 yard zero would be much better as the drop at 200 yards will be 6-7" and 2-3" high at 90-100 yards. if you arent capable of compensating for a 6" drop or 10" drift, then i'll agree that you shouldn't be shooting at longer ranges. your "estimated" 15" drop and 12" drift is a far cry from 6" drop and 10" drift. the guns are capable. the ammo is definitely capable. the last part of the equation is the hunter. that said, i havent shot a deer past 100 yards because i prefer to get close. BUT, to come on here claiming that modern shotguns and ammo arent capable of 200 yard shots is absurd. like i said, get with the times. im not talking about using grandpas smooth bore with rifled slugs here. i'm talking a modern shotgun, fully rifled barrel, your preferred scope, and premium ammo. 2.5x scopes aren't good enough, so you have to use a rifle scope with lower eye relief? what on earth are you talking about? there are multiple 1.75-4x, 2-7x, 3-9x shotgun scopes available with longer eye relief for shotguns. as for the weight differences. you're right, you shouldn't go there. i've shot many 3" and 3 1/2" guns and the weight difference is so minimal it isnt even noticeable while you're holding it. 3" rem 870 express 28" barrel 7 1/2 lbs 3.5" rem 870 express super mag 28" barrel 7 1/2 lbs 3" mossberg 500 7 1/2 lbs 3.5" mossberg 835 7 1/2 lbs just to clarify, exactly what do you consider to be MUCH heavier? like i said, you're going by technology or what you were taught 20 years ago...

does buying a 3.5" gun mean you always need to use the more expensive bigger shells? i dont think so. but, its nice having the extra capacity they provide when using buckshot, steel, and turkey loads. basically, its nice having the extra pellet count when you need it. a 2 3/4" gun can do anything a 3 1/2" gun can, but the bigger shell often produces superior patterns. 175-200 yards should never be attempted with a shotgun by anyone and only a fine tuned rifle is capable of those ranges? new to firearms, are we?

lmao... so, just how many extra ounces do you consider MUCH heavier? you might not be capable of shooting at those ranges, but many are. a sabot properly matched to your gun is more than capable at those ranges. anyone disagreing with that is stuck in the rifled slug/smoothbore

another 870 fan here, but i did buy mine about 8 years ago or so. i highly recommend you buy an older 870 that's in great shape (relatively easy to find) as scatterguns simply get better with use. mine has been submerged in mud and water, dropped in sand and dirt, and banged off many trees without a single problem. with an 870 you'll have the most options for aftermarket accessories, easy access to parts, and tons of how-to's online if you're going to mod it. 3" vs 3 1/2"? considering the price difference is so minimal it makes little sense to choose the 3" over the 3 1/2" chamber. weight and size of both guns is the same. patterning your shotgun is huge and finding the load your gun likes is very important so a 3 1/2" chamber allows many more options. shell A in 3" may shoot better than shell A in 3 1/2", but shell B in 3 1/2" may throw much tighter patterns than the same shell in 3". best to pay a tiny increase in price now rather than buying a 3" gun and wishing you had the 3 1/2". while the 20 gauge is a great gun and can be used for the same critters as the 12 gauge, the 12 gauge is better in all departments. ammo options, increased range, and significantly more pellets makes the 12 gauge better for most. lastly, consider purchasing a rifled barrel combo. you'll get a smooth bore with your gun for shot/rifled slugs as well as a fully rifled barrel which permits the use of sabot slugs. with this combo you'll have everything from squirrels to moose covered and your equipment will be capable of taking deer out to 175-200 yards IF you find the sabots your gun likes. mine preferred 2 3/4" copper solids which would make nice little 3" outside to outside (center to center = 2"?) groups at 125 yards with a scope off a solid rest.

i hooked a wire direct and the fuel gauge did the same thing. much be a bad sending unit? i looked it up online and the part comes up as a high water alarm. its a WEMA 001305 is there a brand that makes more reliable units?

but, the tests i did on the gauge says the gauge is fine too i just found online that there's 3 switches on the back of the gauge. maybe it was just never set properly in the first place? i'm going to try in the morning. ill try anything after finding a sending unit online for $130

i finally located the screws that were countersunk nearly right through the floor and removed it to access the sending unit. -disconnecting the sending wire puts the gauge to zero -bridge ground to sending terminals on gauge puts the gauge to full -my meter (ohms) on sending unit wires says its working properly. full = 35ohms and empty = 245ohms. the ohms change smoothly as i slide the float up and down -jumper wires directly from gauge to sending unit changes nothing i then held the float and slid it up and down and the gauge moved from full line to 1/4" past full line. judging by what ive read online everything seems to be working properly. could it be a ground issue? just go and buy a new sending unit?

i easily located the fuel tank yesterday, but i havent a clue how to access it. when i remove the drain in the floor i can see something on top of the tank, but there's such little clearance between the tank and the floor that removing the unit would be impossible. plus, the drain is only a 2" hole and 6-8" to the rear of the sending unit. i'm 90% sure this is the sending unit. i just looked for a half hour and can't figure out where to begin when it comes to lifting up the deck. there is a 16" section that runs down the middle of the boat directly over the tank which would lead me to believe this section is removable, but i cant figure out if or how it comes up. im a pretty handy guy, but i'm stumped worst case ill just bust out the 3" hole saw and cut an access hole directly above the unit and go buy a deck plate... the gauge always reads full when i turn the key. how can i test the gauge and sending unit?

where the heck is the fuel sending unit on a g3 angler v165 and how do you get to it? i searched all over the boat and online for an hour with zero success.

one of my riggers has a broken line counter spring so i went online to find a replacement. apparently this is rather common as they have a habit of falling off and getting caught somewhere before being stretched out. rather than purchasing new ones and waiting for it to happen again, i was wondering if there's something people have been using instead of these springs. i was thinking a tight rubber band would work, but the sun would probably trash one in no time. any ideas other than carrying spare springs? mod it to prevent the springs from coming off in the first place?

well, its a slight upgrade from my little 14ft tinner. she's sitting in my driveway after making the trek to sudbury to pick er up for $2k less than asking price. sorry to any OFC members that were checking it out on kijiji ive been shopping since last summer, but i always wait until i find the exact thing i want before buying which has turned out great for my other big money items. hopefully the boat follows suit 2006 yamaha g3 v165f yamaha 90hp 4 stroke w/ stainless and oem props full enclosure storage/travel cover 2 fish finders 2 big jon riggers with rods, bslls, flashers trolling plate 4 yamaha life jackets and all safety gear bow protector for towing 3 batteries pretty much loaded...

he just sent pics of original bill from dealer with previous owners name on it and the current vessel license showing it was sold to the current owner. so sinker, if i run into trouble ill be expecting YOU to sort it out fully loaded g3 165f :thumbsup_anim:

im concerned about the vessel license being filled out and never actually being transferred into his name. what is the vessel license place going to say when i walk in with the vessel license showing that someone else is buying the boat (on paper)? or will a bill of sale from the current owner be good enough? theres no risk of this being a stolen boat? is it legal to sell a boat thats currently in the previous owners name? how do i find out if theres liens against it?

finally found a boat i want and just called before heading out the door. but, he just informed me that the boat is still in the previous owners name while the trailer is in the current owners name. he says the previous owner signed the back of the vessel license and the current owner filled in his information. then he mailed it to the vessel license place but they returned it due to missing information so he never bothered transfering the vessel license to his name. he says he has the paperwork the original owner got when he bought the boat new and is good friends with the previous owner. the boat is 4 hours away so its not like i can just go see buddy if a problem arises. what should i do?

call me crazy, but i had a good feed of long point bluegill this week and it was even better than simcoe perch....