irishfield

I know some guy that could even be talked into flying in with parts and tools.... for a steak and a beer!!

Exactly... many are just pissed because it's an American company trying to make money. If it was a Canadian company that had been smart enough to buy up the land.. currently run the largest potato farm in the country, with the anticipation of getting at limestone, they'd be happy.

There is safer ice closer to home Rob. 10" on the Sound

Very nice Kevin!!! was -21C this morning here.. perfect day for fishing (although we caught nadda!)

About an hour and 45 minutes.

Not a problem.. as long as I have a clear area to land.. circle around and park back in my tracks I'll be fine. We'll have to see what the weather does and go from there. 2hr-45 by truck... 1hr-10 by air.. hmmm.

Wet snow not an issue.. if it has numerous inches of water under it, could be another story.. but there'll be lots of guys there to dig/pack and push! LOL

Okay... it might get a little exciting if I line up and try to land on that street!!

GPS coords of the location, just in case it's a nice sunny day and I can "drop" in.

You love me.. then you insult the boat I drive! What can I say... you can't successfully/consistently weld aluminum under .100... even with a robot. Them's the facts!

Say what? There's 13,500 rivets in my floats (that don't leak)... and they also pressurize the "aluminum tubes" that soar thru the skies at 36,000 feet you know! Those pressurization cycles are harder on things than any lake pounding will give.

Provided that Crestliner isn't providing the same USELESS lifetime warranty that Tracker does when it comes to guaranteing (sp) their "welded hulls". Tracker only guarantees the weld it self.. so when it cracks right beside it (where ANY weld does aluminum or steel) they tell you to go pound salt. Mike.. Dave covered my reply... welding weakens the material beside the weld, and there is no way of knowing it happened, well..until it cracks open. Lew had a GREAT life out of his Crestliner and now Jim and the boys are enjoying it as well. Haven't heard any real horror stories on Crestliners but I could write a book on Trackers.. so maybe Crestliner/Brunswick have put a little more thought into how things are formed, welded and where things are braced to take the loads. Welding of aluminum itself... I have no issues on things OVER .100 thickness.. like Stanley's with nothing thinner than .125 in their construction. BTW.. we're riveting boats in Temagami.. starting next week !

I was just surprised that a newbie dug up a 4 year + old post to take a shot at a Musky charter guy! ..well maybe not that surprised.. but..

Well I'd take the riveted over the welded 9 times out of 10, but you knew that already..... but which ever boat has the layout that you like the most is the way I'd head... In either case... the kids won't be happy with 60Hp when they decide they'd like to wakeboard!

Once you have a shop ceiling with galvinized "roofing" on it... you'll never do it any other way. FREE light !

No spell check here.. that I can find at least... and the brunt of many jokes around here for some. Welcome aboard, some great looking inventions on your site. Why I linked direct to the Youtube video address so all could see your hut jacks and such easily.

Was it choked??

Well don't tell everyone Randy.. for gawd sakes! Everyone will want some protein in their next KFC order now...

I'm sure it's a good product used in the right circumstances cosmos. I wouldn't want to be painting a boat with rattle cans though. I'm a firm believer in following a paint system from start to finish. That means using a manufactures complete system from start to finish. Not one companies primer.. anothers paint.

Heat gun the decals off.. clean it.. scuff it and shoot some new paint where needed. If it doesn't go to bare spots I don't know what you need if any primer at all.. I don't paint I just deliver my stuff to the local shop and go pick it up! lol. PPG does have a self etch primer for aluminum though... so you use their entire system. Any GOOD paint shop knows what to do with aluminum these days with it on so many cars.

All I can say is I did you a favour and saved the intent of your post... go back and read the rules of "engagement" to join the forum. No linking to other forums and especially businesses, especially when you're a brand new member. I see though that the mods where kind.. they left your website address in your post so that anyone can go check it out still!

Sad that a joke post turns to this.. it's not even February yet or maybe that's it. Lakers aren't open and folks can't get to the whitie grounds without a boat!

Remember the top coat is only as good as what's underneath it! If the old paint is "loose" in anyway the top coat will come off as well... so I'd be putting the aluminum compatible stripper to it and then after throughly cleaning a self etch primer and PPG top coat. If you have a good base.. sure scuff and top it. Pending how old a Lund.. it's probably PPG Concept or the lastest version of same. Find a shop with the PPG paint rail to mix for you or just swing in with the boat and have them shoot it... with paint that is.