NANUK

Don't know where you are located, but in GTA, The Rigging Shop in Scarborough and West Marine @ Queens Quay.

19th floor.

Personally I would get the Fitter 2 first and then go there and make some serious dough, but that's just me...and I am not 21, so if you want to go and give it a try, I would say, go for it. lots of jobs in Alberta for sure BUT the cost of living is very high too. try renting a 1 bedroom apartment in Fort McMurry or Edmonton.....if you can find one. Good Luck.

I am sure most folks know this but for those who don't, This is NOT "The Spring Fishing Show" we used to have in February! The Spring Fishing Show has been sold/merged in to "The Sportsman Show"(which will be in March) This is a brand new show called "Fishing & Boat Show" (First year) it was a good show IMO, the 3 hour long salmon seminar was great, all 4 speakers were very knowledgeable and I learnt a lot today about different techniques of salmon fishing. when it comes to fishing I don't think you can ever stop learning and "know it all" (and I don't care if you have developed gills from being on the water for so long) kudos to the organizers who I think did a great job and I hope this show will grow much bigger in years to come.

Camp Crystal Lake has NOT been opened in the last 20 years.

BPS Gore-Tex is good stuff, Cabelas guide series is one of the best out there as well. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/template...r&noImage=0

I think I know the manufacturer you are talking about, they are known for their "BAD BATCH OF LINE" I would use a different manufacturer's product but will notify them in my last and final letter.

I thought you were talking about something of this sort http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Os1TiRd8bsI

Our thoughts and prayers are with you & your family Jack, we wish you a speedy recovery.

On a smaller Walleye style boat, probably not a big deal because of easy/safe access, but if you have to stand on a swim platform, take the cowling off, wind the rope on flywheel(it might not start on the 1st pull AND specially in rough water), I would definitely go with the Merc.

All the best & heal well.

I bought a TD Zillion 100 HA(6.3:1) this past summer, I am very pleased with this reel, like the other poster said, smoothest drag, best cast control and super long casts, just an amazing reel, I will be buying at least one more of those.

Nothing wrong with YardWorks/MTD blower, I am sure there are better/expensive makes out there but for residential use YardWorks is plenty good enough, Electric start is a blessing and you will appreciate the 10 ponies when you get the wet & heavy stuff or when that street plow leaves a 3 ft packed snow bank in front of your driveway. I have the same machine, I do the oil change(synthetic), clean or replace the spark plug every spring before I put it away, I always use fuel stabilizer, keep spare shear bolts and a new spark plug handy.

Glad this was an incident without a tragic ending, equipment can be replaced like you did with something even better. how did the boat flip over like that?

Sorry, no idea about their timing but here is their Phone # 905-277-3595

I had the same experience with Okuma Epixor, a couple of trips to the tribs, a few bows and the reel sounds like a coffee grinder, sent it for warranty repairs, came back ok, first outing and the grinding sound is back, paid $100 for it and very disappointed. have a 12 year old Daiwa Regal, and I have caught everything including big 20+ lbs salmon on it, still as smooth as the day I bought it.

Here is all you need to know about Guest 2611 on board charger, if you need a manual just click on MANUAL at the bottom of the page and print it out for future use. http://www.marinco.com/scpt/ProdPage.php?l...%20Recreational

I am very sorry to hear about your loss, My condolences to you and the family Lew,

Billy Bob, I didn't mention anybody's name, neither do I have to put any words in your mouth, its you who typed the above response. NOT ME! please read catch & possesion limits in the reg book(page 3 & 4).

Jiggy, you have done good! that's the most anyone can do from one boat to another on open water without getting in to a confrontation etc. you have done more then most would have you can't win here tho, if a guy mentions about a poacher here, everyone says "Don't just come here and tell us! why didn't you take pictures and call M.N.R" well, you just did that! and now some are saying that's not enough, "its your word against their" "its not enough evidence" give me a break

CSP stands for Canadian Softwood Plywood. it doesn't mean its marine grade plywood. The only place for marine grade plywood I know in GTA is north of Q.E.W / east of Kipling Ave area, Noah's Marine 54-Six Point Rd Toronto PH:416-232-0522

my 2 cents, really not worth all that extra $$ for a stainless prop on motors less then 150hp, first of all you won't gain much on performance(max 2mph if that) and most importantly if you hit something hard with a stainless prop, you'll probably bend the prop shaft and or damage the lower end because the shafts on smaller outboard are not strong enough and stainless doesn't have much give in it, on the other hand if you hit something with an aluminum prop, well most likely you'll just have to fix or replace the prop, no big $$.

I would also advice against passenger car tires (as stated by slowpoke), they are not rated for trailer use and at one point MTO was considering to fine people if used on trailers, I am not sure if it was ever implemented but the point is that its not rated and safe for trailer duty, mainly because of thinner side walls. I have heard about a lot of problems with Carlisle trailer tires, they may be OK for a while with small loads but I wouldn't buy one, get a set of Goodyear Marathon radials(trailer tires), make sure they are rated for your trailer load. keep them properly inflated and they will last you a long time.

Looks like an enclosed floatation foam chamber to me, for a durable solution, here is what I will do, cut a 3/4" pressure treated or marine grade plywood to the exact shape to fit the top of that platform, then cut a 6"x6" hole in the side of that aluminum chamber, in the middle and about 1" below the top edge, you'll be looking at some foam now, cut and remove about 3" of the top of this foam all directly under the aluminum to gain access to the underside, glue the plywood on top using marine grade sealer and then screw it down with SS machine screws, flat washers and lock nuts(you can cover the plywood with marine carpet if you like). now put your choice of seat base(aluminum) and screw that down right through the plywood and the aluminum together, again use SS machine screws, flat washers and lock nuts and a marine grade sealer , once everything is screwed down get a can of spay-in.foam or Handy Foam(Home Depot) and fill up all the gaps where you had cut out the old foam, starting from the back area(the bow) don't over do it because the stuff expands a lot, and use rubber gloves, give the stuff at least 24 hours to expand and dry. then just clean up whatever foam is sticking out of the 6x6 hole. cut a 8"x8 piece of aluminum sheet, put a bead of marine sealer on all 4 sides, place it over your 6x6 access hole so that it is square and evenly overlapping by 1" on all 4 sides and screw or rivet it together. its a bit of work and will cost more then just screwing the seat on top of the aluminum but it will be solid and the top aluminum will not flex and crack under the weight of a person after a few years.

Personally I wouldn't want ANY overhang, it should sit flush with the bunks(assuming its a bunk trailer) I always worry about the road bumps might damage the seam between the hull and transom with the weight of the motor hanging on the transom, and it might leak if riveted and crack if welded. but that's just me and I have no problems launching the boat with it sitting flush with the bunks. Now balancing your rig for trailering is a totally different story, your tongue weight should be around 10% of your Gross Trailer Weight(trailer and all its contents) but not greater then 15%. for that you have to adjust your axle, make sure it is very straight after you move it, otherwise your vehicle will be going one way and the trailer will have a mind of its own, not to mention wearing your tires very soon.