aplumma

better him then Trump

You are correct Trump can't sing worth a darn. Please don't misunderstand this, William Shatner is one of my hero's he has survived longer than most actors in Hollywood and has turned tragedy into opportunity more times than I can count.

Art

I would buy 2 tickets for this half time show 

This is going down hill to fast.

Art

Art, parabolic would be the blue 'rod' below. Definitely not something I'd be using for jigging up walleyes.

 

Ahhh got it it is a term we don't use when discussing rods. We refer to the speed and weight of the rods. Parabolic is a word we use when we discuss discs. I use rods ranging from 10ft salmon/ slow rods which are very limber with 2oz of lead and circle hooks for catfishing to ultra light/ fast rods for smallmouth. I have a few of the old glass rods for heavy catfishing and my best catfish catcher is an old fenwick flyrod that Spiel built as a baitcaster man that thing just doesn't miss a single pull down. Thanks Chris it is not only a catcher but it also won't let a novice lose a fish.

Art

Dave didn't you have some hockey kick boards from your boat bunker project? A few strips might help stop future holes?

Art

Yea I'm in trouble with this too,it wants to sell me paper from a local office store. I guess i need to look at more "manly" items to get the pretty women. Getting older sucks............

Art

Sean I am not sure what you mean by parabolic it is not a term I have heard before in fishing rods. That aside the best fishing rod is the one that feels good in your hands. All of the major name brands are made with quality material and the difference between a 100 dollar rod and a 300 dollar rod is usually the hardware it is made of. A synthetic handle is much cheaper than a matching cork handle and ceramic guides are less than titanium guides. Both of these examples are the difference between the rods but unless you love cork and need the rod to be lighter are expenses you may not need. Rod materials are important in the blanks but an IM8 blank is the same IM8 blank material from brand to brand they differ in the way it is spun and or bonded together. Machine wrapped versus hand wrapped make the cost of a rod higher but for the average person you will not be able to feel the difference. With all that said look at the St.Croix series they are a very good bang for the buck. You can also look at other major brands either higher in price or lower in your budget. I am lucky that a good friend of mine (spiels custom rods) built me my first custom rod and has over the years made me 8 more. I just had to describe what I wanted it to do and he has been able build not only a great rod with state of the art materials but the look and feel can not be matched by any other rod i have held to date. This might also be the road for you but a warning from me is in order, don't do it unless you look at a custom rod as a work of art and a treasure to be cared for the rest of your life.

Art

Too small of an image Art too see it well. I was hoping you would have chimed in earlier for Worm Dunker. When I said pressure remains constant throughout a system what I didn't say was if your line diameters size is reduced throughout that system, I should have said "somewhat" constant. We dealt in gases as well as water in the furnaces but more gases. Something about leaving somethings to the experts as one can imagine water cooling the most important when dealing with temperatures up to 3400F.

 

Brian, what did I tell you on the phone? You go to work and they pay you, the "pro" works for you, then you pay him. 2 of the things I pay the guy for is electrical and plumbing.

As a plumber, I pay for electrical and drywall mudding. Man I hate mudding.

O come on guys everyone knows an electrician is nothing more than a plumber who had 1/2 his brain removed. lol

You also can click on the picture and it should open in a big window

Art

See if this clears it up. The 3/4 is black pipe and the green is !/2 inch.

art

We have 4 ad slots located 2 rectangles at the top 1/4 and one at the bottom they are Google driven and use your history to decide what ads you get. The top 1/4 to the right is our ads that you can purchase or sponsor for your personal business or use. They cycle through the ads we have sold. We keep our ads to a minimum using them to pay the bills. If anyone does want to place an ad feel free to contact Roy he will guide you thru the process. We have a pretty good spam filter here Roy works hard hand in hand with our provider to keep us safe.

Thanks Roy

Art

Thanx Art. I appreciate your input, I'm still attempting to decipher it!! LOL! If I understand it correctly perhaps I should have used 3/4" to the bathroom, then use a "T" (3/4" to 1/2"). 1/2" to feed the sink, 1/2" to feed the shower, 1/2" to feed toilet?? Am I close?

The tee input side is 3/4 so we are feeding 72 fixture units of water. the two other outlets are 1/2 inch . Each of the outlets that are 1/2 will feed 2 fixtures. so with the set up we could feed 2 on the left and 2 on the right side of the tee. I am not a pex fan it loses a lot of diameter with fittings as pointed out it is very restrictive also because of the hoops and bends it loses a lot of flow. All of the houses that I have input on I advise copper if not then 3/4 cpvc through out the house using 1/2 only at the final connection. The people that spend the extra 20% all love the way they can run two or three faucets without a pressure loss and temperature change.

Art

The pipe rating for 3/4 copper is 72 fixture rating meaning I can supply that number of outlets and still hold the pressure within acceptable limits in water pressure loss. The rating of 1/2 inch pipe is 2 fixture ratings. It means If we have one 3 fixture bathroom then it can be plumbed 1/2 hot water one for the tub one for the sink. The cold water feed is 3/4 meaning up to the bathroom we would have a 3/4 tee with 2 1/2 outlets to be within code. The effects of pipe size is pressure drop as other fixtures are turned on and the friction loss of piping. The friction loss of copper is the least loss while plastics are a major loss as distance increases. Given a static pressure all pipes will go to example 50 lbs with no flow. Turn on a faucet that is equal to the flow in the pipe and you will have no pressure loss but have a flow rating of the pipe. This means a 3/4 pipe will flow 20 gallons a minute while a 1/2 will flow 4 gallons a minute ( numbers are for examples only). If you add the friction loss of plastic or galvanized and you can drop even more. This is all part of the local codes and engineering in the USA they are our guidelines we use while the physics are universal the code requirements are different from code governing rules that Canada follows. The last thought of volume and velocity is as you create back pressure by making a drop in pipe size you are not increasing the pressure greater than the feed pressure you are only creating lower volume without a decrease of pressure. If you start with 50 lb 1/2 and 50 lb 3/4 your bucket will fill faster with the 3/4..

Art

 

Another type of voltage drop test that will test the cables and connections.

 

Voltage drop.jpg

 

The diagram shows the meter connection points, to test the battery positive cable between the battery and the battery terminal of the starter solenoid.

With meter connected and the circuit idle (Everything off) the meter should show zero voltage or very near zero. If there is voltage present; then there is an open in the circuit. (Something not making a connection)

With the meter still connected the same way; attempt to crank the engine and take a meter reading.

You will seem voltage; but it should not exceed 1/4 (.25) of a volt, with the ignition in the crank position.

Any more then .25V and there is high resistance in the circuit; ether a bad cable of a corroded connection.

The same test applies to the negative side of a circuit; battery negative to starter case or engine main ground.

Usually resistance tests are performed with an ohmmeter; but in the case of large cables an ohmmeter can give you a false reading. For example a #6 gauge cable (typical starter cable size) is 3/4 rotted trough. An ohmmeter will still show every low resistance on an idle circuit; because the few strands that are not rotted are still making a connection. You cannot test a live circuit with an ohmmeter; not without letting the smoke out of the electronics or blowing the meter's fuse. The cable that tested good with the ohmmeter, is now asked to carry the approx 300 amps required to crank the engine; but this amperage cannot get passed the rotted section of cable; ending in a no crank or a strong click from the started solenoid.

A voltage drop test is a dynamic resistance test on a live circuit and will take all doubt out of cable and connection condition.

Sorry for the long post; didn't know a short way of explaining?

 

Dan.

Thanks Dan that is a great explanation of the volt drop test.

Art

You can use the meter to see what the voltage drop is when you try to start the battery. The best bet is to take the old battery and have it load tested if it fails then your problem is solved. If it passes the new battery might be just strong enough to possible mask a going bad starter motor.

Art

No after 50lbs you will need 24 volts. The new motors have charge indicators so you will most likely not be surprised with a dead battery without warning. I am using a agm battery which is a little lighter and a better battery in my opinion. Most of my fishing is done on 10-20 percent of the lowest speed and full throttle to get back to the dock. This yields me 5 hours of fishing with better than 1/4 of the charge remaining. Run full out and you can suck down a battery in an hour though.

Art

Sorry to hear Sam hope will keep you going. As to the food angel who ever you are THANKS you are the reason we fight so hard to keep this site open and healthy.

Art

Thanks for sharing the stories Mike they are always appreciated.

Art

nice Jeep now make sure your trailer has a lift kit and tires to follow you in the wilds.

Art

 

If 80 is not overkill for 16' pontoon, I wonder which trolling motor would

you recommend guys for 10' inflatable?

I have a Zodiac http://www.zodiac-nautic.co.uk/boat/8/cadet-310-solid

they recommend max 10HP motor, no more than 15.

 

You will find that you have a lot of drag in the water and with the ability to hold 5 people you will want one that can move the boat without a gas motor pretty well. If it is used along side of a gas motor then you can get away with a much smaller unit. i have a 12volt 40 lb thrust on a 10ft pelican with 2 people and 3-4 mph is easily done. Since I only use it on small lakes and ponds it does not have a gas motor. If I wanted to I could put an 24 volt 80 on it which propels my 18ft Ranger at 4-5mph would get me 5-7mph in the pelican.

Welcome to the board BTW.

Art

If you have the time you will find some great rod and reel combos come thru here. It may not be the specific one you are asking for but other combos may do fit the bill.

Welcome to OFC.

Art

Good news Brian we are doing fine the weather is to the West of us we are mostly just rain for now. If you look on a map and find Washington D.C. you will be about 45 minutes from our houses.

Art

I have the xi5 80 24 volt on a 19ft Ranger it moves it around well. You will be happy with it but as others said you will not want to go any smaller. The XI5 talks to your HDS series lowrance units if you want to hook it up as a network. The xi5 will not follow a contour map however you can program it to run courses if you want. Most of the time I use the heading lock and just point it to a place in the distance and it will correct for wind and water to get there. I also use the anchor lock which holds you in a 5ft point as you catch and release a fish. My understanding is the ipilot does the same thing with contour following as a plus. I found the xi5 to be quieter, tighter on the spot lock and the foot petal less likely to over run on control input.

Art

Thank you to all of the members to OFC for making this past year a great one. The stories and inspiration that cross these pages make me proud to be here. The willingness to give advise and a helping hand in the world is getting rarer these days but as long as it is continues to grow and is strong here we will keep the lights on.

Merry Christmas to all and a Prosperous New Year

Art

Sorry to see this Chad. Be safe on the clean up and best wishes for the days ahead.

Art

Check the ground strap from the negative side of the battery to the engine/starter motor. One test is to take a volt meter and go from the pos. and neg. posts. Turn key and see if the voltage drops when you are trying to start the engine. This will tell you if it is a loose wire (no volt drop) or a bad starter (fast volt drop) this test should be done no more than 5 seconds though. You also can take the jumper cable and go from the negative of the battery to the shell of the starter motor. If it works then the ground strap is bad. Check and clean all connections even if they look good between the battery and starter motor. The clicking leads me to believe that your circuits are good you just can't get the voltage to work. IE bad connection or brushes cooked in starter motor.

Art