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aplumma

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Posts posted by aplumma

  1. yup you can also check out marine washdown pumps I have one on the boat and it is 12 volts. You also will need a place where the pump is protected from the weather they will short out if the motor gets wet.

     

    this is the one I have.

     

    http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--4-0-washdown-pump-kit--13997978

     

    It has a filter as well as quick disconnect which makes it easy to bring inside after you are done.

     

     

    Art

  2. Welding by a professional is not that scary most boats are 5000 or 6000 series aluminum which has at a starting point of T5. Raising the temperature above 400 F will return it to a T1 or with excessive heat T0 condition but just air cooling it will return to a T4 which is the same rating as all of the other welds on the boat. The only way to get a T5 again is to kiln the weld which no boat manufacture will do. Most welds as Wayne pointed out will crack next to the weld not on the weld. With the use of resins and epoxies it generally does not make a stronger joint by using a bonding agent on the outside of a fault rather than a molecular bond such as aluminum liquefied with a metal compatable 5356 rod and the correct heat settings on a quality machine.

     

     

    Art

  3. bigger is better ignore the numbers if you need to do evasive action you will be in less control of the trailer than a bigger vehicle. I run a 10,000 lb tow capacity and have had 8,000 behind it and had an idiot cut me off I survived but with a lesser vehicle I would have wrecked. I know that gas is an expense but it is your and anyone else in the vehicles life you are skimping on.

     

     

     

    Art

  4.  

    Art, good thinking.. Looks like I'll need to test this on the water.

    Or just make sure that the one you have does it unloaded and the new one acts the same way. Short of an amp meter it is hard to know if it is one of the windings dropping out. You also might check in the head unit where the two wires are joined together they use a crimp butt connector that has corroded so only under load/heat does it mess up.

     

    Art

  5. Look at the tool being rated in foot lbs not inch lbs. 1500 inch lbs is 125 foot lbs which is weak when you are going against corroded bolts. Another word to look for is single or double anvil which is the mass and impact ability of the drive. I use a 750 ft lb double impact to remove stubborn bolts and sometimes that is not enough and takes quite a bit of effort.

     

     

    Art

  6. The good news is you do not have to take it to a shop and pay their prices. However if you do instead of complaining about the price thank them for a job well do that you can't do yourself. I do plumbing for a living and it is expensive running a shop the overhead is high and to keep a good mechanic you have to pay them a enough to keep them. If they complete a job in a faster time than an agreed upon price up front then they have been rewarded for their their talent and efficiency. Years ago I paid a shop to make repairs to my vehicles and afterwards gave the mechanic a tip and took care of them at Christmas. That was 15 years ago and because I was nice and appreciated them they now fix my vehicles as a friends pricing rather than a customers price. Just my thoughts

     

     

    Art

  7. What seats did you put in it Art?

     

     

     

    The seats are made by tempest they have held up very well and the cushions have remained firm. I mounted them to the box lids to keep the storage area water tight. They have hinges to flip the two full seats and the center seat flips up and down to access the back of the boat easily without stepping on the cushions. The pole seats are the same manufacture and I think the butt seat is from bass pro but I am not sure it also might be a tempest.

     

     

    Art

     

     

    91CA5D08-9ECB-40A3-A9CE-06EAF7491F75_zps

     

    83E405E9-8837-45F7-B224-51DD3C708C64_zps

    FACF12B4-1C1E-4BAA-AB2B-76C0006B146A_zps

  8. I run a 1989 Ranger and it has been flawless in the build department. I chose that year because they changed the pad in 1990 for a smaller wet surface. I have been out in some nasty weather and have not felt scared and with upgraded seats my back has not been jammed even riding the caps of the waves. ( the factory seats back then where 2" foam on plywood). The only thing I dislike is gas was cheap back then and the original motor is a 6 carb 150 2 stroke that burns 4/5th of a gallon a minute at full throttle. I looked into changing it out but at $11000.00 plus for a new motor I think I will wait till it blows up some year in the future. lol

     

     

    Art

  9. Factory manuals are the best one to get if possible. Just so you know just because it is old does not mean it is less expensive to fix. I rebuild old motorcycles and some of them have cost as much as a new motorcycle to get back on the road correctly. I am not saying yours will do the same thing but if a stator makes you quezzie just think about the great deal you got on the purchase price. lol

     

     

    Art

  10. Step one is get the book for the bike. The charging circuit is separate from the spark and igniter. Most of the tests needed to be preformed are measuring the resistance of the igniter circuit. First thing to check is the easiest answers like connectors for path and then go one to the possible failure of components. The book will give you the paths as well as the resistance values of what you are testing. Do not just change parts it will be expensive and or you will try a coil from another vehicle and has a different circuit or value and then damage the cdi or worse.

     

     

    Art

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