Jump to content

Lape0019

Members
  • Posts

    658
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Lape0019

  1. Yes, it shows the location but states opening in July.
  2. Is this location up and running again? Gander Mountain went bankrupt last year and a new owner bought them out of bankruptcy. The new stores will be named Gander Outdoors but only a handful of the locations are currently open from what I have read.
  3. Great post. When we were looking for those rock piles/boulders, we were in 40 FOW. It is most definitely not just for shallow water.
  4. Garnet, While I agree that SI on a TM will blur when you turn, it does have its advantages if you know what you are looking for. I have been in scenarios with my buddy where I was monitoring the unit at the console and he was monitoring the one at the bow with SI and we could determine the length of rock piles to narrow our drift. It all has a use, the cost is what determines how much you have to have it. As for 360, my tournament partner had it for a while and sold it. He did not like the imaging on it unless you were stationary. He found that even small waves would disrupt the view and just got frustrated with it. He felt that if he was in shallow water and had a talon or something to hold his position, it would be better at getting what he was looking for with regards to clarity of the screen but, it was not worth it to him so he sold it.
  5. There’s a place and time for everything and having used Si with a buddy a few times was enough to convince me to get it on the new boat. Unlike 2d, you have to be moving at a slower rate to take advantage of si but the imaging it can produce can quickly cut down the time of searching for structure. You can find bait apps and structure as well as fish but finding fish isn’t what most use it for. The fish holding structure is what you are looking for. Find it, and you’ll find the fish.
  6. They can all be faked these days. I took a bank draft and had to wait for it to clear as the bank it was from was closed for the day. It came in the next day. Now, I sold my boat to a buddy so I was not too worried. If it would have been to someone I did not know, he would be coming to the bank with me and would not be hooking my boat up to his tow rig until I had confirmed the money was in my account.
  7. That’s seriously messed up. As for transferring the vessel license, yes, I know you have to do it but I did mine at the service Ontario near where I live. I sold the boat in October to a buddy and just asked him if he had to pay anything and the answer was no. And he went to Service Ontario in Ottawa. Amazing to see the different info you get with just a few hundred kilometres difference in location. You’d think it would be standard. As stated before though, I know there is a charge for a commercial vessel. I think there may be a charge for a cruiser over a certain length too but don’t quote me on that.
  8. By vessel, what do you mean? Is this a fishing boat, a cruiser/yacht or a commercial boat? From what I understand, there is no charge for a fishing boat/pleasure craft but there can be some costs associated to other types of boats under certain circumstances.
  9. That very well may be the case these days. The older pressure treated stuff had some nasty chemicals in it that would eat through aluminum over time. Like I said, the newer stuff is supposed to be safer but for me, I would still use marine grade (especially if you can get away with just one sheet) just for my own peace of mind. From what I can tell, there really isn't anything else done to marine grade plywood, the difference is in what type of wood it is made out of and the glue used to bond it together.
  10. If you are talking about a boat, it is recommended not to use Pressure treated wood period. I know the newer stuff is a whole lot safer but marine grade plywood is usually the recommendation. I do not believe there was any sealer of any kind on the marine grade plywood in my boat and it is still going strong after 12 years. I have seen people use various sealers to help things out but if you use the proper wood to begin with, I do not see a need for it. If you do, I would go with something a little more durable that Thompsons water seal.
  11. A custom cover for your boat is a little different. the clip on ones don't seem to be a thing for bass boats. I don't know why, but its either a few straps to the trailer/underneath boat or a ratchet style one. Either way, this takes my first comment out of the equation. Number 2 and 3 still apply but are more of an user thing than an issue. If you're happy either way, that's all that matters.
  12. There are a couple of reasons I don't travel with the cover on. this was from my Tin boat. Not the new rig as I haven't towed with it. Same principles will apply though. 1. You mentioned its a west marine cover. So not a factory one which would mean it is not an exact fit. That right there would mean, I probably would not tow with it. Maybe ask the guy you bought it from what he did since he took damn good care of it. 2. Both an aftermarket cover and even a good fitted cover will typically balloon on you while towing adding considerable stress to the cover. I want this thing to last as long as possible so I limit towing with the cover to rainy/snowy days. As mentioned above, I am one of those bass guys that stores his boat in the garage. 3. Gas mileage. Even with my old tin, it was noticeable that the ballooned cover was essentially a large sail that created drag and increased fuel usage. Not a huge deal for a small trip, but could very well be on a trip of 3000KM's. The truth is, there is no really wrong answer. It's your baby so treat it how you want to but for me, unless it is absolutely necessary, I leave the cover off. And I assure you, I wasn't trying to show off the last boat! LOL. The new one may be a different story.
  13. I've learned to just deal will it and use it to my advantage. If its 25KM/hr, I'm not out there unless I am tournament fishing anyway. And, with that in mind, a good trolling motor with spot lock and Advanced autopilot will give you a little more control out there should you want to fish a hump out in the open or troll into the wind at a certain speed.
  14. Granted, not far off but my tracker had a 75hp and was under my home policy. It was on a rider under my home policy I should say. My only stipulation was speed. The boat could not exceed 60mph or it would be need to be on its own policy. Different insurance companies will have different rules though.
  15. The unscratched lens part is very true. That is why I am considering the glass costas. They do not scratch as easily.
  16. Downside of insuring under house policy is that if you have a claim on your boat, your home insurance goes up. I was insured that way for years and never had an issue but this was always on my mind.
  17. I know I wrote a book on Oakley's but I have tried a few different brands. Oakley, I have had multiple pairs in both regular and polarized over the years. They seem to be the most comfortable and their lenses are great. Maui Jim (since the were mentioned. I had the sport with ruby lenses. Great pair of indestructible glasses and are super light, I did not however find theym great for fishing. Great for day to day though Ray Ban (no idea the model) Great clarity but nothing better than Oakley and because they were open around the sides, let a lot of light in. Revo. Guide small. These are my current day set. They have great clarity, shed water like no tomorrow (no waterspot. I have the blue water lens They also come with a float that goes around your head (I never used this). The downside is they are not very comfortable.. In all honesty, I would still go with Oakley over any of these other ones. They just work better. I will either be going back to another set of Oakleys or buyng some Costa's. The biggest thing to look for is that the frame does not allow like onto the backside of the lens. This just seems to help with seeing deeper into the water column.
  18. Yeah... That would make my mind up pretty quick.
  19. Polarized glasses are good for anything and not just for fishing. They cut the glare out everything. I wear a pair every day driving to work. and have a set in the boat in case I forget the others in the car (kept my older pair). If you're not convinced, buy a pair of cheap ones to start. No matter the price, they still work. Once you're convinced, step up to a better pair. I prefer Oakley sunglasses for comfort and clarity. They are still a "plastic" (for lack of a better word) lens but have some of the best clarity out there. I use the Shallow blue lens for shallow water. They also offer a deep blue lens for deeper water (see where this is going? LOL). There is a third lens but I do not know if they make it anymore. I suggest you go on their website and check out the fishing specific glasses. Look at the lens information and go from there. I personally do not like the styles of their fishing glasses but you can get most of the lens options in other models of frames. If you really want to treat yourself, the ones that get the most positive reviews seem to be the Costa's with the 580 glass lense. They will be heavier but anyone I know who has used them, absolutely loves them for comfort and clarity. If you haven't guess by my response, I 100% believe you get what you pay for in a polarized lens. yeah, they make a profit but the R&D of these things have to be paid somewhere. Plus, you only get one set of eyes so you may as well take care of them.
  20. Akrisoner, You have already figured out that this is a requirement. It is not something a lot of us even think about when buying a boat because it only applies to people with 15-20 year old boats. Having said that, I think it also only applies to fiberglass boats as my father was asked to provide one after owning it a few years and when it hit 20 years old. This boat was an aluminum Lund. He called the insurance company up and said it was aluminum and they said not to worry about it then. As you have also found out, insurance really is optional on boats but with anything, it's always good to have for the "what if" scenarios. I've always carried insurance on my boat more so because it covers other things as well like if you ruin your lower unit and need a new one. They aren't exactly cheap. In your case, it may not be worth it but I would encourage you to ask some harder questions to the insurance company before getting a survey. If you do need a new lower, would they pay for it or would they write off the boat? what about hull damage? same thing? My decision to insure would be based on that and not the liability side since your research shows the truth about boating in Canada. Now with my new boat, insurance wasn't an option. I needed it for financing and I didn't want to take the risk that if I hit something, I'd have to pay out of pocket for a brand new lower unit and any repairs to the hull. I'm figuring the LU on the new boat is $5,000 at least and I know hull work isn't cheap as a buddy just put in a claim for like $9,000 from hitting a shoal. Pretty much put on a new hull lol.
  21. I pretty much target Bass and Perch. for the one rod I use for both, it has 20lb Power Pro on it and if I'm drop shotting, I'll tie on a flourocarbo leader. I really don't think you can go worng with braid but downsizing might be a great option for you.
  22. That's actually a really nice looking boat! and considering todays bot in the 17.5' world are powered by a max 115, a 130 is pretty big for that thing. My buddy had a pro craft the same size and another buddy has an Astro (pretty much same boat) with a 135 and both topped out around 50-55 with the proper prop. One had a jack plate, the other removed his. I know one has had some chine walking. not sure of the other but this really only happens at max speed and most learn to drive through it. It's just minor adjustments to the steering wheel to keep you on pad. Or the other option is to trim down a bit until the boat settles down. Until you are comfortable at WOT, you won't have to worry about it and like I wrote earlier, you may never even have to worry about it. I am also interested in what Lumma means. This thread has been beneficial to more than just you as I need to learn how to properly drive this thing as well. Luckily for me, many of my friends have18.5 footers capable of 60+ and one of the pro staffers who has had the same boat (and is buying another) has offered to take me out. Regardless, congrats again! looks like a great boat that has been really well cared for.
  23. Congrats on the purchase! After reading through all of the posts, I will say that a WP gauge isn't a requirement but is highly recommended. I didn't have one on the Tracker with the 75 but the new boat has one and I will be paying close attention to it. with the Tracker, I never played around with engine height or anything so it wasn't an issue. If you have a jack plate and make adjustments to it, the WP gauge will allow you to see if you have gone too far (drop in pressure). If you don't care for max speed, I wouldn't even touch the setup. It has worked for the previous owner for years so it will probably work for you. And from what I have seen, you probably won't have any issues with chine walk with your setup (that's what scares me the most for this year). It may not be fast enough for you to worry about. Drive it like you would your buddies Legend to start with and figure out its idiosyncrasies. Every boat is different and it will take you a while to truly understand how it handles. Take your time and figure it out. It took me almost 2 seasons to fully understand or anticipate what my old boat would do when I chopped the throttle or trimmed up. Oh! and APLUMMA (as always) provided some great advice there but be careful when chopping the throttle. With bass boats, its better to trim down first and then decelerate instead of just chopping the throttle. Nasty stuff has happened to people who just decided to decelerate with the throttle. May not be an issue with your boat because of the size and HP/speed but just keep it in the back of your mind. I know for me, coming out of a 75HP boat and going into a 225HP boat, I will be taking her easy for quite some time. I know how to drive a boat at 45MPH. Not so much at 70MPH. You are pretty much in the same scenario. With extra speed, comes extra precautions so take it easy until you understand what the boat will do and how it will handle certain situations.
  24. I wrote something up on another forum earlier this week but for your question, you have a few options. Minnkota: Powerdrive V2 with I-Pilot (no foot pedal if you want spot lock) Terrova w/I-Pilot or I-Pilot Link Ulterra w/I-Pilot or I-Pilot Link Ultrex w/I-Pilot or I-Pilot Link Motorguide: Xi3 (new motor) Xi5 Never used the Motorguide units as I had an older cable steer and hated it. As mentioned above, The Terrova is a great motor. Loved it 90% of the time on my tracker 190TX. Ulterra is the same but has auto stow and deploy. The new boat with have the Ultrex on it. Basically a lovechild of a Fortrex and Terrova. If you have the extra funds, I'd get the ultrex. If not, the Terrova is the next best option if you don't care for the auto stow/deploy features of the Ulterra..
  25. Get to shore carefully and take care of business. lol. Glad to hear you're biting the bullet. It's definitely exciting to shop for boats. Downside to buying in December (for me) is not being able to use it for a few months. It's being stored at the dealer until I pick it up in May and this has been the longest 2.5 months ever!
×
×
  • Create New...