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The biggest thing with ethanol fuel is that it loves absorbing moisture, which we all know. My Honda 40hp had three carbs on it. If that motor sat for anymore then 2 weeks it was a complete dink to start. The fuel in the carbs (less then an ounce per-carb) are open to the atmosphere (all carbs need atmospheric pressure to function) and the ethanol fuel would go stale that fast. If I drained the carbs after using the motor for a day of fishing. The next time I would go out, I'd use the primer bulb to refill the carbs and that motor would start right up. I did also use Seafoam in every tank of fuel. The fuel in my sealed tank would stay good because I made sure that the fuel tank cap was actually working and sealing the tank when there was no draw from the motor. In other words a bit of prevention and a regiment of maintenance is all you need to deal with ethanol fuel. A lot of onboard fuel tanks have a fuel tank vent that is open; we've all seen it at the gas stations, where gas would spill out the vent when the fuel tank was full. That fuel in the tank is exposed to the atmosphere, depending on how humid it is that fuel can go stale if not used right away. We don't see this problem of stale fuel in the automotive industry. Emissions standards (no hydrocarbons are allowed into the atmosphere) require the fuel delivery systems to be completely sealed. It is called the evaporative emission control system (EVAP). This system works only with fuel injected motors. They don't need air pressure to atomize the fuel and can have sealed systems. At the end of this long post all I can advise is keep the fuel, you're using away from the air as much as possible... Just a side note and a bit of humor. My neighbor next door to me at the trailer park, buys a 2 gallon can of gas every spring. It's nicely sealed not to spill in his car. He opens the can, puts the pour spot on and fills his lawnmower; but leaves the gas can open for the rest of the season. A few weeks later he doesn't understand why the mower is hard to start and if it did start, it ran like a bag of crap. I'd go over drain the fuel tank and carb and then put gas in from my sealed can. Two or three pulls and it starts and runs like new. He doesn't understand why his fuel is bad. "I'll never buy gas from that place again" NO buddy seal you gas can!!! Dan...

A water fuel separator would alleviate the ethanol fuel problem by about 99%. Racor makes them for a variety of motors. In my Yamaha F40 manual recommends min 86 Octane, no high test is required. I'd check with some of your local marinas to see which one still carries non ethanol regular. As for additives, I only use Sea Foam available at most car part places, CTC, etc. At the end of the year, I drain the tank, hose and get as much out of the motor as I can.

Dan...you had to bring that up. damn I could lose 40!

My thinking is you cannot have to much battery, sitting in reserve! The average difference between a group 24 and group 27 is approx. 13-15 pounds. Look around your boat for things that you have in and get rid of the non essentials. You can likely find those few pounds. Dam if you're anything like me, loose that weight by going on a diet: the doctor, your wife and you'd feel better? LOL Dan...

Oh lets say, I don't over do it except for start of the season. Then I never use a full tank for a days fishing, maybe 1/3 so about 7 litres, so I add about a shot glass and refill with regular gas. Maybe I should have indicated that at the start. Knock wood, I've never had a fouled carb or injector system, I'm pretty anal about keeping the gas cans and boat tank sealed and very clean.

All this food talk is making me hungry. Here are some of my home made sausages and cured meats.

This will ruin your day... https://www.powernationtv.com/post/this-guy-doesnt-realize-his-boat-hes-towing-is-on-fire