Centre pin side casting

[davey buoy]

water is never really clear,I put 150 yards of backing on and about 200 yards of mono.Went again yesterday,approx,3 hours saw some fish but not on my line.Still no line twisting at all with that swivel above the float. I'm using a coke type machine for my egg sacks,I hear they work ok,what's your guys opinion? I have no other source of fresh eggs or skien[spelling].Thanks davey.

[Paulus]

You'll eventually realize it's all personal preference Just don't get caught up in the hype!

 

Ha! Truer words were never spoken!

 

The only advice I think I can add to this already well-answered thread is to practice the different casts - spinning side-cast, wallis, modified wallis, BC cast (not that I'm proficient at all these styles myself )- when things are slow. It's a fun way to get the best of both worlds, and eventually the more you practice the more sub-conscious your casting becomes.

 

p.-

[Sharkbait22]

I use the Wallis mod cast without issue, but I can chuck it further with a side cast - not that I typically need to get that far while floating even in large rivers. When using a double swivel setup how do you adjust your float? Are you just limited in the range of depths? Does the swivel slip through the guides? I'm also interested to try superlines on a float reel. That sound pretty wild. Thanks

[GoneFishin]

I have a question about swivels. Why are you guys running them above your floats? Isn't it harder to mend your line and keep on the surface?? Also, when your break off you loose your float and everything, what is the benefit of running it above instead of below?

 

Ohh, and has any one tried the nano fill on there pin yet?? lol

Edited September 2, 2011 by GoneFishin

[Paulus]

Thanks to all the guys who recommended putting the swivel above the float.Spent 3 hours today and not one line twist,also no fish lol.Thanks again

 

The next thing to learn is trotting. You asked about it early on, and I didn't see anyone explain this.

 

Basically it's what the centrepin is made for, and it's about delaying the drift of your float so that the bait travels downstream in front of your rig. You do it by applying pressure to the spool as your float "trots" downstream.

 

One of the biggest challenges at the beginning is to not "over trot." I don't really know any other term for it, but I've seen several new 'pinners' do this, and I have been a long-time victim of this self-inflicted torture myself (I still catch myself doing it). Basically, if you're over trotting you're pulling the bait up and out of the strike zone in an unnatural way that can spook fish - of course if you happened to tie on something that's supposed to rise (i.e. caddis fly) then you probably should over trot now and again - but most bait is supposed to just move along in the current, at the speed of the flow.

 

Not sure where you're fishing, but try varying the amount of pressure you put on your spool during your drift. It could bag you a fish

 

p.-

[Paulus]

I use the Wallis mod cast without issue, but I can chuck it further with a side cast - not that I typically need to get that far while floating even in large rivers. When using a double swivel setup how do you adjust your float? Are you just limited in the range of depths? Does the swivel slip through the guides? I'm also interested to try superlines on a float reel. That sound pretty wild. Thanks

 

Largely depends where you're fishing. Whenever I've attached a swivel above the float, I've used it where I knew my lead was not going to exceed roughly 8' to 10' (I use a 13' XST). I've also done it for a portion of the day, if I was fishing a shallower stretch on a deeper river (i.e. the 'Geen) and wanted to get rid of line twist comfortably. If this means re-rigging, then so be it: I don't mind re-rigging as I think that it can be a way bigger waste of time to fish with the wrong setup than to take 5 minutes to do it up right - and fresh.

 

Also, microswivels are so light and tiny that they don't interfere with mending your line and, for the lazier moments, most float tubing can slide over them pretty easily with a little bit of jimmying.

 

p.-

[troutologist]

The next thing to learn is trotting. You asked about it early on, and I didn't see anyone explain this.

 

Basically it's what the centrepin is made for, and it's about delaying the drift of your float so that the bait travels downstream in front of your rig. You do it by applying pressure to the spool as your float "trots" downstream.

 

One of the biggest challenges at the beginning is to not "over trot." I don't really know any other term for it, but I've seen several new 'pinners' do this, and I have been a long-time victim of this self-inflicted torture myself (I still catch myself doing it). Basically, if you're over trotting you're pulling the bait up and out of the strike zone in an unnatural way that can spook fish - of course if you happened to tie on something that's supposed to rise (i.e. caddis fly) then you probably should over trot now and again - but most bait is supposed to just move along in the current, at the speed of the flow.

 

Not sure where you're fishing, but try varying the amount of pressure you put on your spool during your drift. It could bag you a fish

 

 

 

 

p.-

 

 

Fishing a pink worm is a great time to experiment with really holding back on the float and letting the worm float up....vicious hits.

Edited September 3, 2011 by Jay Hamilton