jedimaster Posted July 14, 2011 Report Posted July 14, 2011 I always trailer my alluminums with the motor down and haven't had this issue. a 3 cyl 30 hp yamaha 2 stroke weighs in at 130 pounds. Your 30 4 stroke is about 25 percent heavier assuming itg weighs 175 pounds. 25% is a fair bit of extra weight. Best thing is to first contact Lund and see if its covered under warranty. Then hang up and call lund back again and ask what the trailering recomendations are for a 30hp 4 stroke honda with that boat. then set it up like that and take it back for warranty work. If its not under warranty work set it up like that and keep using it then look for a place to repair it if need be.
LucG Posted July 14, 2011 Author Report Posted July 14, 2011 This is how I have been trailering my boat. Like I had mentioned in a previous post, I initailly did not have a transom saver, but began using one shortly after purchasing. You'll notice in this picture that the motor had preveously been in the lower position, I think it was to fine tune the depth because there is a hydrofoil stabalizer installed as seen in the first pic. And this is the Transport Canada plate...
jedimaster Posted July 14, 2011 Report Posted July 14, 2011 Looks fine to me. FUnny, my lund SV16 is rated for more hp, weight and passengers. I thought they were the same hull as the DLX. ANyway, looks good to me. not too high up, gives some extra clearance for the skeg over the speed bumps.
Roe Bag Posted July 14, 2011 Report Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) I don't agree with this Roebag... "I don't agree with THIS Roebag..."??????????????? What's with that? Some kind of slam? Fine if you don't agree with Roebag but "THIS" Roebag. Over forty years and a gazillion miles trailering boats and I'm "THIS" Roebag. Whatever!!!!!!!! Don't you think engineers and manufacturers haven't considered the additional weight of four strokes and stengthened transoms accordingly? With the engine in the normal operating position there is no change in direction in terms of weight transfer. The energy is transfered vertically down through the transom to the bottom of the boat. Through the trailer to the suspension. All in a straight line. NO FLEXING. I also place the gear selector in reverse so that the engine is locked down and can't bounce around or try to flip up in the event of a serious bump. Scanned from my Yamaha Owners Manual. If you consult your dealer he will point out to you that you can adjust the bunk/roller height and the spring shackles length that will afford the necessary ground clearance. I maintain about eight inches between the ground and the bottom of the skeg. Fully loaded with gear adnd supplies the spring travel is only about four inches before the wheels bounce off the ground. Lots of room to breath. My spring shackles and bunk mounts are pre drilled with extra holes for easy adjustment. No transom saver required! You guys with larger outfits and different configurations may certainly require a transom saver. No need in my case or from what I see here, in this case either. Edited July 14, 2011 by Roe Bag
LucG Posted July 14, 2011 Author Report Posted July 14, 2011 Thanks Roebag! The decision to use a transom saver was not to avoid damaging the skeg. It was to reduce the amount of bouncing I was seeing. Adding the transom saver help this alot. I understand %100 what you mean, do you think the motor as it sits with the transom saver on is to horizontal?
LucG Posted July 14, 2011 Author Report Posted July 14, 2011 What if I reduce the lengh of the transom saver by one notch. It will be that much more vertical, and will still help reduce the bounce.
Roe Bag Posted July 14, 2011 Report Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) What if I reduce the lengh of the transom saver by one notch. It will be that much more vertical, and will still help reduce the bounce. Earlier in this post I read that you are not sure if the damage was there at the time of purchase or since you have owned it. Also you are uncertain if you caused the damage seeing it bouncing around before purchasing the transom saver. I would stick with the transom saver. At least until you find out what's up. Have a Lund dealer inspect the damage. Certainly a 2008 boat would have been designed with the additional weight of a four stroke taken into consideration. The dry weight of your BF30 longshaft is 160 lbs. Go to this link and click on the Specifications tab. http://marine.honda.com/Products/modeldetail/BF30 I scanned this from my Yamaha Owners Manual. Something else you may want to consider. Good luck, "THIS" Roebag! Edited July 14, 2011 by Roe Bag
Roe Bag Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) I seriously considered a 16' Lund DLX but I was truly disappointed when I started comparing it to the SSV. Seems Lund has really cheaped out. Shallower. Narrower. Accordingly, carrying capacity and maximum horsepower rating has been reduced. The transom on the SSV is fully covered with aluminium and completed with a backsplash. As much as I would have liked the full floor and walk through the design the SSV, structurally, is a much better boat. Edited July 15, 2011 by Roe Bag
glen Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) The hydrofoil and the piece of wood make me think buddy was doing something funny with that boat. You dont need either. I see he drilled the holes to bolt the motor on with the wood in there. How nice. Does it have some wood in the transom or is it all aluminium? Nice boat and motor. I hope you get it sorted out. Edited July 15, 2011 by glen
glen Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 One other problem is your boat is hanging out passed the back of the trailer. I like to have the trailer supporting the boat right under the transom.
Roe Bag Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 One other problem is your boat is hanging out passed the back of the trailer. I like to have the trailer supporting the boat right under the transom. Good eye Glen. The boat does actually extend beyond the end of the bunks of the trailer. This too could add to the "bouncing" you observed prior to the instilation of the transom saver. It would create a whip like action at the rear of the boat. The bottom of the boat should be even with the ends of the bunks. To resolve this, measure the overhang. Then loosen the bolts securing the winch mast and move it forward the required distance. Tighten and winch the boat into proper position. The transom saver will probably require adjustment as well.
Roe Bag Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 He forgot a comma Roe Bag take it easy. Perhaps. Be nice to here that from him. As it stands. it appears to be derogatory.
Fisherpete Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) Hey Roebag, The "this" that you are referring to was referring to your thoughts on the transom saver not being required for boats with under 60hp engines, nothing was meant towards you personally! Just trying to help a fellow fisherman out here... this has nothing to do with slamming anybody. All I was trying to say is that in some applications, for some boats, I think a transom saver is a necessity. I firmly believe that not having one installed to support some of my heavy Honda outboard's weight contributed to ruining my Tracker after only 3 seasons. Sorry if you took it the wrong way - not sure why you took it so personally! "One other problem is your boat is hanging out passed the back of the trailer. I like to have the trailer supporting the boat right under the transom." This was also the case with my Tracker trailer/boat combo... the boat hung past the bunks by about 6 inches when I bought it, and I adjusted things to make it less... but with the boat as far forward as ir could go, it still hung past the bunks by 2 or 3 inches. Also probably played a factor here. Edited July 15, 2011 by Fisherpete
Roe Bag Posted July 15, 2011 Report Posted July 15, 2011 Hey Roebag, The "this" that you are referring to was referring to your thoughts on the transom saver not being required for boats with under 60hp engines, nothing was meant towards you personally! Just trying to help a fellow fisherman out here... this has nothing to do with slamming anybody. All I was trying to say is that in some applications, for some boats, I think a transom saver is a necessity. I firmly believe that not having one installed to support some of my heavy Honda outboard's weight contributed to ruining my Tracker after only 3 seasons. Sorry if you took it the wrong way - not sure why you took it so personally! "One other problem is your boat is hanging out passed the back of the trailer. I like to have the trailer supporting the boat right under the transom." This was also the case with my Tracker trailer/boat combo... the boat hung past the bunks by about 6 inches when I bought it, and I adjusted things to make it less... but with the boat as far forward as ir could go, it still hung past the bunks by 2 or 3 inches. Also probably played a factor here. To me it implied, I don't agree with this Roebag character.... It seemed you were speaking to the original poster about me instead of to me. Had you written I don't agree Roebag or I disagree Roebag, then there would have been no implication. It would have been clear that you were simply disagreeing with me. Sorry for both the misconception and the misunderstanding. Rick aka Roebag.
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