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Tying A Float Rod


Guest ThisPlaceSucks

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Guest ThisPlaceSucks

I'm going to tie my first float rod and i'm looking for suggestions as far as components. I'm not looking to buy the top of the line anything as I've only just begun rod tying. I'd like to tap the wealth of knowledge on the board and see what you think would be good.

 

I'm looking to build an 11'6" rod, and i've already selected my blanks. otherwise, from cork to guides to seat, even down to thread I haven't made any selections. I'd also like suggestions of companies that you have dealth with for ordering these components. i've been looking, but the amount of selection is a little overwhelming.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I built an 11'6" last year and it was a really cool experience although as it turns out I was not looking for an 11'6" float rod and it hardly sees action.

 

I built a st. croix blank, split grip design with pac bay aluminum reel seat, fuji guides, and cheap cork...

 

My biggest piece of advice is instead of making it flashy, make it practical. The rod I built is beautiful, and I love to look at it but it is far from being the best float rod I have to fish with. The split grip resulted in far too much length behind the reel which kills the available power in the butt of the rod, the cheap cork is too thin and doesn't fit well in my hand.

 

My worst mistake was getting too anxious, take your time with it and come out with something you really want, vs something that looks real good but doesnt function quite as you hoped.

 

Dont go cheap on the cork, and also remember that the blank will have a much faster action before it is tied then after.

 

Good luck!

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When ordering components, try to find items locally if you can…Ordering long, heavy, expensive or flammable items from the States may be quite costly in terms of shipping, brokerage, customs and other hidden fees. I mostly deal with Angling Specialties when purchasing components (I live 3min away from the shop)…If I want something they don’t carry, I try to order from one of the Canadian vendors like

 

John Collina

http://www.jccustomtackle.com/

or

http://www.rodbuildersupplies.com/index.php

 

If not, Mudhole down in Florida has been great getting stuff but be aware that shipping can total to 25-65% of the price of your items based on how they ship it (Fedex or USPS or how big the box is that’s being shipped to you)

http://www.mudhole.com/

 

I’ve also dealt with Mark Crouse from West Virginia in the past (aka Munich Rod Man). He is one of the greatest thread weavers on the planet. His website is down but his contact info is available if you google it up. He stocks European float blanks (Like Harrison, MSC and Tusk) and builds them for Erie trib steelhead. Also has a variety of metal/rubber butt caps and can turn you a custom reel seat, butt cap, handle if you want.

 

Rod building is really easy if you’re a patient person who is pretty detail oriented. You can make your own rod tying stand out of a few pieces of wood…If you have no hardware tools whatsoever to make a stand, a cardboard box with 2 notches cut on the sides would suffice…You could also use a telephone book to run your thread through for tension. You can hand turn your rods after applying epoxy if you don’t have a motor (you could also build your own motor out of a BBQ rotisserie). Have some light sandpaper on hand (I like using 3M scotch-brite in grey or maroon) and some brushes to apply epoxy (I prefer small medical spatulas or bodkins better but brushes are probably easier for beginners to use)

 

With cork, you have 3 options: a) Buy pre-fabricated handles and glue onto the rod or b.) glue your own cork rings together onto a mandrel, then shape them on a lathe and then assemble onto the rod or c) glue them onto the rod and then turn. For a beginner, I’d recommend buying a pre-made handle off of a rod builder and taking a reaming file to it and gluing it on…Saves you from buying or needing to build your own high speed lathe to turn it.

 

BOF from the Float board builds rods and I think is around your neck of the woods…You might be able to get some tips and components off of him too. Learning off somebody in person is a lot better than watching internet tutorials IMO.

 

It’s a fun and really addictive hobby once you get into it. I loved getting scrap blanks and factory seconds and piecing them together with hack saws to make fly rod blanks…I also used to salvage old float rod blanks and refinish them for cheap or turn them into something totally different and build them for myself. For me, I love the variety of components and options (like thread colour, decorative wraps, etc) you can use to build rods just for yourself to your own preferences. Haven’t built full rods for quite some time due to my allergies to epoxy but I’ve been playing around with other finishes like varnish, Permagloss and some clear coat adhesives and I’m hoping to be at it again this winter.

 

Last year I built a float rod for myself out of a used scrap blank for pretty cheap (at least compared to one brand new) - Definitely won't see another one like it on the river :D

DSC_4999.jpg

 

DSC_4985.jpg

 

DSC_4980.jpg

 

DSC_4991.jpg

 

Go for it provided the wifey lets you use the kitchen table

DSC_0712.jpg

 

DSC_0692.jpg

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Guest ThisPlaceSucks

changed blanks. has anybody worked with the rainshadow series of blanks? they are a great price for my first rod tie, and seem to be well respected, at least in the states...

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Guest ThisPlaceSucks

everything i've read is that these blanks are a steal for the performance but i wanted to tap the knowledge well of OFC. seeing some of you vets endorsing them makes me feel comfortable in my selection.

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changed blanks. has anybody worked with the rainshadow series of blanks? they are a great price for my first rod tie, and seem to be well respected, at least in the states...

 

Probably the least expensive option for quality blanks you can find in the market (Great value IMO)…I built 1 of the old RX7 float blanks for a close friend 5yrs ago (2pc, 4-8lb) – Bill Batson told me it was the predecessor model to the current RX7 and the newer blanks are slightly faster in action. Had a chance to play around with the 13’ RX8 blank this summer and tie on a few guides.

 

P1010273.jpg

P1010270.jpg

 

Ran a line though it and felt pretty fast and powerful compared to most other blanks on the market. I’m currently looking for a 2pc rod myself (for trib hopping) and may consider building the RX8 or the new 13’ St. Croix Avid when it comes out (Both blanks are under $200CAN I believe without shipping or other fees).

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Ironically enough yes.

It appears that both rods were broken by user error.

 

(When you encounter a snag, point the rod directly at the snag, clamp down on the reel and pull. Don't put the rod into a full load and walk backwards.)

 

 

I did.

 

The rod was parallel to the water.

 

I wasn't reefing on it.

 

Ask the 3 guys that were there watching as they stood in disbelief when it broke.

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Probably the least expensive option for quality blanks you can find in the market (Great value IMO)…I built 1 of the old RX7 float blanks for a close friend 5yrs ago (2pc, 4-8lb) – Bill Batson told me it was the predecessor model to the current RX7 and the newer blanks are slightly faster in action. Had a chance to play around with the 13' RX8 blank this summer and tie on a few guides.

 

P1010273.jpg

P1010270.jpg

 

Ran a line though it and felt pretty fast and powerful compared to most other blanks on the market. I'm currently looking for a 2pc rod myself (for trib hopping) and may consider building the RX8 or the new 13' St. Croix Avid when it comes out (Both blanks are under $200CAN I believe without shipping or other fees).

 

what Would that thread colour be called? Is it an NCP thread?

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