aniceguy

out of all the rods I own I will say that the stcroix rods have by far the best service.,....

close to 40

20 things you can only say in public at Christmas dinner and get away with without having aunt bertha whoop ya or worse.................. 1. I prefer breasts to legs. 2. Tying the legs together keeps the inside moist. 3. Smother the butter all over the breasts. 4. If I don't undo my trousers, I'll burst! 5. I've never seen a better spread! 6. I fancy a little dark meat for a change. 7. Are you ready for seconds yet? 8. It's a little dry, do you still want to eat it? 9. Just wait your turn, you'll get some! 10. Don't play with your meat! 11. Stuff it up between the legs as far as it will go. 12. Do you think you'll be able to handle all these people at once? 13. I didn't expect everyone to come at the same time! 14. You still have a little bit on your chin. 15. How long will it take after you put it in? 16. You'll know it's ready when it pops up. 17. Just pull the end and wait for the bang. 18. That's the biggest bird I've ever had! 19. I'm so full; I've been gobbling nuts all morning. 20. Wow, I didn't think I could handle all that and still want more!

welcome to brampton west, that is pro development pro expansion of a tax base and has no real concern about the environment, we have been along side with our partners fighting to protect the corridor on the credit for years, finally Mississauga is about to pass a by law that is forward thinking and way ahead of its time.... The valley has a major deer population and there is some brief discussion of the need one day for a cull....but who knows on that

I did Dan I ll have to review the membership soon lmao Jokin Actually l wish we saw more of you at club events. Marcus Anglers need to sometimes self police each other I dont suggest any radical methods but simply talking and educating them on the merits of what they are doing. Thankfully the Credit saw its largest year of Natural reproduction due to the monumental task of transfering 1000 or so fish up river, this year was the year we were to see massive numbers of smolts and a major increase in first yr returning fish...Happily we saw both proving that the N shore tributaries are some of the most prolific on the face of the planet, something many Im sure are not aware. Our N shore rivers are capable of densities of fish smolts in the 1.sqM which is huge, one of the reasons those that fish trout are so passionate about them, as we all see when some sort of controversial post comes up' Marcus the club always wants and needs new blood to help visit the site and see where you can help, I usually have some lit that I hand out around nook season You ll find that those that use the Credit for the angling opportunites that the chinook provide differ generally from those that use it for Steelhead While your topic header is usually correct in the case of the Credit it's not. The river is on the verge of becoming the premier go to Ontario steelhead destination and something that should be envied by conservation groups governmental agencies and anglers. A river that with only the govt stocking would get 800 fish in it now boasts 5-7 k of fish thanks to craa and with the final window on two projects a fish way and the completion of the environmental assessment for s species partition it should see a return of 15 to 20 k. A remarkable acheivement not done anywhere in North America

first trib looks mint...I knew I should have not worked today

always a funny view http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff122/j...itcake_Lady.flv

nice catch.........memorable day eh

sadly not after today, Ishould have keep that system tony the IMX didnt like clean line a crunchin we will go

3 pn combo's here 1 has ande 8 tournament on it and I swear by it have had some tanks beached abrasion and castability are mint... 2 has sigalon 12 on it and it fishes ok until around 2 in the afternoon when line twist comes into it, not very abrasion proof and sorta feels like rope IMO but its a bigger water stick that has ultra green as a leader and if its floro its 10 lb 3. trilene sensation in 8lb...only been on it for 1 trip so I cant really give it a fair shot but it did beach fish, had no line twist and floated pretty nice I will fish it tomm, maybe even today ( if I can get the motivation)

wow I cant believe you actually told me to leave my boat on the trailer lol........I dont even know how I can respond to that LMAO wow....Im still chuckling....

Port D what else can be said then what was said......I had a boat 2 boats ago that had a dozen dents from some shore anglers thinking they own the river and figure its ok to cast at my boat that was pretty much straght into the middle of the place.....even a few weeks back when we were very cautious of the shore anglers we still had a few OZ come close to hitting the boat...and it was on purpose of that I have no doubt. I have fished off the shore there many a time and never really had an issue ( of course continual casting over ones line isnt an issue there I guess ) but get on a boat and forget it the entire dynamics change where some and Im not slamming anyone or anythign like that but some of the shore anglers think its ok to brush off a boat with an OZ of lead. Shore trash in some cases at its finest

I have some work I need done Figured I would start here first Pm me

thanks Cliff, makes for a terrific reminder of the day

who hooks herring in simcoe man I gotta show you some new places to punch holes

With this bonus of fall Im taking any opportunity to fish for these pesky green backed fish......While the boat get winterized tomm, happily I have many a friend to offer the boat for additional use....Seems like a window of weather this week so hopefully I ll go fish em in between all the steelhead of course Soon I ll miss these green backs and solely focus on the blue backs.... WHile the weather man has given some awsome fall windows, I still have managed more then a few outings on steelies.....some of the memorable fish from a pictorial aspect

I have heard the oposite with a few friends fast service and bang on... I broke a loomis rod and I sent it....Paid the 35 bucks and got a sweet gl2 and its on route back, the entire process took 2 weeks. Now my experince with st croix was even better, broken rod left in the retailer 1 day new top end delivered the next for free. Personally I ll stick to st croix sadly though they have gotten out of the long stick game

glad that brown unhooking at the side of the boat wasnt the fault of the net boy

Ya like that mug shot eh misfish!! Good story too

mind posting some info on Salmon using the ladder....

nice gerritt, nothing like fall smallies in big water....Simcoe is a unique fishery with big big toads but now you have to experience erie when those 4's get tossed because they are small......and if you time it right and are on the spots 3-4's till your arm litterly falls off this time of year....

what salmon are in the lake wont reproduce in the grand and as the dam is an unpassable barrier to Salmon and there is no suitable spawing or juvinile habitat below, the rainbows you do catch are all wild fish that are reproducing above it...in 100 years or so the grand strain will be a genetically unique species to the great lakes so protecting them now is crucial.

always winterize a boat regardless of where its stored. If I know I wont use my boat for a few weeks I ll fog the engine....

I had this sitting aroundd posted it on another site in 2004 hope it helps WINTERIZING YOUR OUTBOARD I often hear people say they never stored their motor in the past, why should they spend time and money doing something if it doesn't need it? The reality is, improper off season storage of an outboard motor has cumulative effects. During the off season, engine components can and do rust — the extend of which depends on what fuel mixture was last running in the engine, and the heat and humidity the engine is stored in. When rust forms, it creates pitting in the metal — specifically, the hardened steel surfaces the needle bearings in modern engines utilize. When the engine is started each spring, the rust is washed away and the pitting remains until one year, the bearing calls it quits and a rod exists through the side of the block. Many people don't associate rod failure with poor engine storage because the failure often takes place in the middle of summer and no connection is made to poor storage practices. Naturally, when this happens, they'll blame the engine manufacturer instead of placing the blame squarely where it belongs. Modern engines, especially oil injected ones, have so little oil in them when the key is turned off, that maintenance issues are no longer an ‘if', but a ‘when' scenario. It doesn't take much math to figure out that current oil injected outboards can run on as little as one cup of oil to five gallons of gasoline. Given that current oils are designed to lubricate and burn cleanly, (not coat and protect from rust), it's more important than ever to properly store your outboard motor and protect your investment. Bearing issues aside, the are other items that need to be addressed too so let's get started: All Models To prevent condensation in the fuel tank and prevent breakdown of the fuel during storage, let's fill those fuel tanks with gas and add the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer (follow directions on the label for storage). So why stabilize the fuel? The current shelf life of today's fuels is pegged at about three months. After that, the additives begin to separate, the octane level drops, and the gas begins the process of ‘going bad' and varnishing fuel system components (including gumming up the carb). Since most of us are going to lay the boat up for about 6 months, this step is just as important as the others in ensuring trouble free boating next summer. Bring the engine up to operating temperature and allow enough time for the stabilizer to reach the carbs (10-15 minutes at idle, or 3 minutes at wide open throttle). Since portable steel tanks were used for many years with outboard motors, visually inspect for water in the bottom of any steel tank(s) using a flashlight. If water is found (round globs on the bottom of the tank), dump the tank and flush thoroughly. If rust is evident, the tank should be disposed of and replaced with a new plastic style. In the water, or on a pair of earmuffs (to supply the engine with water), do the following: For carbureted engines with a maintenance valve (newer OMC's): Attach engine fogger to maintenance valve fitting (looks like a tire air valve -- check your owners manual for location). Start engine and bring RPM to about 1500. Push and hold the release button on the fogger and continue holding until a steady thick white smoke appears out the exhaust. Depending on the size of the engine, this should consume about a half a can of fogging oil. Turn the engine off immediately after you're finished fogging (to ensure as much fogger as possible remains in the engine) and remove the fogger from the maintenance valve. For carbureted engines without a maintenance valve (common for most brands and years): Depending on the engine make a model, there is either removable plastic plugs in the breather cover, small holes in the breather, or no breather at all. Since we have to spray the fogger directly into the carb throats, determine how you are going to gain access to them before you get started. If the engine is equipped with removable plugs, pop them all out now. If there are pre-drilled access holes, locate them and ensure you have as many holes as there are carb throats. If there are no plugs or pre-drilled holes, simply remove the breather cover to gain access. Install the straw adapter that came with the can of fogging oil and bring the engine up to 1500 RPM. While holding down on the release button of the fogger, spray fogging oil into each carb throat for a 3-5 seconds, then move onto the next throat. Keep going from carb to carb until a steady thick white smoke appears out the exhaust. Depending on the size of the engine, this should consume about half to 3/4 of a can of fogging oil. Turn the engine off immediately after you've finished fogging (to ensure the fogger remains in the engine). For engines that are injector remove the plugs and shoot about !/2 the can through out all of the cylinders re install the plugs and turn the engine over a few cranks All Models Pull the boat out of the water (or remove the ear muffs) and keep the motor in a vertical position for at least ten minutes to ensure all water is drained from the block and passages (outboard motors are self draining and require no anti-freeze for storage). If possible, the engine should be stored in an upright position in the coldest condition possible (rust processes are slowed considerably at low temperatures, and no humidity to promote rust exists below freezing). The worst place to store your outboard is in your basement beside your furnace — high humidity and warmth will seize an engine in no time. For those that may be storing for extended periods of time or in warm humid conditions, you might want to remove the spark plugs and squirt some additional 2 stroke engine oil or fogger into the cylinders, then roll the engine over by hand to thoroughly coat everything. Re-install the plugs to minimize condensation during the storage period. Storing the carbs wet or dry? Today's carburetors utilize many neoprene, rubber, and alcohol resistant materials. Draining the fuel system for storage can put these parts at risk by allowing the materials to dry out and crack. Most (if not all) manufacturers recommend the carbs be left ‘wet' — that is, they fuel is stabilized and left in the carb during the storage period. If the engine will be stored on its side, or will be traveling in a vehicle before lay-up, it may be best to drain the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel line while fogging the engine, then continue to fog until the engine runs out of fuel (choking just as it's dying will get the last bit of fuel out). Gearcase Oil Change At a minimum, we want to inspect the gear oil before storage because if water is present in the gearcase, it can freeze and crack the case when the temperature falls (not to mention your gears and bearings will rust too). As long as we're there anyway, why not change it now too so we have one less thing to do in the spring when we're busy trying to get back on the water as fast as we can? Most brands have easy to find drain and vent screws. The drain/fill screw is usually located just beneath the ‘bullet' shape of the gearcase, while the vent/overflow screw is located just above the anti-ventilation plate (often incorrectly called the cavitation plate). Pull both screws and inspect the quality of the gear oil while it drains. WARNING: Do not pull the screw with the philips (star) headed screw. This part (the pivot pin) cannot easily be re-installed properly without disassembling the gearcase. White or creamy oil indicates you have water contamination. If you find this condition, have a dealer perform a pressure and vacuum test on the gearcase. It should go without saying that if nothing but water comes out of the oil cavity, you're likely in need of something more than seals. Grey oil usually indicates a failure of some sort has occurred in the lower unit (chipped gears or bearing failure). In some cases, prolonged use of the same oil can lead to the same oil condition. If you find you're oil is grey with a very strong odour, see your dealer for service and advice. Black oil indicates all is OK, you're just a bit overdue on your change cycle. As a benchmark for future the future, gear oil should be changed every 50-100 hours of operation, or at least once annually — whichever comes first. Many gearcases utilize a magnet on the drain screw. It's is normal to see a collection of fine metals filings, but if you find metals chunks, it's best to have the unit looked at by a professional. Which gear oil to use? If you have an electric shift gearcase (common in the sixties), you need a special oil called OMC Premium Blend (used to be called ‘Type C'). Failure to use this oil will result in a failure of the electromagnetic shift system this system utilizes. All other gearcases (including hydro-electric shifts) will operate on a hypoid 90 weight oil. OMC's Hi-Vis brand fits the bill nicely, and if you really want to extend gear life and protect if the unit is contaminated with water, I strongly recommend OMC's HPF synthetic gear oil. When in doubt, follow your engine manufacturers recommendations. Re-filling the gearcase (do NOT leave it empty for the storage period): To start with, let's install new gaskets or o-rings on our fill screws (cheap insurance to save grief down the road). Next, many manufacturers supply their oil in soft squeezable bottles, or optional hand pumps can be purchases for larger containers. Whatever method you choose, fill from the bottom hole until it comes out the top hole. Install the top screw, then remove filler from the bottom and quickly install the screw there as well. Torque the screws and wipe off the excess oil. Speaking of excess oil, please make sure you dispose of the old oil in an environmentally responsible manner. Batteries. I strongly recommend the batteries be removed entirely from the boat, but if you're one of those types who leaves them in, at least disconnect them (ALL CABLES). Turning the battery switch off is not good enough. Next, clean the terminals and tops of the batteries as any moisture or dirt will allow cross discharge between the posts. The batteries should be stored in a cool, dry place. Warm humid storage will promote cross discharge through the air. Charge the batteries at least every two months. Watch your water levels and top up as necessary. A good battery will give a least five full years of service. One more thing to try and kill an urban legend: Storing your battery on a concrete floor will not hurt your battery. Hull: Where I live, the water is clear and the algae growth minimal (God's country). We don't even bother cleaning the boats until spring, and even then, a good scrubbing and spray brings them back to nearly new. I will recommend hydrochloric (muriatic) acid for those stubborn stains and water lines, but be careful -- that stuff is mighty toxic to the lungs and corrosive to skin. Apply it with a paint tray and roller, let stand for 10 minutes, then rinse off. Water will quickly neutralize the acid. Don't forget to store your boat bow high and remove all drain plugs. It would be a shame if you found a split hull in the spring (well, not for me and my fellow marina operators ). If possible, store your tops in a warm place at home. While the new synthetics are quite durable, the older vinyls and viewtex (clear plastic) don't like the cold. Obviously, a good wash and rinse is recommended before storage. If the boat is going to be outside, it's not that tough (or expensive) to build a wooden frame (using the tent pole method with bailing twine to support). A suitable sized tarp is the best investment you can make and it can last for years if properly tied when on (to prevent flapping in the wind) and properly stored during the summer. Shrink wrapping is expensive, and not reusable.

Wild cookville creek is one that we are begining to work on as we speak, if you would like to get involved and steer it in the direction of yet another successful cold water restoration let me know