Raycaster

I took my remote apart originally to look for damage and it appeared flawless. No water, no corrosion, no burnt parts...perfect. Instead of replacing I finally hit a site that mentioned the dimensions are slightly different and the contact areas don’t 100% match. The positive pad varies in size etc. I took out the digital calibers and found this to be true but never seemed enough to cause contact problems but switching different brands with slightly different forms did fix my problems. I found it was hit or miss and $$$ wasn’t a factor. It could be cheap sunbeams or expensive energizer, the exact form design was the ticket. Find 2 that work and put the spare in the tackle box!

Im with Dave on saving money but last year my remote was acting up (turning off quickly, not connecting etc.). Some sites were saying that the different brands have slightly different dimensions causing some remotes not to work properly.

Headed out of Jordon (water low so launch process was sketchy and slow) but I was the only one there so no hurry. Water was a little choppy to start but smoothed out at 10am for a perfect day. Started season losing the downrigger ball right away so dipseys and shallow water it was... One day I will tell the story of when a first mate reads you the water temp 57F instead of the water depth 35ft... I was given the old Walker downrigger last year so the line needed replacing anyways. I headed south and zigzagged 40ft to 70ft and the sonar was empty most of the day. No fish, slight sunburn but overall a good day considering what its like out right now.

First launch of season, any tips? Its my 2nd season on Lake Ontario and still learning the ropes. My plans are to stay shallow. Any help always appreciated.

I think most guys look at their wallet to see the biggest possible! I was guilty.

I think the “ballpark” quote when looking for a trolling motor is 2lbs thrust for every 100lbs of boat weight. Please don't quote me on that... You wont be breaking speed records for sure.

And then you have to factor in boat size, wind, current.

I 100% agree with Fisherman too. I went down the rabbit hole trying to figure out the math and was shocked that it didnt even come close to adding up. There is a youtube or 2 of electric small boats zooming around but they have roofs with a dozen panels. A small trolling motor can draw over 30 amps easy...

Update: Got a email from FlexAFab"The order has been cancelled". Waiting on Parker Plastic estimate, thinking it just might be too small a project during covid when every company is scrambling for kiosk screens etc. May give P & A Plastics a call to at-least order the material as it may end up being a DIY in the end. Boats not going anywhere anyways so no monster rush, still have a 3 level deck project going in the backyard so I'm a little busy.

If you are getting really bored.... pick up some prime lenses! I have been out of the dslr game for awhile but I always remember my 135 Prime needing zero photoshop time. For hockey or baseball the 400 4.0 rocked too.

Thx Dan, sent a quote request Friday so hopefully they will get back to me next week.

Its a fairly simple DIY project but $300 or so for a decent replacement isn't bad. Hopefully Parker Plastics will get back to me...

Thx guy, will inquire now. Only 1hr drive, perfect.

Locating the proper material is tough but the actual fab looks do able. Just would hate to spend $200 on “glass” and crack it when fab places will do it for under $400.

Was pointed towards a plastic fabrication shop online in Quebec FlexAFab and inquired last month about fabricating a simple windshield replacement for my Legend 164. Their reply was quick and estimate price with shipping was in my budget. PAplastics is 20 minutes from my home but they only offered bronze color plexi and I wanted “smoke” which FlexAFab had. Its a simple design with 3 bends (no curves) and anything close to 1/4” of the measurements would be just fine. I would do it myself but sourcing the plexi is tough. This is when things got weird. I sent nice sketchup diagrams and photo examples but was told CAD diagrams were preferred. Told them CAD was overkill but sent them CAD files anyways. A week went by of silence so I emailed wondering about a invoice or something. I got a quick reply that a invoice will be sent and the drawings are with the “engineers”. Felt strange that no upfront cash was needed to start job but ok... Anyways, 3 weeks go bye so I email just inquiring about eta with a total understanding of delays due to covid. Tumbleweeds..... Ok, time goes bye and a shoot them another polite email “just inquiring” noting they may be very busy but just a heads up would be appreciated... Tumbleweeds.... Ok, from quick daily replies to radio silence for weeks. Send last email just “soft” cancelling the job since it appears they they are no longer interested. Tumbleweeds... Time to look elsewhere....

Thx for replies guys. Bayfront open, great.

The engine purrs and runs great but throttling down towards 2 mph especially with the current is tough. Perhaps the prop Is the wrong pitch or something but the install was simple so will see. Not sure if Hamilton Bayfront launch is open to give it a try.

Yup, fits no problem. Guess I have to take out to check speed. This video really opened my eyes to trolling speed:

Last year I fell in love trolling Lake Ontario for Salmon/Trout. Fairly poor results but with the help of members I have a list of suggestions to vastly improve this year. I only have a Legend 16’ with Mercury Bigfoot 25hp so weather is a big consideration for available days. I also have a Minn Kota 80 terrova. Anyways, even though the engine is only 25hp getting down to 2.4 mph especially with the current is tough. I have used a home made drift sock that worked fine but I recently grabbed a trolling plate (happy trolling)on kijiji for and awesome price. Its in new condition and SOLID (not tin, thick aluminum) BUT its the Large model. My question is can I run the plate at 45 degrees instead of cutting it down? It appears to have 45 degree position that could save me from cutting. I read on other forums that a plate too big will kill gas mileage and require the engine to run hot. Im really hoping to stay minimum throttle. If I have to cut the plate I will but it would be a shame. Of course I will test first.

Trying to squeeze in some camping/fishing time and the first week of may is available. Unfortunately, Balsam PP is not open? So I am wondering being so early if I should bring the boat at all since most fish are OOS. Would not mind chasing pike if they are available... Actually never been to that park and unsure of boating facilities etc. Any help appreciated, thanks.

They secure on top of the carpet. They look like 3” x 18” slats of black plastic with countersunk holes to secure to bunks. I guess you use 3 or 4 per bunk. Still cant get over why these wood slide better than wet carpet or if these would mark the hull. BTW Dara, 2 new down-rigger rods came home with me so don't worry. Im biting at the bit for my second season on Lake Ontario.

Wire wheel is the correct answer, agreed.

They had 2 packs in stock (St. Catherines), one was $50 and the other $35. I still want to repaint trailer but not looking forward to grinding the old paint/rust off. Another thread but looking into those cheap sand blaster hopper guns at Prin - Auto.