Raycaster

Started a new thread concerning onboard charging. My "new to me" boat has a noco 4 bank charger that was connected to the 2 trolling batteries (dc group 27) and a cranking battery. Although I love the idea I was having problems with my trolling motor batteries so I took the charger out of the equation to find the fault. I replaced the trolling motor connector and the problem seems to have disappeared making the assumption the charger is fine. Is there any CON to re-hooking up the onboard charger? I'm always paranoid that since the trolling batteries are connected in series (24V Terrova) that this might confuse the charger even though the batteries are connected separately to the charger. Also, the boat also has a "House" battery that could also be connected to the charger but is not. Is there a reason it wouldn't be? Actually, the charger is missing the 4th cable that I have find (no luck yet) and purchase. I will add a wiring diagram later but it's nothing to crazy. It does include a (2+1) switch for the Cranking and House battery... Any thoughts welcome, thx.

OK, cut off the other connector and replaced with what I used on my last Minn Kota. I use a clunky welding connector but it worked flawless for years before and besides being non-waterproof they really work well when needed. The other detail was that I disconnected a onboard charger that was directly hooked to the batteries. The boat has a 4 bank noco charger hooked up to the 2 trolling batteries and 1 to the cranking battery. I may re-install the charger but I will make a separate thread for that. As Akrisoner mentioned the connector looked to be the culprit as the batteries now work like brand new! I trolled 8 hrs on Lake Ontario and started with 4 bars and ended with 3! It was just used for gps steering at speed 2, but I'm happy. Was kinda looking into new Lithium batteries but no need yet and my wallet is happier. Thank you for the help guys.

BillM, you may be right(probably) and my electrical math rusty but won't a 24V 100ah be equal to 2 @12v 100ah in series?

I was just thinking it would be optimal just to go 24V for my Terrova. Most people go the 12V 100ah and just run series like regular but it just seems sloppy if you know you need exactly 24V and not worried about having to crank the engine in an emergency..

This is a great topic with content. Just looking at this also as Im farting around with good/bad batteries. Are there disadvantages of just going to a 24v battery? Charger?

It could be the plug and receptacle for sure. It seems like a very professional setup with mesh sock on the cables etc. BUT strangely it is a 3 prong connector (a marine connector not extention cable type). I just assumed it was overkill and they didn't use one of the prongs. I will look at it today probably.

The tests are for voltage and cranking ability. They independently came back pretty close to each other. The batteries are basic flooded DC batteries 1 and 2 year old. Logically I think one of the batteries is done. unfortunately, I have not been able to look at the boats wiring yet. I might run over there today to take a look. It’s a pretty basic series circuit with breaker so I can’t image they fudged it up originally.

Batteries are within 10% of rated performance. Part Source and CT agree. OK, will check wiring when I get a chance, the game is afoot!

I have a 80 Terrova (2024) with 2 12V Group 27 batteries with a 18ft Legend. They run in series and have a proper breaker etc. My old Terrova 80 with 2 12V Group 27 batteries with a 16ft Legend lasted days of trolling... I know the new boat is alot heavier but... After fully charging both batteries the new Terrova shows only 3 bars for the batteries and after a hour or 2 shows no bars. The trolling motor is set at 2-4 speed just used really for gps steering. When I charge the batteries again 1 battery is basically charged already and the other takes 6-8hrs? Its like they were wired wrong but wouldn't the terrova complain about only 12V instead of 24V? I just took them to Part Source to check and they both got a "OK"? I expected 1 to be toast. I use a NOCO Gen2 2 Bank charger that has been awesome for me. Will have to check wiring on boat but will probably take batteries for a second opinion at crappytire. I understand the proper wiring etc. but assumed the previous owner did it right as it has nice connectors and a mesh sock over the cabling. BTW, the batteries are 2022 and 2023.

Ok, hard wired everything. Sender and ground good at console. results: guage.

I have grounded the fuel sender straight to the battery for testing. Today I will yank out the guage to test and get a 100% answer

Here’s a general description of the connections: Power (12V) Wire: Red Ground Wire: Black Sender Wire: Pink or Yellow Illumination Wire: Blue Ok, getting closer.

So I got the boat in the driveway making a few fixes... I hooked up the original fuel sender again and started testing it with the new one I purchased. Again the needle went to full with an empty tank. I removed from the tank and manual moved the ring to the top and bottom to see if the guage did anything. Well... It actually moved a little more past full! Not sure what the past owner did but it seems like it might be in reverse? I'm very tempted to reverse the cables on the Gas Guage but there are 4 wires to it. Ignition, ground, and wire from fuel sender. The 4th wire may be a light wire? Looking for a Legend Xcalibur 2007 wiring diagram before I screw something up.

Fuel gauge is reading past FULL on 1/4 tank or less on a used legend XCalibur. Google said "open circuit, probably replace fuel sender". Fuel sender is the rod version with the float position giving full 30 Ohms or 240 Ohms empty. I tested old fuel sender and it read 30 at the top and basically a inch from the bottom read 200 Ohms then nothing for the last 1/2 inch. Bought a replacement and it reads EXACTLY the same, hmm. Guess that is normal? Maybe my ohmmeter just went out of range at the end... The way I thought it should be is 30 Ohms at the top and 240 Ohms at the bottom. The boat is in storage so I just yanked the old one out to compare with the new one. So I'm down to 1) Gauge problem 2) wiring problem 3) a dud replacement. Its not rocket science and will figure it quickly when I get the boat in the driveway but if anyone has some quick pointers before that I'd appreciate it.

Hmmm…thank you for the reply I kinda thought that way. Flood the boat and empty and run quick tig beads. But Im a casual oldtimer stick welder so don’t really know. I do know welding thin aluminum is not easy, someone said a pulse tig is needed?

My boat has 2 one inch “cuts” in the bottom hull. The cuts are so thin it looks like an exacto knife cut. Anyways, I epoxied them and never had a leak. Now the Im selling I thought Id get them repaired. Took it to a aluminum welder and he said it wasnt possible because of the insulation inside and it would need removing. The job would be 2x what the boat is worth. Any thought? Any super welders in the area that could weld 2 two inch beads without the boat blowing up? Just may end up selling as-is but thought it would be an easier sale fixed…

Dave, unfortunately the Minn Kota Terrova 80 would be running close to 100% to run 2.4 - 3 on my 18ft deep v with a downrigger setup and 4 lines.

A drift bag on left and right sounds good to me.

I'm 100% with you Fisherman. The "tip" was from a Canadian fishing show, pretty sure it was a well known guy. As soon as I heard it I thought "Ya, that would work", but then the logic felt screwy. I have a Mercury 25hp that needs a trolling plate to get down to 2-2.8 no matter the trim.

Was watching a youtube fishing show and a tip was given to slow down bigger engines to 2mph was to run the bow mount trolling motor backwards? I guess this would work especially with a rudder extension... So just point the tm 180 degrees from your target destination? Left and Right adjustments from gps would be wrong though making it useless to steer? Just doesn't sound right although a rudder extension sounds ok. I see youtube guys strapping plastic cutting boards on the tm shafts... hmmm.

Thank you BillM, yes I have that pdf but was looking for the "service" manual. (parts etc.)

I was actually looking at the Mercury Vessel View module... interesting.

Just looking for a service manual for a 2006 Mercury 115ELPT 4 Stroke. Don't mind the cost just want to get the right one. I've ran across "Oh 2006 was not Mercury it was ..." etc. Probably needs lower gear seals etc. in the spring among other things and thought grabbing a service manual would be a good idea. Found the basic manual for the boat/engine on the Brunswick site but probably have to buy the service manual. Online there are several options ebay/Etsy/ etc. but wondering if anyone here had success purchasing a older manual and could point me to a reliable site. Thx ahead. BTW, Happy Holiday's everyone and many thanks to all in the forums that have helped me along the way (there are many!)

I have a boat travel cover that needs some sewing and wondering about costs in the Hamilton area. Not any real rips just a long section has seams missing that need re-sewing. Anyone have recent work done? Is this going to get crazy expensive for an old canvas cover? (I know a new one won't be cheap either...)

That's great to know about the wrap, thank you. Got any pics of the wrap to share?