Raycaster

Locating the proper material is tough but the actual fab looks do able. Just would hate to spend $200 on “glass” and crack it when fab places will do it for under $400.

Was pointed towards a plastic fabrication shop online in Quebec FlexAFab and inquired last month about fabricating a simple windshield replacement for my Legend 164. Their reply was quick and estimate price with shipping was in my budget. PAplastics is 20 minutes from my home but they only offered bronze color plexi and I wanted “smoke” which FlexAFab had. Its a simple design with 3 bends (no curves) and anything close to 1/4” of the measurements would be just fine. I would do it myself but sourcing the plexi is tough. This is when things got weird. I sent nice sketchup diagrams and photo examples but was told CAD diagrams were preferred. Told them CAD was overkill but sent them CAD files anyways. A week went by of silence so I emailed wondering about a invoice or something. I got a quick reply that a invoice will be sent and the drawings are with the “engineers”. Felt strange that no upfront cash was needed to start job but ok... Anyways, 3 weeks go bye so I email just inquiring about eta with a total understanding of delays due to covid. Tumbleweeds..... Ok, time goes bye and a shoot them another polite email “just inquiring” noting they may be very busy but just a heads up would be appreciated... Tumbleweeds.... Ok, from quick daily replies to radio silence for weeks. Send last email just “soft” cancelling the job since it appears they they are no longer interested. Tumbleweeds... Time to look elsewhere....

Thx for replies guys. Bayfront open, great.

The engine purrs and runs great but throttling down towards 2 mph especially with the current is tough. Perhaps the prop Is the wrong pitch or something but the install was simple so will see. Not sure if Hamilton Bayfront launch is open to give it a try.

Yup, fits no problem. Guess I have to take out to check speed. This video really opened my eyes to trolling speed:

Last year I fell in love trolling Lake Ontario for Salmon/Trout. Fairly poor results but with the help of members I have a list of suggestions to vastly improve this year. I only have a Legend 16’ with Mercury Bigfoot 25hp so weather is a big consideration for available days. I also have a Minn Kota 80 terrova. Anyways, even though the engine is only 25hp getting down to 2.4 mph especially with the current is tough. I have used a home made drift sock that worked fine but I recently grabbed a trolling plate (happy trolling)on kijiji for and awesome price. Its in new condition and SOLID (not tin, thick aluminum) BUT its the Large model. My question is can I run the plate at 45 degrees instead of cutting it down? It appears to have 45 degree position that could save me from cutting. I read on other forums that a plate too big will kill gas mileage and require the engine to run hot. Im really hoping to stay minimum throttle. If I have to cut the plate I will but it would be a shame. Of course I will test first.

Trying to squeeze in some camping/fishing time and the first week of may is available. Unfortunately, Balsam PP is not open? So I am wondering being so early if I should bring the boat at all since most fish are OOS. Would not mind chasing pike if they are available... Actually never been to that park and unsure of boating facilities etc. Any help appreciated, thanks.

They secure on top of the carpet. They look like 3” x 18” slats of black plastic with countersunk holes to secure to bunks. I guess you use 3 or 4 per bunk. Still cant get over why these wood slide better than wet carpet or if these would mark the hull. BTW Dara, 2 new down-rigger rods came home with me so don't worry. Im biting at the bit for my second season on Lake Ontario.

Wire wheel is the correct answer, agreed.

They had 2 packs in stock (St. Catherines), one was $50 and the other $35. I still want to repaint trailer but not looking forward to grinding the old paint/rust off. Another thread but looking into those cheap sand blaster hopper guns at Prin - Auto.

Just visited BP with burning gift cards in my pocket and noticed bunk slides $50. I only have a 16ft aluminum non deep hull and its pretty light but I'm all in for anything that could save trailer time launch or hassle. I've seen YouTube guys make them out if plastic cutting boards cheap but wouldn't you need Teflon or something? I know some PAM sprayed on the carpet bunks would slick them up but just wondering if anyone has installed bunk slides.

Its crap wood underneath...

Ive seen the lvp bending technique etc. and everything seems do able but this may be the first reno I may pass on. I’m the family guy that usually gets called to fix and build everything but common sense may be calling... There are a lot of details to the job that together are making the job out of reach. The LVP nosing would save money but I need end caps. The spindles add complexity worrying about height adjustment, and how to secure cleanly. The treads also have a custom CURVE (not just length) ever stair. There are solutions but is it worth it? I don’t mind going into “MacGyver Mode” but I also don’t want to spend $2000 or more bucks on a half a$$ job.

Wife gave me the go ahead to rip up 80’s carpet on stairs. I’m a handy guy and do most home renovations so hoping to do “economically” myself. I consider myself a intermediate “woodworker” but hoping others here maybe in the trade had suggestions. I want to stay under $3000 and thinking the Luxury Vinyl Planks may keep the price down. The material looks bendable for custom noses saving a ton of money also. Im retired and if it takes a month then so be it...no rush. I have 2 major concerns that no “easy to do youtube videos” show: 1) Damn rails that basically have to save. The winding stairs are open so end cuts seen. 2) Big curve landing step. I have a router table etc. and all the tools, if anyone has taken this on and has tips I’d appreciate feedback, thanks.

Doing a little research but wondering if Garmin Units using "Active Captain" can mirror their screens on Tablets? Example: Using a 10" tablet at the back of the boat showing garmin sonar from a device at the console? From what I have read it sounds like owners have to jump through hoops and register online accounts etc. Also, there are conflicting report concerning maps etc. and the "mirror tablet" has no control function. The cheap Raymarine WI-FISH works easily, may be a bit dated but looks like I may stick with it.

Bill, Zooming in or out on a map usually takes 30 seconds to redraw the screen. I have the DragonFly 4 but its just used to turn on or off. I use a ipad at the front and Android tablet at the back. Some of the time navionics will be on the android device as the ipad doesn't have true gps. Yes the tablets viewing isn't great in direct sunshine but workable. Still love the Raymarine but features like side imaging would be nice.

I love my Raymarine Dragonfly that allows me to run off any mobile device I have. I presently run it off a old iPad and android tablet on the boat. Being able to spend $500 on the raymarine and then use 2 cheap 10” devices on the boat is right in my budget. I see most 10” units going for over $1000 so its pretty sweet. The unit is getting older and the maps are slow so I was wondering if there are any other options? Raymarine seems to have moved away from the lower end market?

The “connections” feature basically allows you the ability to invite other users to post their boats gps on your map. Once they “accept” I think their boat position would be updated on your maps for 24hrs. So you could easily find your buddy on a lake if fishing in different boats etc. It would be a great safety feature if someone got lost etc. I can definitely see using this with friends if this works like I think it does... https://www.navionics.com/usa/features/connections

Rerouted vent pipe today, tomorrow will start humidifier. Now that Im convinced I can squeeze in it above the A Coil it should be straight forward. The 600 unit looks like a standard bypass unit. The 700 has a fan , remote tmp sensor and digital humidity sensor with control. Has the option of controlling the furnace fan also etc. Not too much more than a standard bypass but a few more details Im just triple checking. Will install tomorrow and just need to order some 1/4” copper tubing for the hot water supply. Instructions are specific using hot water.

Yes I will be using 1/4" copper off the hot water line, seems like a lot of wasted water...

Thank you for the reply. I think I can squeeze it in above the A Coil barely. I diagrams are a little out of scale so its hard to show but look do able... (Stage 1) - Moving vent pipe today

So speaking to a hvac guy... Yes I can reroute vent. There will be a A Coil right there that I must be careful of. Damn, its looking more and more like plan C...

Had a new furnace installed last year and everything great but now in winter we definitely need a humidifier as throats are sore etc... Bought a AprilAir 700 and looked easy enough to install, I'm a pretty handy guy. But...before cutting into the furnace I'm hoping for a few hints as my furnace is providing obstacles figuring out where to mount things. 1) Right away my obvious 1st choice spot is blocked by a 2" venting pipe! Can I just simply reroute this pipe? Is there a code limit to bends? I would use proper gas fitting etc... 2) Second choice is almost too tight and maybe not even possible. 3) The cold air return looks EASY but this seems like plan C and seems dumb... 4) I am concerned that on the opposite side of the the first choice location (if I reroute vent pipe) has 3 AC? 1 is insulated, 1 is copper line and one is a 1" drain? I have a nephew that does HVAC that I will bug later for confirmation but this shouldn't be so tough... I think my old one took an hours to install...