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Yup I'm positive 2 separate pumps. I'll try and track down some schematics to see if there is a diverter or something. Thanks.

thx for the reply. I have the DW drain hose currently looped to the top of the DW and back down straight through the floor into the ABS and across. I'm good height wise as far as I know. I'm confident my drain pump is working, but I'm wondering if I pooched the wash pump due to running it dry so many times.

Ok guys here goes it. Put in a dishwasher in a temporary spot in the kitchen until we redo it. It currently sits across the room from any plumbing. I decided to route the drain line from the DW through the floor, into a trap and across the basement and tap into the kitchen drain below the trap. First mistake: I didn't make a high enough loop behind the DW and although it worked most of the time, it ended up draining out during the cycle and I think I may have ruined the pump. Pretty sure that putting it below the kitchen trap could cause a siphon as well. Since then I've made as loop as high as the cabinet behind the DW and it does down & across (no trap) and just into the laundry tub for the last week. It is still intermittently running out of water during the cycle. I can see it slowly trickling out before the drain cycle and it runs dry until the drain cycle kicks in and goes back. So I'm wondering... 1. Is my pump shot? There shouldn't be any siphoning happening as its an open drain below and has a high loop behind the DW now. 2. Do I need to run ABS up behind the DW and install an air gap and trap to stop the siphoning? (then I could tap into the kitchen drain below its trap) 3. Could there be something else wrong with the DW? Anyhow there's my story. Let me know what you think.

All I was wondering if someone has a plumbing background if I could shoot them a PM. Have some questions about an oddball setup for running a dishwasher drain line. Thanks.

With 2 guys and a casting deck, battery, trolling motor....I bet around 12-14mph Can it hold a 15? That would get you around 20+ with 2 people. 25 with just you...that might be a little scary though in a 12. Do you plan on fishing with the boat loaded and with a buddy most of the time? Now's the time to research and decide man...its a big purchase and the last thing you want is to be disappointed with it.

I would go with the Lowrance HDS-7 or HDS-8 in your case. Compare them side by side if you want. You'll notice right away how much better the sonar abilities are. I don't like Humminbirds graph. I've never had an issue calling them for support and they have been helpful.

With how light the 4 strokes are becoming I wouldn't even consider a 2 stroke anymore. I believe the smaller Mercury outboards are made by Tohatsu.

I'd go with a Honda or Yamaha. Merc would be a close 3rd choice. That's just personal preference. I don't think you can really go wrong with a small motor like that. Like others mentioned warranty and local parts is a big plus. If the 12 can hold a 15hp I would consider that though. Same weight and don't you have a casting deck etc on it as well? Might like that extra power if it has a deck and a couple of big guys in there.

That's what I'm wondering too

I wish I could get back up there sometime this fall!

Yup that looks good and a great idea! For my setup I made a small 2 gauge link to the battery from the breaker but had to put some pieces of plastic in between the breaker terminals because those ring terminals were awfully close to touching each other.

Does that include GLoomis?

I totally agree. I took my boat to a small lake outside of town that only had one launch. It was 6:30 at night and they charged me $12 to launch. Worst part is that it was terrible fishing. Never going back. Its sad but true....if people will pay, owners will charge.

If you can find me a hoist to use I would gladly to yours as well! Its my only frustration trying to rust-proof with the ramps and jack stands

Randy what gun would you recommend? I've never seen another one around here that has the hose attachments etc.

Is the battery at the back of the boat? Let us know how long the run is and what gauge wire.

You should check how long of a run it is to your battery and the gauge of the wire. If its small wire its possible its degraded over time with the heat. If its only happening now my money is on a bad connection somewhere. Re-tighten all your battery and plug connections. It is possible something has become loose inside the top of the motor as well but start with the connections.

MTP what size breaker are you using? What gauge wire do you have run to the battery from the motor? A 55V2 will need a 50amp breaker minimum. Check all your connections to make sure they are solid.

That said, someone with a 15hp 1970's 2 stroke leaking & burning oil could possibly do much more harm than those guys.

I think TSC usually carries the pails of it as does John Deere dealers. http://www.tscstores.com/stage/mainhome.php#loadFG_13402

#9 on page 62 of the NAPA flyer. $51 bucks comes with hoses and everything. http://www.napacanada.com/flashpublication/Promotions/EN/Catalogue3/ I get the cans of Fluid Film and spray my car. Much better product than the Krowns/Rust Checks of the world.

Yup the little guys out of a clean lake taste quite nice!

The Terrova is the best there is for an electric-steer motor. Congrats!

I feel that 4 gauge is the minimum someone should use for running the cables from the back to the front of the boat. You experience too much resistance and voltage loss using a thinner gauge and risk heating up the wires and straining the battery and trolling motor. 6 gauge would work for a 30lb motor but bigger wire is better. As you get into 24V and 36V trolling motors the amp-draw is less because the volts are higher. A 12V 55lb trolling motor draws around 50amps. Remember most runs will be at least 30 feet (you need to factor the total circuit length! (there and back) http://bestboatwire.com/catalog/includes/languages/english/wire_gauge_chart.html

So how did it go?