scugpg

Just don't have the space with the big tiller back there as well not to mention the weight for the 9.9. Will have to go with the egg beater

Did it vibrate the entire boat? Or just visible on the motor itself?

Please take me fishing! Great job you guys

Buy a CTEK charger if the battery isn't too big. It works excellent and will charge just about anything. $49 at CT when its on sale.

That is reasonable then thanks for your reply! 5-7mph is probably the max hull speed anyhow for that size. I'm wondering about getting a built-in or external tank model. I suspect the 1 gallon built in could last several hours at WOT. How do you find stowing the motor out of the water? I guess the other option is to set it straight and steer with the main motor. The 8hp is about 25lbs heavier and probably won't fit on the back anyhow. From what I read Yamaha used to make a 6hp twin, but it was as heavy as the 8.

Thanks for the reply. can anyone comment on how these single cylinders run?

That is everything included. Think the boat is around 650 dry.

I'm thinking of tracking down a 6hp 4 stroke as a kicker motor...for safety and for higher speed trolling. The 8hp is sweet but from a size and weight perspective I don't think an 8hp will work out. However I had a couple questions: 1. Do the 4 stroke single cylinder kickers vibrate/run rough? From what I've read you can't get a twin in less than an 8hp 4 stroke and the singles can be rough. 2. How fast would a 6hp push a boat that weighs around 1100lbs? Hoping to have a top speed of 6-7mph Thanks!

No problem. I actually found some Aluminum rims on sale today at a good price...those would probably be better as they are cast instead of stamp/welded. Oh well they are working well now.

Update: Went to PA and found a set that had a different design to them. They are much better. One has just a slight wobble and the other is almost perfect. They took half as much weight to balance as the original ones I had....which were over 3oz. From what I can tell the quality of trailer rims just isn't 100% true. I suspect if most took a close look at their wheels they would see this. Thanks again DanD for all your help!

Sounds like a short with the running lights on the trailer. Double check all the wiring you can get to. If you disconnect the drivers trailer light can you get running lights on the passenger side?

Hmm maybe the parking lamps are causing the issue? Duf you have the lights on when the car was off and you were testing the signal and brakes?

Do you have a volt meter to see if the trailer plug at the hitch is getting juice and ast the back of the trailer?

Yes I would needed the net. Was in wisconsin last week and wish I got the stowmaster now. Is there any where aside from jb's that have them? Maybe a shop near pt huron?

Went over to DanD's shop this afternoon and sure enough the new rims are also out at least 1/8 of an inch. tested the dial gauge on one hub and it was 2000th of an inch out so I think its safe to say I got 4 bad rims. At this point I'm tempted to go to ct or pa and buy a few....whatever ones are truest I'll keep.

Verified with vendor today that I'm running the correct bearings and races to be sure. Going to put the new rims on the balancer tonight and also check the hubs again to see what the culprit(s) is and get this figured out.

That is the real message here....its not right that your family had to be exposed to such graphic material involuntarily. I don't understand how they can be allowed to walk around with those signs as mentioned above no different than nudity/language/violence etc. There are more useful ways of protesting. Its nice to see this thread continue constructively...very good points in here.

The price jump from HDS 7 to 8 is high, but from 5 to 7 isn't as bad from what I've researched. If you want to see sonar and chart at the same time, the 5 will be really small.

Yes we need to get out sometime its been a while! So what do you guys think? Just some bad luck with a batch of wheels?

I put the spare on today (which has been sitting for several years) on to see what it looked like. That one had a bit of wobble but seemed to be signifigantly less than the new ones. Not bad considering its been sitting for so long. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJAL_J5NJ5Y

I put a straight edge against just the hub and spun it around several times and it seems consistent around the outside hub face. Maybe just a bad batch? New rims are the same design just galvanized.

Wer could see the wobble on the balancer after the rim and tire were balanced. Haven't put the new rims on the balancer yet. I'll check the hubs.

The ones without tires are brand new though and still wobbling. Either rim isn't true or something up with spindle etc. any ideas?

For "fun" this afternoon I took one of the rims and hub off to make sure the races are in tight...which they were. Put the old hubs on and noticed similar behavior. Repacked the bearings and put the new hub back on. Here's a video of the Rim & Tire (which we verified is way out on the balancer), and one of just the new rim. You can see a noticeable wobble. Like I said the hubs are tight but they wheels also spin very smoothly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9sThmkQGy8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyQKFG1ohI4

Its not a crazy wobble like its going to fall off but noticeable in rear view mirror maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch out