icefisherman

Derek I also got mine renewed today at Le Baron and was charged $23.79 for full license. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Hey Joey, now you are ice fishing movie star Good work on the huge carp and great start of the year. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Thanks for the picture Joey and for saving me the trouble of having to open a new thread for my report as it is not worth a new thread. Dinks, dinks and more dinks....I haven't done any perching last year and went only after the big guys and this is exactly what I'll do this year.......if we ever get ice on the big Lake that is. Today was my first and last perch ice fishing day for the season....remember only few years ago I was getting only fish over 10" for hours trip after trip in the same spot we were today. And for all the walking today.....more then 100 dinks./.. was very hard pressed to keep 15 half decent perch for my son to play with in the tub tonight....tons of perch, the LX-5 was like Christmas tree most of the day, but size is totally gone down the ....hole.... Thanks to Tony for the ride...and I'll be spending next few weeks working on my boat and.....waiting ;-) Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Congartulations Joey! Timing couldn't be better When are you taking me to the whities on Simcoe with it? Now who said anything about global warming? Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Wayne, When trolling Temagami last summer I got tons of lakers with 15-25 feet behind the ball 75-95 fow. I rarely go longer when Salmon fishing on lake O. or Eyes and bows fishing on Erie. The most I've done was in Algonquin on Opeongo....100-150 feet back and I was getting laker after laker....and few hyge bass too. So for me it is trying and testing it depending on the body of water and the fish modd for the day. But always start short and keep going longer depending on the bite. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Guys, someone has said truth is born in arguments. So I do appreciate your arguments/discussion as it helps me a lot to understand this issue. Brian thanks for the drawing. I'll save it for future reference. Here is what I just got emailed back to me from Yamaha tech support: Good afternoon: Hope this helps: Alternator output 4 Amps @ 1500rpm 10 amps @ 2400rpm 13 amps @ 4500rpm I've asked them about my kicker and this is their reply. It should answer some of your questions from the past few days about Amps at certain RPM. Dabluz, I'd rarely use the electric trolling motor. So depleting the second batter (kicker connected to it because of extensive use of electric trolling motor is non issue for me). The issue though is this....I am planning to connect to the same battery two electric riggers (Cannon MAG10 probably), so will the kicker be able to keep up with the use those two rigger will drain out of the battery during say....8 Hrs trolling? Using the numbers Yamaha gave me above, someone with electrical knowledge should be able to calculate what two riggers draw and what the kicker will be able to produce/charge at the same time? I know the ideal world may call for two starter batteries and two trolling batteries but I don't think I'll be so ideal in this case...don't like the extra weight/space I'll lose nor do I like to pay extra $200-$300 if I could avoid it by utilizing the two almost new deep cycle batteries I have on board right now. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Answer: Yamaha makes 8HP high thrust 4 stroke motor. Same as mine but mine is 9.9HP Cheers, Ice Fisherman

No gimmik at all. I've used mine for the past 3 years and have filleted countless fish with it...makes your job much easier and cleaner. Mine comes with AC/DC power and two blades....got it on sale at CT for less then $40 for the whole set. Will be perfect Christmas gift. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Ha ha ha Wayne, I like more your text (and especially your visual reply) this time. ;-) Considering the main battery (deep cycle) will have connected to it only: AM/FM (light draw) Nav. Lights (light draw) Interior Lights (light draw) Fishfinder (light draw) Livewell (moderate draw/continuous) Bildge (moderate draw/occasional) It should not get killed easily I hope. If it does...I can have those jumper cables or it is very easy (already tried that) to remove the other battery and bring it back to replace the dead main one in order to start the main motor. Just two nuts to unscrew and it is done. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Fisherman, got your idea about separating the draw between the two batteries and each motor having its own (deep cycle) battery. Having said that...why do I need isolator if each motor will have its own independent battery to charge and the two motors and the two batteries will not have any connectiong what so ever in between? Cheers, Ice Fisherman

I think we are getting there...together...that is until Wayne dumps another picture on me now ha ha ha Can't tell you how much I appreciate your input guys! Keram, would you agree that my kicker is not a "regular kicker"....been HIGHT THRUST kicker must mean something...i.e. running at higher RPMs than a normal kicker and been thrust model also having higher amperage output at lower RPMs because theese motors are designed to be kicker motors? Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Well Wayne, I knew you are pulling both my legs with that picture so I let it go ;-) What do you think about my solution just above though? I know ideally I should use starter batteries to start the motors but the deep cycle batteries I have should be able to start my motors fine I'd think right? And if I separate them as described above I will not have any extra wiring, ectra batteries, extra switchers/isolators etc. and the load should be not too heavy for each motor to charge its battery, right? Kind of.....everyone will be happy ;-) Your idea of adding two more starter batteries is fine...but that will add weight and will leave me with two deep cycle batteries for my electric trolling motor that I'll rarely use anyway....bit of money/payload/resources waste I'd think....? And then running the riggers from the starter battery while having two deep cycle batteries just sitting and doing nothing 99% ot the time?!? Would appreciate your comment ...even if it is done by posting another picture ;-))) Cheers, Ice Fisherman

To add something to the discussion. I keep saying the kicker is HIGH THRUST and seems like it was not considered. I was just told by a VERY GOOD FRIEND of mine ;-) (what would I do without him?!?): " The high thrust motor (lower gear ratio) will be running at higher RPMs than a normal kicker. I believe high thrust models also have higher amperage output at lower RPMs because they are designed to be kicker motors." I also think that despite it says 12V it actually produces more then that when running (just like any other 12V motor). Maybe Fisherman is right.... 1) Connecting the main motor to the main battery with Fishfinder, AM/FM, Nav. Lights, Interior Lights, Livewells, Bildge 2) Connecting the kicker motor to the second battery with Bow Mount Electric (rarely used), Downriggers, VHF. and keep them separate...main motor should have no problem charging the main battery enough while running. Kicker (been HIGHT THRUST) should have no problem keeping the second battery charged enough for running the downriggers and the VHF OR the electric trolling motor and VHF. I will never need the eletric trolling motor and downriggers used at the same time. So........what about this solution? Will it work? No need for any special wiring/switches/isolators/combiners etc.??? Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Keram, maybe this will answer the question about the RPM: http://www.yamaha-motor.ca/products/produc...up=O#contentTop and here: http://www.eastcarolinapowersports.com/new...p;CatDesc=& it says: Alternator Output 10A @ W.O.T. so maybe it is 6 amps at trolling speed?? You say it will not charge "any 12V battery" ........hmmmmm....why would Yamaha make a trolling motor (high thrust!) with electric start that can not charge any battery? Sure Yamaha knows that morot will often be used at trolling speed and therefore willneed to be used as charging device...what is the whole idea of having a motor that can not charge your battery...and how do other fisherman out there (must be thousands of them) that use the same motor as kicker charge their batteries?!? Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Fang, I bought 17'2" Lund. The electric trolling motor is 12V 55 Lbs thrust. I also bought (not installed yet) 9.9HP Yamaha Hight Thrust kicker for it that I'd like to use as charging motor while trolling, but also to use the main one (more powerful alternator?) to charge batteries while going full speed to the fishing spot...as sometime that fishing spot maybe good 45-60 min away... My batteries are indentical...both are same brand name,same age and both are deep cycle.... Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Well Terry, the new model (2007) of the same Yamaha T9.9 HP motor says: Alternator Output 12v / 6 Amps So I assume mine (2000 model year) would be the same? Also to add....both batteries are identical . Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Keram, I'll add (and have added) additional info as we go...as I wasn't sure what info is needed.... The main motor is 115HP Suzuki 2 stroke The kicker is 9.9HP Hight Thrust Yamaha 4 Stroke I don't mind chargint batteries home from time to time...but would like to have the capability to charge them from the motors as well while going full speed to the spot (with the main motor) and while trolling( with the Yamaha kicker). And I suspect it'll be complicated and costly but wanted to see what is involved first with my "ideal" case scenario and then if need be will change/downgrade requirements.... If any other info in needed let me know and I'll supply it but see my previous post for additional details on what I'd like to achieve. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Terry, I've seen a lot of setups on the web but could not find wiring diagram for my situation (two motors where either one is charging either/or both batteries). But from what I've seen I have a feeling I need not only isolator but also one of those guys: http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?cP...roducts_id=1375 The problem is how EXACTLY do I wire it all so both alternators are protected and I don't fry the kicker alternator...at the same time I could charge either battery or both at the same time from either motor. It gets a bit complicated when two motors get involved....I think....depending on the setup I may have to shut off engine one before starting engine 2....?? Just want to make sure I don't mess it all up and connect everything the right way... Also how many Amps switch or isolator do you think I'll need? When it's all set and one I'll have two electric riggers, two radios, one fishfinder, the bilge pump, the electric trolling motor and what ever other instruments on the dash.... I'd like to connect everything but the electric trolling motor to the main A battery (as long as it can hande it) and only the electric trolling motor to the battery B...this way I'll keep charging battery A while I am using it (with the main motor while going to the spot and later on with the kicker while trolling) and battery B will always be at or near 100% charge as I rarely will use the trolling motor.... Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Over 100 people read the post over the past 24 hrs and I guess none of them was electrician and none of them had a boat with two motors and two batteries? Or all electrical experts must be on vacation C'mon guys I am sure some of you must have exactly the same setup I am talking about on your boats. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

PM sent Doug. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Just spent few hours searching the web trying to find a simple wiring diagram for using two batteries on board and charging both of them from the kicker motor while trolling. I guess battery switch and isolator are needed but exact wiring I've seen has confused me somewhat. Does anyone have a simple diagram I could follow? I have two identical "Die Hard" deep cycle batteries. 1) battery 1 is at the back and is currently wired to be used as starting battery as well as power for all that is on board but the trolling motor. 2) battery 2 is under the left console and only the electric trolling motor is connected to it. (Not sure if the radio/cassette is connected to it too?!?) I'll be installing VHF radio and two electric downriggers....what are my options and to which battery to connect those? What cables will I need? Can the main motor and the kicker motor both charge both batteries? What cost am I looking at in electrical equipment? Thanks. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Hey guys, I haven't got to the point of asking how to wire both batteries to be charged by the kicker motor. This will be in a separate post soon. By the time I am done I hope I don;t end up having more rod holders then rods It is fact though Brian helped drilling the first holes into my old boat and mounting of pair of rod holders on it. But now 3 years later and more expereienced then ever we should do better Brian Sooooooo.....when should I expect you with the Lady? Next weekend? You are not hiding her are you? Spaghetti out of this world and good imported beer are on the menu Wayne could come (of fly in) too ha ha ha...comparing notes helps alot. Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Well that same question was infront of me just a month or two ago...and I've considered it carefully. I almost bought a nice Lowe (welded)....checked few Crestliners and Starcraft's and Alumacrafts, and Smokercraft....and ended up buying Lund (rivited)... My biggest worry was with cracks in the welded hull....not knowing for sure the probabilities of that happening but apparently it does happen and no matter how you welded it after that it'll crack again next to the weld (or so I've been told)...this against the possibility of leaking rivets....I've decided the rivets will be easier fix when/if they leak...and going with Lund I hope I minimized that possibility.... Will know more next year this time after full fishing season on the Great Lakes with regular pounding in the high waves... Cheers, Ice Fisherman

It sure is getting close That's why I am trying to do as much as I can before ...as who knows how much time I'll have after.... And my invitation still stands...infact a friend of mine will be here on Sunday with his soldering-iron on Sunday to help me out soldering the wires...So I'd say.....tomorrow is the day Brian....you and the wife...you know the place...just let me know the time Cheers, Ice Fisherman

Hey Brian, lets be precise here please...it is more like 1 7/8 not 1.5 Now....as you know I have that small, convertable antenna for the regular radio on the gunwell right next to the left windshield. Would that be too close to the proposed location of the VHF antenna on the left gunwell and the VHF radio inside the glove compartment? Also the battery that is under the glove compartment is for the trolling motor and will be rarely used....if connecting the VHF radio to it will I also need to make sure this battery gets charged all the time by the trolling motor so it doesn't go dead on me after 8 hours of fishing on lake O.? Cheers, Ice Fisherman