DanD

Locks are for honest people; if someone wants your stuff they're taking it. A buddy of mine, launched his boat out of Turkey Point marina; busy place, parking lot always filled with trucks & trailers. He gets back in at the end of the day, walks to his truck and his trailers gone. Well most of it anyway; his locked trailer coupler was still on the ball. Most couplers are only bolted on with 2 bolts; with today's cordless tools; an electric impact gun would make short order of unbolting a coupler and attaching a different one. Insurance covered the trailer and the first thing he had done to it was too have the coupler welded to the trailer. Dan.

Yup your best friend on a road trip; even with a lot of the drivers being morons. LOL It's great having all these parts with you, especially wheel bearings; but usually when a wheel bearing fails, while driving and by the time you can feel it enough to pull over; one of the bearing's inner races will likely be welded to the spindle. It's not coming off without torches and grinders; if it hasn't ruined the spindle all together. All I'm saying is; it's not getting fixed on the side of the road. Dan.

Remove the boat's drain plug when on the trailer. On the way home from a trip, we ran into a heavy rain storm; that seemed to follow us for at lease 45 minutes or more. I was pulling my 12 foot tinny with an older 2 wheel drive Dakota and I could feel the truck start working harder and harder to pull this little boat? I thought maybe a wheel bearing was beginning to seize; so I pulled off the highway. Walking back looking down at the wheels; they looked half flat? Looked in the boat and it was almost half full of water. So yea pulling the plug is just as important as putting it in. Dan.

That's a pretty wide brush, you just used to slap all the honest, hard working mechanics and shop owners across the face with. I own and operate a small 5 bay, 3 hoist shop; I have 3 licensed mechanics; myself being one of, Both my Techs have been with me since they were 17 or 18 years old; one is now 45 and the other is 34 years old. So yes when you come for an oil change, you are getting an experienced Tech working on your vehicle. Will we see something that could use attention on a vehicle, possibly; but we do not create an issue; like what you're implying. I have pride in my shop, my Techs; but most of all, all my customer's vehicles that I keep on the road. At times I have had co-op students spend a semester here with us; he is watched like a hawk; when he's allowed to do something on his own. Once they have proved to us they're competent at a certain job, we give him a bit of rope; but he's still on my leash, If we (any employer) don't help the young people interested in a profession; who the hell is. Signed By Ripoff garage owner. Dan.

X2 Dan.

Princess auto would likely have a replacement axle to fit your trailer. If you do not feel comfortable replacing it yourself, most any garage would likely swap it out for you. Most likely cheaper then a specialty trailer shop, trying to straiten it. Plus if straitened and not reinforced some how; it'll likely bend again. Pop can effect, after its bent once it'll bend a second time easier. Dan.

A paragraph from the the paste in my last post. Dan. Should something go wrong, the warranty provider will need to determine the cause of the problem. The Federal Trade Commission says, “The manufacturer or dealer must show that the aftermarket or recycled part caused the need for repairs before denying warranty coverage.” That means if the dealer can prove (the burden is on the dealer) the problem was caused by the wrong viscosity or a poor quality oil filter, your warranty can be denied. Warranty protection would still be in effect for other parts of the cars.

I keep hearing dealership for oil changes, while the vehicle is still under warrantee? Have so many people been told that they'll void their warrantee, if it's not done by a dealership and OEM filters/parts? If so then you have been lied too; anything that is "customer pay" can be done anywhere you want. As long as you have proper documentation that the parts are SAE approved (the part number will tell them that) and the vehicle was serviced at the proper intervals; you've more then safe having the work done elsewhere or by yourself. The manufacturer cannot void the warrantee, if the servicing has been done properly. Dan. Here's a copy & paste after a short google search. Can an aftermarket part void my car warranty? Understanding your service options and warranty protectionsLast updated: June 09, 2014 03:30 PM Car owners seeking to save money on maintenance costs may turn to independent mechanics and aftermarket parts as an alternative to typically pricier dealership service and factory parts. But the rules governing how these money-saving strategies may affect warranties can be confusing. Of course, all new cars come with a limited factory warranty. The specifics vary from company to company, but warranties are governed by law requiring full disclosure to the consumer of coverage and duration. Typically, there is a bumper-to-bumper warranty that provides three years or more of coverage, augmented by a long-duration powertrain warranty and/or corrosion warranty. The purpose of warranties is to ensure consumers that the product performs as promised, with the manufacturer taking responsibility for problems during a predetermined period. Included in the protections for reasonable use in the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is the right for consumers to have the vehicle serviced at a business of their choice and the option to use aftermarket parts, meaning potentially money-saving alternatives to those that came on the car, while retaining the original warranty. The automaker is not allowed to void a warranty just because a nonfactory part is used. Where things can get sticky is when the work or parts are associated with a problem are deemed by a dealership as not performing correctly or are otherwise defective. You have the right to seek alternatives to the dealer for repairs or parts, but remember that good work and good parts are key to a good ownership experience. Should something go wrong, the warranty provider will need to determine the cause of the problem. The Federal Trade Commission says, “The manufacturer or dealer must show that the aftermarket or recycled part caused the need for repairs before denying warranty coverage.” That means if the dealer can prove (the burden is on the dealer) the problem was caused by the wrong viscosity or a poor quality oil filter, your warranty can be denied. Warranty protection would still be in effect for other parts of the cars.

A cabin air filter does help with people that have allergies; it will filter out most of the pollen. Yes 10 or so years ago there were no such a thing as this filter; unless it was a very high end vehicle. What I'm seeing with these filters, is that the AC evaporator external fins are not becoming plugged up with crud; the filter is catching it. So to answer no it's not a money grab; but it's also not necessary to be there. If you wanted too, take it out and throw it away; just don't leave a dirty or plugged up one in there. It'll turn itself into a compost box and stink like somebodies business, once the dead flies and leaves start to rot. Dan.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Trailer-Valet/STC-V211.html

Looks neat for sure; but I think the first thing i'd do with it, is rig a power window motor to it and throw the hand crank away. LOL Dan.

You're 100% right on this one Wayne; the rear wheel speed sensor is the the signal for the speedo; after the signal is sent to the body control module. From there the signal is converted from analog to digital and sent to all of the devices that need to know vehicle road speed. It took a bunch of reading in the service manual and checking wiring diagrams but I do concede. LOL Rick there is a self test that you can try; that will or should prove out the instrument and whether the speedo issue is in the cluster or an input to the cluster. Ignition off, press and hold the trip odometer button. Turn the ignition on but do not start the engine. Release the trip odometer. This will put the cluster into a self test; meaning it will sweep all the gauges, turn on and off different cluster functions. Once done all you need to do is shut the ignition off and that will cancel the self test. What you're going to be watching for is whether the speedo can sweep its full travel; the speedo needle will stop during the sweep at calibrated check points but it should go through the full scale. Dan.

Yup

Wayne I'm pretty sure the speed sensor in the differential is for the ABS; the vehicle speed sensor is on the rear of the transmission or the rear of the transfer case if it's a 4X4 Dan.

To many variables to give you any real direction; would need a proper scan tool connected to read sensor live data and that's just to begin diagnosing this issue. That being said does the transmission (assuming its an automatic) still shift normally when the speedo is inop? If not it could and I mean could be the vehicle speed sensor on the trans/transfer case? As for the ABS, yea it's likely one of wheel speed sensors; but which one? Again a scan tool would be needed to monitor each wheel watching if one of the sensors are dropping out? Now don't go out and buy one of those cheap code readers; thinking it's a scan tool. A code reader is just that it only reads emission related codes. Most cannot read ABS, body computer or anything other then powertrain "P" codes. Places like crappy tire sell them in the hope you'll plug it in, see a code for whatever and then run in and buy the sensor that the code is related too. Sorry for your luck, you bought it, you plugged it in; its now yours forever; no return on electronic parts once plugged in. Dan.

I've bought and sold lots of things on/from Kijiji; things I want cheap because I'm going to re-purpose them. A 16 foot extension ladder for example, now are a pair of skies for my snowmobile trailer/fish hut. The frame from a 20X10 portable garage is going to be the wall studs and roof joists. Spent 50 bucks for both. Just picked up a wall safe for 200 bucks; took it to my locksmith to have it serviced before installing it in my mother in-laws basement wall; John (locksmith) offered me $800. for it. Out of all my dealings I've only had one person stiff me with a no show; but they wanted to do a trade for something I wasn't sure I wanted or had a use for? Dan.

Ask Away. Dan.

My Dad always told me that I'll learn more by listening (reading here) then talking out of turn; that's why my post count after all these years is still below a 1000. I only post when I can add something to a thread or try and help someone. Other then that; my story telling skills are not all that good. I'm kind of like Joe Friday (Jack Webb) from the 60's Dragnet show; "just the fact ma'am just the facts" LOL Dan.

Yea I know what you mean. LOL You should see my electronics work bench; scan tool, oscilloscope, multi meters, amp clamps and a HAMMER! To tell you the truth there is a prescribed test that all manufacturers use; it's call the tap test. You connect up the oscilloscope to lets say a mass air flow sensor, start the engine and then hit the sensor. If you see a glitch in the sign-wave replace the sensor. Dan.

Are you sure that it's not you that's setting this code P0118? If you unplug this sensor with the engine running for any longer then 20 seconds, this code will set. The PCM will go into a form of limp in mode and command the fans on. The PCM also defaults to 80C which in turn drops the temp gauge in the dash to just off the cold mark. When you say that you can sense the engine is getting hot; what does the temp gauge say? Don't bother with the relays, you say the fans come on when you unplug the sensor; so we know they're OK, along with the wiring to the fans and the fan motors themselves. I would like to know what the voltages are on the signal return wire, at the temp sensor connector. Ignition off disconnect the temp sensor; turn the key on engine off (KOEO) measure the voltage at the signal wire (yellow wire) it should be around 5.2 volts. Making sure that the ground lead of the multi-meter is connected to a known good ground. If the voltage on the yellow wire is way above the 5.2v start looking for a short to power. If voltage is way below 5.2v start looking for a short to ground or an open in the circuit. Open meaning a broken or corroded yellow wire; somewhere between the sensor and the PCM. There's more tests we can do but let me know these results before going any further. Depending on what you tell me, we may need to stat back probing the PCM and disconnecting the PCM to continue the test. One last thing make sure that the engine is actually getting warm/hot. Let it sit & idle, it can take up to 20 minutes before a fan request can happen. If the engine does actually starts to overheat; you know what to do; UNPLUG THE COOLANT SENSOR LOL or have a hose ready and soak the rad down, until the engine cools. Driving down the road there's air flow through the rad; so even on a hot day while driving the fans will rarely come on. Not unless there's a mechanical issue causing the engine to become hot. Dan.

What does the temp gauge read on the dash? If the gauge is functioning that tells us the the PCM (computer) is receiving and properly interpreting the coolant sensor's signal. Both the IPC (Instrument panel) and the PCM use the same sensor signal (kind of). The PCM will not turn the engine cooling fans on until engine temperature reaches approx 98C (210F) and then it'll only turn on the one fan. At approx 105C (210F) then both fans are commanded on by the PCM. If the truck has a functioning AC system; the one fan would be commanded on as soon as the AC pressures reach a certain pressure. Without a proper scan tool, there's no other way to force/fool the PCM to turn the fans on. Has the truck actually overheated? Get your hands on one of those infrared thermometers and test the actual temperature of the engine. Princess Auto sells them for about $25.00. Take temp readings at the upper and lower hose to engine connection housings. You may have a thermostat that's stuck open and the engine has not reached the cut point for the PCM to command the fans on? If the engine is actually getting hot enough for a fan request; you should be able to hear one, two or all three relays click on. If so then it will be time to see if one or both fans are getting power. Use a test light connected across the two terminals of the disconnected cooling fans (both) connectors; one at a time. The engine will need to stay running; the PCM will shut fans off when engine is turned off. If the test light lights; then you likey have burnt out or seized fan motors. Again if the test light lights, plug the fans back in electrically and then lightly hit the fan motors with a small hammer (Don't beat the crap out of them) Sometimes the motor"s brushed will get stuck and not make the internal connection to the armature; this light tapping may jar them loose and get the motors turnning again? I know more questions then answers and now that I've likely confused you completely; try and answer the ones you can. Dan.

You could also start from seed if you wanted; you can get it super cheap on Ebay. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Spicy-Acres-500-Del-Gold-Delgold-Organic-Heirloom-NON-GMO-Tobacco-Seeds-Cigar/111766416848?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620091118%26meid%3D3d18c572284f4b35acb6e428ec360be2%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D151813186166 Put together a make shift greenhouse and you could likely google the growing process of how to get the plants started. They are a very fragile plant and the slightest ground frost or insect infestation will kill them easily. Dan.

It's more then legal to grow tobacco for personal use; but there is a weight limit of 200lbs (I think it's 200) of cured leaf tobacco in your possession at any one time. I grew up on a tobacco farm and yes there are licenses and quota that a farmer is required too have, to grow it commercially. So next year, head down South here to the Simcoe, Delhi area and buy a few hundred plates from a farmer; while the greenhouses still have the plants in. Mid April to early June would be about the right time to get mature seedlings ready for the field/garden. When My dad was still growing; we'd always had people coming too us wanting to buy seedlings. They'd plant them in their gardens and flower beds. Believe it or not they're a very nice looking plant; when you;re not looking at them in a 50/100 acre field; with thousands of them a foot and a half apart from each other. I'm also talking tobacco tobacco, not wacky. LOL Dan.

I you have access under your deck; soak a few rags with household ammonia (you can buy it at the grocery store, in the liquid cleaning section); throw the rags under the deck, in as many different places you can reach. If you can't get under there, pour it through the deck boards; it'll soak in the ground and not last as long, so you may need to reapply a few times. Trapping and relocating them is the best; but legally you cannot relocate them any further then 1 Klm from where they were trapped. Not unless you have a trapping license and then you can euthanize(sp?) them, if relocation is not feasible. I understand the law as to why only a Klm; but in the city what are you too do? Drive a Klm through the subdivision, stop, knock on the closest house door and say sorry this is as far as I'm allow to go and dump the skunk on their front yard? LOL Dan.