Lower Unit oil is milky gray...

[boatman]

I'd run it a couple times before I committed to changing the lower unit seals. The source of water was probably because you didn't have a washer on the drain screw. You might still have a bad seal or two, but I'd test it first. Also, you should run the motor on a boat. You want the gearcase to heat up. It might not fail in the barrel, when it will on the lake.

 

You don't need to fog the engine or anything. That is for storage. Just run it for the season. Also, it couldn't hurt to change the impeller since you don't know the service history of this motor. Nothing wrong with old motors. I don't have a motor newer than 1988 and I have lots of them.

[ilario]

Well, I ran it in the bucket for a good 25 minutes or more after I put on new washers... mostly neutral but I kicked it into gear (F and R) a couple of times.. couldn't do much more than that because the bucket wasn't big ennough.

 

Afterward, i drained the gear oil again. Hard to say for sure, but it did seem a little opaque...just a touch off and not as clear as when I poured it in. However, this could be b/c of the crap that was alreay in the gear case. I also think that I'm being a bit paranoid at this point!

 

I hope that I won't harm it by running it in the lake for a a trip or two then checking it to see if there really is water coming in.

 

BTW, how much does an impellar cost? I am already over budget...but if I have to... can it be readily installed or do I have to dish out more $$ for a mechanic?

 

thanks!!

Edited May 28, 2007 by Poachers Paradise

[boatman]

I don't know about Honda parts, but OMC and Mercury impellers for an engine that size are $20+. If you have a manual it should be an easy replacement. The oil could be alittle opaque because of air bubbles. Check the oil after each outing for a while. I bet it'll be fine.

[fishboy]

You said the engine oil was quite dirty and that it being a small motor there's no filter. That being the case, you might want to consider changing the engine oil part-way through your first season to have a look. Hopefully it's much cleaner and it won't even cost you $10. Taking care of the oil is the simplest way to a long, happy life with any motor.

[Fisherman]

. The engine oil on the 4 strokes is poured in from the dipstick and there;s the one drain screw... it came out really quick, which surprised me.

thanks!

The engine oil fill does not go through the dipstick hole, there's a fill cap there about the same size as used on lawnmowers. I replaced the impeller on a 7.5, not hard to do, it's the same as a 10HP, undo the bolts underneath the cavitation plate, pull the cotter pin out of the linkage for the shifter at the motor end, takes a bit of looking to find it. You should be able to pull the whole lower unit down. If I remember, there's 2 bolts that hold the impeller cover on. Cost was about $17.

[ilario]

The engine oil fill does not go through the dipstick hole, there's a fill cap there about the same size as used on lawnmowers. I replaced the impeller on a 7.5, not hard to do, it's the same as a 10HP, undo the bolts underneath the cavitation plate, pull the cotter pin out of the linkage for the shifter at the motor end, takes a bit of looking to find it. You should be able to pull the whole lower unit down. If I remember, there's 2 bolts that hold the impeller cover on. Cost was about $17.

 

 

thanks...i will look into impeller... as for the oil port, I think we're talking about the same thing! I called it the diupstick because it doubles as both...the cap is yellow and the same size as what you described...a lawnmower!

 

 

thanks...hopefully, I won;t need to replace the impeller... just changing the oil and plugs was a huge leap forward for this mechanical idiot!!! but i'm feeling a lot more comfortable now in terms of working on the engine...should save me some $$$$ in the future...

 

thank you to all memebers!