Brute 756 12/24v switch MG wiring - Help

[baironhorse]

Seems like I am asking the same ole questions....when I think I have all the answers I run into more material and get confused...QUestion is: from reading below I want to run a 24v system only...DO I still have to wire the 12v line evernthough I have no desire of using this feature....I know these 12/14v selector switch systems are different from a stright forward 24v wired series (atleast from what I read)....I just hate the fact of running a third wire in my boat ( and getting a second breaker) and would like to avoid all this and utilize my wiring I have...ANy thoughts or am I $.O.L?

 

""What the wiring looks like depends on what functionality you want. If you want the option of using either 12V OR 24V operation, then the schematic shown above will not work -- its a 24V only setup. Since you have a 12/24V selector switch on the trolling motor, you can use this schematic and eliminate one of the ground wires, and you can also eliminate the switch panel. The motor also has a speed control on the foot pedal so you can eliminate the speed control box on the boat. With this system however, you will need to charge each battery individually (at the battery) or install a dual bank on-board charger.

 

The reason two sets of wires (one pair from each battery) were routed to the panel was for 12/24 switching and to enable charging both batteries with a single 12V charger through the receptacle. All that switching with more modern motors is not necessary."""

 

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=187256&page=1

[baironhorse]

any one?

 

Seems like I am asking the same ole questions....when I think I have all the answers I run into more material and get confused...QUestion is: from reading below I want to run a 24v system only...DO I still have to wire the 12v line evernthough I have no desire of using this feature....I know these 12/14v selector switch systems are different from a stright forward 24v wired series (atleast from what I read)....I just hate the fact of running a third wire in my boat ( and getting a second breaker) and would like to avoid all this and utilize my wiring I have...ANy thoughts or am I $.O.L?

 

""What the wiring looks like depends on what functionality you want. If you want the option of using either 12V OR 24V operation, then the schematic shown above will not work -- its a 24V only setup. Since you have a 12/24V selector switch on the trolling motor, you can use this schematic and eliminate one of the ground wires, and you can also eliminate the switch panel. The motor also has a speed control on the foot pedal so you can eliminate the speed control box on the boat. With this system however, you will need to charge each battery individually (at the battery) or install a dual bank on-board charger.

 

The reason two sets of wires (one pair from each battery) were routed to the panel was for 12/24 switching and to enable charging both batteries with a single 12V charger through the receptacle. All that switching with more modern motors is not necessary."""

 

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=187256&page=1

[Billy Bob]

NO....just go with the 24 volt wiring diagram.

 

And get yourself at least a 2 bank on-board charger for each of those batteries...if you also want to charge the starting motor battery (recommended) get a 3 bank charger.

 

Bob

Edited June 19, 2011 by Billy Bob

[Terry]

what he said

[baironhorse]

So you suggest I stay with this wiring diagram? See link from previous post:

http://www.ofncommunity.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54162

 

NO....just go with the 24 volt wiring diagram.

 

And get yourself at least a 2 bank on-board charger for each of those batteries...if you also want to charge the starting motor battery (recommended) get a 3 bank charger.

 

Bob