my tinner leak repair

[skinny]

as some have read my new to me tinner leaked

after filling it up in the front with water I found it to be the keel rib it appeared the sealer that was used had gone hard and was allowing it to leak

after asking here surfing the net and e-mailing shops I decided to go at it myself .

the one place i talked to JandJ almost instantly said it's and old Springbok (think that is spelled right) and I remember once seeing a faint name under the paint on it

so here is what I did sorry no pictures of the process

 

1. flipped boat over and with course wire wheel removed and buffed the seams that were leaking

2.once all cleaned and buffed I wiped it all down and dried the area with Lacquer thinners

3 went to Nappa bought a tube of windshield urethane sealer (this is the the stuff hold windshields in cars now) I think I can get a pic of the tube

3a. put down a tape line so i would have nice smooth edge when done

4. applied a bead to the seam of boat

5. smoothed out the bead while pushing into seam

then let it dry (about 2 hr ) then got out the tremclad black and painted over the center rib

6. I then put the boat back in the truck with nose way high so I could get under and in the front of the boat there is a seam with about a 3/8 gap and that was where the water would enter so i polished up that area a bit and pumped urethane into it to create a plug like item

 

job was all done by 5pm and at 7 pm i drove over to the ponds to test her out

no leaks now i can start to have some fun with this thing

Edited September 1, 2009 by skinny

[johnnyb]

WOOT!!! Very nice...hoepfully the leak won't come back...but if it does, sounds like you've got the repair job down pat.

[NAW]

I never would have thought of using automotive window sealer.

 

I've got some slow leaks in my tinner. I always just use JB weld.

[PMack]

Right on glad it worked out for ya. That stuff is cheap and affective.

[skinny]

the cauking tube full was under $13.00

now the other thing I would like to do is figure out a way to move it over the rocks at the launch area

I lauch from out of my truck so the bottom gets draged a fair bit over rocks and now that i have some paint on the bottom of the boat I can see what area is getting the most damage might have to rig up a dolly or something that I can roll the front into the water then take the wheels off once in water

[PMack]

You can always do the old school plastic pipes underneath and roll it down and keep takin them out and puttin em at the back. Not the most advanced fancy way of doin it but works ahaha...

[Billy Bob]

The repair will now last as long as the material stay pliable.

 

And why is this thread stretch out so much ? ? ?

[rtrudeau]

Good job on the repair, hope it hold and flexes for you. If the caulking is flexible when dry it should. One thing I would do once or twice a year is spray my tinner seam with the flexible roof repair stuff you buy in a spray can at any hardware store. It is cheap and seeps into the cracks before it dries. Has worked fairly well but it does need to be applied if you,ve rubbed over the rocks. As for moving my tinner, I used to put a handcart/dolly that has the air tires on it, down on the ground, put my boat on it so the stern was on the plate of the dolly and strap it with 2 ratchet straps. Then I would pull it around by just grabbing the bow. Worked pretty well. Ry

[Jonny]

The repair will now last as long as the material stay pliable.

 

JB Weld is great stuff but it dries rock hard. If there's any flex in a seam,

automotive windshield adhesive seems like a better idea

 

And why is this thread stretch out so much ? ? ?

 

I thought it was only me seeing that. Very strange.