SlowPoke Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Ouch....called today and it's about $90 for the aluminum to build my frame! 16ft of angle and 12ft of tube. 1/8'' Does that sound right? It's only $20 to build a wood frame maybe I'll put up with the extra weight. Yep, that's about right. My 1/4" 2x2 angle was $80+ each for 20ft lengths, flat bar was $60 ea. You don't even want to know what I paid for the 3/16" sheets. And I got a deal compared to what MS was asking! When I decide to sell my boat, somebody is gonna get a heckuva deal! LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) Oh, one other thing. If you decide on a wood frame, soak everything well with green wood preserver (used to be called "Cuprinol"). Cdn Tire has it in 1 liter and 3 liter bottles. My dad built a wood-frame boat a long time ago and as it got older he used to soak the under-floor with that stuff. He used to liberally re-apply it every spring. It was very good for keeping rot at bay. I would also consider pressure-treated wood if you can get it in the dimensions you need (and soak the cut ends with Cuprinol). Edited August 24, 2009 by Jocko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Yep, that's about right. My 1/4" 2x2 angle was $80+ each for 20ft lengths, flat bar was $60 ea. You don't even want to know what I paid for the 3/16" sheets. And I got a deal compared to what MS was asking! When I decide to sell my boat, somebody is gonna get a heckuva deal! LOL! Darn...I think I might go to Copps at lunch and just buy some wood. I'll design the frame so it's lighter and brace it where its needed. I'm better off buying a new prop that'll offset the marginal weight difference that'll be worth more than the extra coin in aluminum to me and whomever buys it next. Thanks so much for the tips guys, I learned a bunch here and if i get a newer deep-V and need to start fresh I'll go the aluminum route next time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowPoke Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 The stuff I mean is the 'large crack and gap" foam you can buy at Can. Tire or building supply stores, sometimes for as little as $5 a can. Keep in mind, this foam will not meet coast guard standards for floatation and should not be used to replace existing floatation foam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Keep in mind, this foam will not meet coast guard standards for floatation and should not be used to replace existing floatation foam. Ah, good to know. Still, if the flotation is built in under the bow cap, gunnels and seats (and not under the floor) it would be useable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 I was able to drop some weight by picking up some 2x3's and some 2x2's for my frame at least going down from 2x4's and 2x3's before. Should be sturdy with 5/8'' ontop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockeyplayerz_14 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 My freiend did it and he made a really nice one with a stencel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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