Raf

bass, especially smallies are a very aggressive and territorial fish. moreso than a pike. i'm not sure where your concern is? are the pike eating all your bass? answer is no.

Says right on the TSB: revised N23 recall procedure.. for vehicles that lose the abililty to shift into 4LO/N after the original N23 recall was performed.. references the software version that the N23 recall puts on the FDCM... yadda yadda yadda.. if that's not an admission of the original recall messing things up, I don't know what is. Chrysler handled this whole thing very poorly IMO as it took over a year for any kind of official fix. I think they were hoping that most people wouldn't notice and the ones that do would be such a minority... afterall, how many people actually use 4LO/N on their transfer case in a Grand Cherokee. I know it's a Jeep but it's not exactly a Wrangler. A large percentage of these vehicles were purchased to be mall crawlers.

Bill it's the recall that BREAKS 4LO. There's a revised software update/procedure that is supposed to address it what the recall originally broke.

No, they shouldn't and didn't charge me. The service guy had an ounce of common sense said there's no way he can charge me for a fix to a recall -- they will be billing chrysler for it. I'm sure there's dealers that would try -- I'd escalate to chrysler if they do.

get it reflashed,,mine is still working since the 7/29 updated software/procedure

that's our spaniel in one of his favourite spots. turned two in september. he and our 2 year old son are best buds (usually), loves the water -- cant keep him dry at the lake.

that works too. little cleaner and less waste with the pump and the fitting but i did my lower unit just like you describe for a couple of seasons.

princess auto, canadian tire have them as will a honda dealer, just make sure the adapter that comes with it will fit the threading on your lower unit. i had to go to a yamaha dealer to get an adaptor for the adaptor.

LOL it's addictive ain't it? then come bigger turbos, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pumps. bigger intercoolers, air/fuel controllers, race gas, it doesn't end.

running regular is not bad for the turbo itself, it can be bad for the engine of a turbo-equipped car due to knock (or detonation). modern day turbo cars have safety measures in place to prevent this in the form of knock sensors in case you get a batch of bad fuel. if a knock sensor detects knock, it will idiot the timing of the engine to prevent damage -- when this happens, the car will feel like a dog (slow). the reason you need higher octane fuel is because it is more resistant to knock. you can skip the rest if there's no interest a not-turbo car's compression ratio is static. cars with forced induction (turbo/supercharger) have dynamic compression ratios. all a turbo does is raise the compression ratio by cramming a lot more air into the combustion chamber while your foot is in it -- higher compression ratio=more power. if you keep your foot out of it, and don't 'use' the turbo, the engine stays at it's (lower) compression. the higher the compression ratio, the higher the chance for knock, the higher the need for high octane fuel (which is more resistant to knock). so, if you were in a bind and had to use regular for whatever reason, you will be just fine if you keep your foot out of it.

i don't see how that's a problem? people who are after thc will ingest it one way or another, law be damned. you cannot go into a store or online and buy e-liquid with thc.

Congrats Brian. I am in month 4 of my cigarette free journey using the same tool (e-smokes). It worked for me since the first puff and I just knew it would -- havent touched a smoke since. Was a 20+ year smoker before that. I'm not sure I am ready to give up the vape yet though. I would encourage others who are trying to quit and have tried other methods (I wanted to eat the patch) to give this a shot.

i don;t think you can get the hemi in a bare bones version like the v6, maybe not even in 2wd. so i'd imagine after adding all the options, the price is much different.

hopefully it involves a vehicle with the quadra drive II system. it's a very slick/impressive 4wd system with electronically locking front and rear diffs, though even with the quadra trac ii (non-locking), it's a jeep and will take you places most other vehicles won't. good luck in your search.

No it was model wide for all 05-10s. Anyone who went into chrysler either to voluntarily get the recall done or any other service done and the VIN of the vehicle popped up as not having it done had it performed. Plus I think they all have remote start. If you are worried about the vehicle rolling away, it won't happen. If you are still worried, use the parking brake pr don't use the remote start. If you are worried about losing 4LO, like I said, I had the updated software done July 29th and it's been fine so far.. time will tell but I think the issue is resolved, at the very least, by issuing a 'fix for the fix', Chrysler sees they messed things up with the original recall. If it fails, I know I can still get it back with either the fuse pull trick or a junkyard FDCM. In my mind, it's really a non-issue just something to be aware of.

it sits 2 weeks max before being replaced by fresh fuel

for the people looking at the GC of these model years -- be aware of the below issue, it affects all Grand Cherokees and Jeep Commanders from 05 to 10 regardless of engine and if you are ok with it, use it to your advantage when haggling: there was a recall put out for all these model year GCs (and Jeep Commanders) in 2013 named the N23 recall. The recall was to address the issue of the transfer case possbily popping into Neutral when using teh remote starter and the vehicle rolling away. The actual issue is that a circuit board in the final drive control module (FDCM for short) - which is the 'brain' behind the transfer case - may crack. Chrysler addressed this issue not by replacing the boards, but by issuing a software fix that tightens the tolerances of the brain as to when it will allow switching from AWD to N or to 4LO. It may take weeks, it may take months -- eventually, any vehicle that has had this recall performed will illuminate the service-4wd message when attempting to put the transfer case in N or LO and not allow you to switch into N or 4LO. July 29th of this year, chrysler put out a tech bulletin with a revised software update as well as revised procedure for installing this update. It may or may not fix this issue (I've had the update done and so far so good). Other than the updated procedure from Chrysler, there are two known fixes for this, one is temporary, one is permament. The temp fix is to pull the FDCM fuse with vehicle running, shut it off, and replace the fuse. Upon restarting, you will be able to engage N and 4LO for who knows how long (last time I did this I had 4LO for 2 months). The permament fix is to buy a junkyard FDCM from a donor vehicle that has not had the recall performed (and use your parking brake in case you are worried the vehicle will roll away using the remote start). Most people who have had this recall performed have no clue that it has disabled their 4LO as they never use it or never flat tow behind a motor home in N. If you are one of these people, this is propably a non-issue since the vehicles will switch to AWD or even true 4WD if you have the quadra drive ii tcase when the rears slip anyway -- this functionality is unaffected. If you do use 4LO/N, know that you can fix it one way or another. Yes I still recommend this vehicle. Especially in a diesel if you tow or drive a lot of miles.

or you have a portable tank and dump any unused fuel from the boat in the car i only use stabil to winterize, don't see the point of using it during the summer and havent thought of a reason to use seafoam in my 40 4-stroke. my motor gets fresh fuel every time out.

I have one ('08 GC Diesel) and I like it... lots. Towing is rated at 7200lbs. It tows my 1000lb rig like it's not there. If you look at the jeep forums people use these to haul quite the loads. I can get just north of 9L/100km if I keep it at or below 110 (unloaded) -- the sweet spot for fuel efficiency is somewhere around 85-95 km/hr from what I can tell where it dips into the 8s/100 -- this is with more aggressive AT tires. If your 'hwy' driving consists of mostly 80km/hr roads, you're laughing. The size of the vehicle along with the gearing (really could use a 6th gear or a lower final drive -- this is about my only gripe) make fuel efficiency suffer above 110.. it is still much more efficient than the v8 GC I owned before that -- regardless of speed. No issues with power.. it's not 'instant-on' power like a v8, it is a turbo diesel that needs to spool the turbo but, it is there. It actually has more torque, at a lower RPM & wider RPM range than the 5.7 Hemi which makes it an ideal tow vehicle. It does this while burning a lot less fuel. If you're not setting your cruise at 130, I would recommend it over the V8.

Wayne, I suspect you're the last person on this site who would require any help on this one. If anything, you'll end up with an over-engineered, super light bunk that will outlast the frame of the trailer. LOL

I dislike apple products on so many levels -- from having the audacity to fill up users devices with U2 spam to their apple only proprietary crap to their outrageous pricing to issues like this.. pure junk! I can't believe people line up for hours to spend hundreds when a device is released. Go android/samsung. that's just my nickel.

water levels come and go the old adage 'if you don't know, go slow' doesn't. it's worked for me thus far (knocking on wood), even on the minefields of west bay and georgian bay.

the lindy glove won't help with hook through the finger. make sure you have hook cutters capable of cutting muskie hooks out.

dont buy rapala rods or reels.

longer rod, easier to cast further and easier on the back to perform figure 8s - ie. less fatigue on the angler. the disadvantage is working jerkbaits and walk the dog style top water baits can be tougher especially if you're not fishing from a casting deck (ie. the back of the boat) when it comes to reels, size of the lure is less important than the amount of water it displaces (how hard it pulls). a 10" suick is very easy to retrieve, a double 10 bucktail is hard and will destroy that little abu (and angler in the process). 80 lb minimum. a 7'6 rod is a good starting rod and a good all-rounder. it will become a good jerkbait rod should you add to your arsenal later with a longer 8'+ rod. use your thumb to stop the cast before engaging like the guys said, it'll become automatic after a while reel is engaged when trolling, set your drag so that it the reel release line with a little pressure. i do at least an l-turn on every cast, should figure 8 more. i've caught several fish on a f8 that i didn't even see following.