Jonny

Very nice mount, and very meaningful.

No problem, Bernie. If you had been interested I would have at least asked my brother, though I think he would probably want to hang on to it. My father used to rent boats like this when I was a kid (before he built his own - not a cedar strip) and my grandfather had one for quite a few years, but I can't remember all that much about them, so this question might be dumb --- is the Giesler boat basically similar to a Peterborough boat? I spent most of my life up around Timmins and the aluminum boat is king up there. I don't think I ever saw a cedar strip even once in all my years of fishing around Timmins. I remember the solidity and good handling of these cedar strips, though. I've often had it in the back of my mind to want one.

Great looking boat for its age. They need a lot of TLC but there's nothing quite like 'em. I'd like to see how it looks when you get through restoring it. My brother has a 1956 Evinrude Fast-twin (15 HP) that my Dad bought new in '56 and is still running and looks good. I don't know if he'd part with it though.

OK, makes sense, but do you need a whistle and a horn? For a whistle, it would seem to make sense to have one attached to every lifejacket in the boat, but I've never heard of that being a requirement. In order to avoid getting caught out and paying a fine, it seems to me that I'll try to set myself up like this: a lifejacket, with whistle attached, for every person in the boat a bailing bucket a pair of oars (for oarlocks), or paddles an air horn 50 feet of floating throwing line a flashlight with working batteries and spares a clamp-on battery-powered red/green navigation light Am I missing anything?

I've spent a while looking for an official gov't document that lays out the legal requirements for boating safety equipment, without success. Anybody got a link they use?

That link says you have to have a horn, not a whistle. So what's with the whistle? I thought that was all that was needed for a signalling device.

The Boating License link posted by Splashhopper in another thread might make a good FAQ topic as well... http://www.powerboatexam.com/ http://www.boatsmartexam.com/?CFID=4004424...b4b7d2c63e3a5c4

In the FAQ's section of this site there are a few good tips. Since it seems to come up often from first-time or prospective owners, how about a "topic" for what you need in a boat to be legal - PFD's, paddles, bailing bucket, etc. Also the fishing regs link is out of date. The current one is... http://www.mnr.gov.on.ca/en/Business/LetsF...L02_163615.html There are probably other things that could be added?

Reminds me of a few of the trips I used to take before we moved to the lake. That one pic showing water on the road and the lengthwise logs looks like a real killer! And scratches on that nice truck! Hopefully you can buff most of them out. What we won't do to get a good camping spot and some good fishing!

Not taken as a "moan" by anyone, I'm sure. I wish you hadn't mentioned day tickets. Some government type will pick up on this and think it's a great idea to regulate fishing (a.k.a. grabbing more money out of our pockets).

Unfortunately the best way to solve your problem involves money... you need to (if possible) buy yourself a canoe or a kayak (and of course have the means to store and transport it). Shore fishing in populated areas always means "competition" with other people, especially in popular areas at peak times, and really goes against the grain of what fishing is all about - a relaxing time involving you, the water and the fish.

Could be good for pulling those big bass out of the slop... http://www.wired.com/science/planetearth/m...e/17-09/st_tool

Thanks, Solo.

I don't know what you are referring to. See post #40 for what I try to do when posting material. You might note that not only did I give credit to where I got it, but I also included the link to the original piece for anyone who would be interested in seeing it there, and perhaps browsing some other articles on the site. As was said, I know it might draw additional traffic to the site. I try to do both things, or at least one of them. I have no interest in making the work and opinions of others appear as my own. I can't find the post in question but it would be highly unlikely that I didn't do at least one of them. My apologies if I overlooked it.

I was wondering how you'd make out with your "home-made". After all that effort in trying to find stuff, and jury-rigging, you got yourself an entry. Good show!

I think he's looking over his shoulder, hoping no one is watching.

Way to go, Mike! It sure is a novel experience, isn't it? Kind of like living a cartoon. Who would have thought that weeks into the derby some small bass would hold the top three places?

Got my antlerless tag today. WMU 37.

An "inquiry specialist" from environment Canada responded to my emails. Here are the links he gave me: http://www.pnr-rpn.ec.gc.ca/air/summersevere/index.en.html http://www.atl.ec.gc.ca/weather/severe/summer_e.html I wrote back and suggested that these links be posted directly with tornado watches and warnings, rather than be so obscure. Note that one of them is an Atlantic Canada link.

I guess that depends if the carb was removed, disassembled and a new carb kit put in. Was that the case? If you left the motor at the service shop and they simply told you it was cleaned, they might have run Seafoam through it for you and little else? If a new carb kit was installed, the cost might be reasonable. The lower unit oil you could have replaced yourself very simply and in about 15 minutes (and had nothing to do with the motor problem, as I'm sure you're aware).

Ah, good to know. Still, if the flotation is built in under the bow cap, gunnels and seats (and not under the floor) it would be useable.

Oh, one other thing. If you decide on a wood frame, soak everything well with green wood preserver (used to be called "Cuprinol"). Cdn Tire has it in 1 liter and 3 liter bottles. My dad built a wood-frame boat a long time ago and as it got older he used to soak the under-floor with that stuff. He used to liberally re-apply it every spring. It was very good for keeping rot at bay. I would also consider pressure-treated wood if you can get it in the dimensions you need (and soak the cut ends with Cuprinol).

Now that's something I'd pay to see done with a 30 or 40 pounder!

The reason I mentioned the rigid expanding foam is because it's slightly flexible and will not soak up water - it's weatherproof. The stuff I mean is the 'large crack and gap" foam you can buy at Can. Tire or building supply stores, sometimes for as little as $5 a can. The stuff expands like crazy and bonds itself to surfaces, though it's "cuttable" with a razor knife, sandable and paintable. It might be something to consider even if only for tight spots, like the bow, where building under-floor support might be difficult. I say slightly flexible, but it's not flexible enough to give if covered with plywood to walk on. Anyway, good luck with the project, no matter how you do it.

Thanks Mike, that's certainly possibility in that kind of set-up. It's been years since the boat has been on the trailer (it's now pulled up on a ramp at the water all year) so the "good 8 inches" was a guess. I did get a flat without the motor touching the ground once or twice. I even broke a spring once without consequences to the motor. I used to do so much trailering that I always kept a spare tire and rim, spare bearings, grease and removal tools in the truck, and even a spare hub, just in case. No spare spring though! That sounds plausible. But my motor will not lock down when in gear (only when in neutral) so it was in neutral all the time when trailering. We used to go on highway trips of up to about four hours (Timmins to Wawa or Timmins to Nipissing) and didn't encounter such a problem.