DRIFTER_016

I'm actually doing the opposite.

 

My 24v batteries are at the bow of the boat, but I have two trolling motors wired to them (bow and stern mount).

 

We ran conduit from the front to the back, under the floor boards....

 

i'd be surprised, with the way a alaskan is weighted, that they would want the 24v battery system in the back.

 

Your cranking battery is already in the back, with the main outboard, and yourself (as I recall, your boat is a tiller?)

 

You may find your boat will porpoise (sp). Mine does. (edit: IF I keep my 24v batteries in the stern)

 

However, my boat was designed with the battery compartment up in the front, not the back.

My boat has all 3 batteries in the rear of the boat. Putting the batteries up front will subject them to much more vibration and pounding which will shorten the life of the batteries.

If you have porpoising issues install a set of Smart Tabs they will get rid of the issue as well as make the boat handle better in the rough stuff and even give you better mileage.

As Solopaddler as he put a set on his boat and he is pretty happy with the performance gains.

I fish shield lakes exclusively and only run aluminum props.

Way too many unknown shoals popping up out of 200 FOW to risk stainless here.

I also keep a spare prop in the back of the boat as well as the tools to replace it.

If you run a lot of rocky water I would go aluminum again and have Citywide Welding in Mississauga repair your old one for use as a spare.

Why would you need to run conduit? Won't your batteries be at the stem?

If there is no conduit from front to back and you just leave the wires loose under the boats floor it is much more likely that they will eventually wear and short out against the hull of the boat. The conduit protects the wiring from chafing and damage.

If there is no conduit from front to back I would be lifting the floor and installing some. But that's just me.

I wouldn't want my conduit above the floor for estetic reasons.

No, you can use 2 wraps of electrical tape to keep the braid from spinning on the spool.

Here's a great Video on braid setup. This is for a spinning reel but it is no different for a bait caster.

It'll be fine.

You bet!!!

Been running one on my boat for the last 21 years!~!~!

Do those 'arms' reach the 'A' section of the trailer? How do they transfer weight to the front driving wheels? Curious, as I pull a 3350 lb package (not with a Caravan).

Thx,

Simon

Yes they reach the A section of the trailer on campers but you need a pole tongue adapter for boat trailers.

Pole Tongue Adapter

Here's a good article on how weight distribution hitches work.

There are also smaller weight distribution hitches for trailers 3500#'s or under (I really should have linked to that one for the OP but couldn't find it at the time)

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP66024.html

If you're going to tow close to the limit like that do yourself a big favour and get a weight distribution hitch. It will make a huge difference in the way the van handles as well as effectively taking 1/2 the tongue weight off the rear wheels and putting it on the front driving wheels. This will get rid of the rear sag and give you better traction on the front driving/steering wheels. Your van will corner better when hauling the boat and get better traction when pulling the boat out of the lake.

One similar to This should do the trick.

I bought one of the cheap Asian built 1000/1300 watt ones from Canadian tire 2 years ago to power my camper while in Alaska. It has been used quite a bit over the last couple of years as I go there for 6 weeks each fall. It is noisy but it has worked well for the job I need it for.

CT currently has their Mastercraft branded 1000/1300 watt model on sale at 30% off.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/ShopEquipment/Generators/PRD~0550343P/Mastercraft+1300%2B1000W+4-stroke+Gas+Generator.jsp?locale=en

LOL!!! Nothing white about that lie!

Nope, that one can be catagorized as a Bold Faced lie!!! :rofl2:

I have a Renzetti Traveller and it is a very good vise. IMHO

Tell him he can meet you there.

Exactly!!!!

He's a big boy and if he can't stand up for himself he sure as heck can drive his own car, unless his wife says he can't of course!!!!

It's that time of year again here in the North country, the time when winter finally releases her grip on our local lakes and rivers. :thumbsup_anim:

Got the boat out and had a little fun trolling for pike and lakers today with a decent number brought to hand but no giants.

Here's a couple of shots from the day.

Old man winter is reluctant to let go.

One of a bunch of good eater lakers today.

I read on Yamaha's site the following instructions (10 hours total break-in)

 

-First hour 2000rpm

-Second hour 3000rpm

-Last 8 hours full rpm for not longer than 5 minutes at a time

 

So should I be running a constant 2000,3000 rpm respectively or slowly speed up to each level and run there

for a few minutes then idle down to 1000,1500 etc?

 

Once I can run at full rpm should I be gradually reaching max rpm and holding it for 5 minutes or should I be hammering it?

 

 

I plan to change oil & filter after the first 2 hours, then again when break in is complete. I'm fairly handy with repairs I've just never owned any new outboards and my little car didnt require a break in.

They don't want you to go over 200 rpm during the first hour.

Run around changing rpms. Say cruise at 1500 and then run up to 2000 and down to 1000.

Don't just run it a 2000 rpm for an hour. Motors like to have their rpms varied during break in.

The same procedure should be used at each level until your 10 hours are done.

UHHHHHHHHHHH, I don't know what to say about this boat....

It looks like a Persian used car salesman or maybe Herb Tarlek from WKRP in Cincinatti. :rofl2:

You use these things to chase little green baitfish correct? I would think the bling factor alone would warn the little green suckkas that you were coming from 2 time zones away!!!!!! :tease:

When you're tooling down the lake do you wear the bling bling?

Couldn't find a pic of you but I did find this one of your home girl Laquisha-May!!!

Sorry man, I just couldn't help myself.

One of these would probably make a decent tow vehicle too.

But it's a GM....it will be in the shop more then towing....

I didn't realize that GM made Cat engines...................

Cheaper then gas up here, no complaints... The 900ftlbs of torque is worth it

I think that Yellowknife is the only place in North America where diesel is cheaper than regular gas. :dunno:

Listen we all told you before, get off the soapbox with your TOY, besides my Cummins wheel nuts need more torque than your Toota makes.

OH Yeah??!!??

Well your Cummins and the Yota won't do nuttin' against this tow rig and it's Caterpillar 3116 diesel!!!

Front to back it looks perfect.

Is it level side to side?

It looks like it is tilted to the right in the second pic.

Did one of those deals last fall in Alaska.

A group of tourists from the lower 48 had borrowed a raft of a local fellow and on their last day on the river they went down a back channel that locals and knowledgeable non-locals know to avoid. There were 5 people on the 16' Aire cataraft and they ended up sticking it into a log jam and flipping it. One of the elder gentlemen on the raft was caught under it and nearly drowned even with a life vest on. My buddy and I ended up ferrying them to safety and rescuing the raft the following day. We had to disassemble the raft and move it to a better location. We then let them know to tell the owner where it was and that it had been removed from the log jam. The removal operation took the two of us about 4 hours.

First thing to try is a different hose/primer unit.

Also when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

If the issue is still there it could be a failing fuel pump or a carb problem.

Kings vs Devils in the finals?

Tough to call but I say Kings in 6.

I used to have a big worm box (18"X18"X36") that I would load up every spring by picking on the local baseball fields. Never had to buy worms.

Iam still trying to figure out just what it is that makes a good involved members here .

I think it's pretty simple, someone who contributes and just doesn't hide sucking up all of the knowledge and not giving anything back.