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Sound like there are 3 marinas then. I found Hidden Glen Trailer Park & Marina using the little man and sign post method using exit 168. Hidden glen is off the 400 on the northwestern end of six mile lake. See sign post here--->little man on the B marker If you cross check the address in the link for Hidden glen I posted before and google maps then it works out correctly. "On private road exiting off Hwy 400 S, 2 km S of exit 168. 100 seasonal sites, 18 tent sites. Protected harbour on Georgian Bay. Great fishing, marina service, overnight docking. May - Oct, Hosts: Bob & Katie" I've found the same problem of marina location inaccuracy as the original poster did. So first I found the sign post then cross referenced it with a google search. If you google six mile marina it says its in honey harbour which is also way off the mark. This show one of the weaknesses of using google maps, namely inaccurate location plotting. I learned to virtually drive to a marina in google maps before my first trip there.edit: just the last part from the exit off the highways lol. I don't actually start the virtual drive form my home parking lot.

The other marina is called Hidden Glen Trailer Park & Marina http://www.campgrounds.org/?pageid=133&campground=158

Six mile lake marina (705) 756-2228 google maps link Put the little man on the intersection of Whites Fall road and Vollicks Rd and you can see their sign with phone #

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I'm gonna try these this summer. Sebile Magic Swimmer Soft Swimbait

Holy cow what a nice pic #2. The 4th pic is pretty cool too. Nice action shot. How long was the first pike 35"?

Just to clarify a bit, I'd rather use a wire (I heard 200lb floruo for top water is good too) for topwater and some jerkbaits/glidebaits (because limp flouro tangles in the first treble when I use it) and because I have a hard time making big lures like the Poes walk properly. I tried 80 and 100lb flouro for topwater and it was too difficult for me. For the rest of the time like say spinnerbaits, trolling with a few feet of leader, swimbaits, I love the flouro.

What size and type of reel are you using? If you don't have a dedicated pike/muskie rod and reel and are using your bass baitcaster or a spinning reel (say 3000-4000 size) then using 40+lb mono line would be way too thick. Then it would be a good idea to switch to braid because you could spool up with a thinner diameter braid and still be using 40 lb+. Keep in mind that you could be putting undue stress on a bass reels parts and drag system if you are consistently using it to target larger pike and muskie. The thinner braid will give you easier casting and does not keep memory like mono does. Line memory will lead to increased instances of line tangles. If you have a huge spool reel you could get away with using 50+lb mono but I would not want to cast that heavy rod reel combo all day with a 2-3oz lure. Also note that braid will last longer than mono because mono is affected by UV so you end up changing mono more frequently than braid. Braid can easily last me multiple seasons, especially when I unspool it and use the new end after a 1.5 seasons. Although braid is initially more expensive than mono, it lasts longer, easily 2-4 times than mono. Mono has much more stretch than braid and a pike has a bony mouth making hook setting more difficult than say a bass with a very fleshy mouth. So unless you do very large sweeping hook sets, braid is great at setting the hook, especially when you have 30-50+ feet of line out. You don't need a mono backing to use the braid. MAny people just use electrical tape to keep the braid form spinning on the arbor. PS give a fluorocarbon leader 80lb+ a try some time. Wire leader is great in some pike/muskie lure applications like topwater but I found FLouro safer for the fish when the fish chooses to spin in your line.

ha I learned something else new today. I thought pike and muskie pattern just got more spaced with age. Apparently not. Read this part on another fishing forum where people were debating the same thing as we are: "Just a color variation of small pike where the vermiculations on the back extend down the sides, they grow out of it pretty quickly, and the lines turn into seperate spots. "

internet says http://www.paw-rescu...yFireworks.html * If fireworks are being set off nearby, or if you're having guests over for a holiday celebration, find a quiet, secure place to keep your pets. Darkening the room can help. Crating is also a good idea -- place the crate in the quietest part of the home. Make sure you put safe chew toys in the crate to occupy and distract the pet during the event. You can close the curtains and turn up the radio, CD player or TV to drown out noise. * Rather than cuddle a frightened dog, try to distract the dog from the disturbing noises with physical activity such as playing ball. * Remember that scolding or coddling a scared dog will not help. Scolding will scare and confuse the animal, and coddling serves to reinforce fearful behaviors. Instead, assume your pack leader role and act confident and unbothered by the noise and activity outside. You can give your pet a gentle massage, or use Tellington Touch techniques (see the T-Touch Dog Tip on the PAW website) or even just place your hand calmly on the pet's head. http://www.dogclub.co.uk/advice/fireworks.php Prepare Your Pet for Fireworks - The 5 Do' We are approaching that time of the year again when pets are exposed to the unpredictable loud bangs and flashes of fireworks. Pets simply don't understand what's going on and many are really scared of the whole process. And, unfortunately, they are now subjected to this on a more frequent basis – it's no longer a once a year event. If you know your dog or cat is scared of fireworks, or think he might be, or if you have a puppy or kitten. NOW IS THE TIME TO PREPARE! Desensitisation Many pets are successfully helped through desensitisation. A CD is now available, which simulates the random and unpredictable noises of fireworks. It should be played several weeks prior to the fireworks season, gradually building up the volume and length of time it is played. Your pet will then gradually become used to the noises and begin to ignore them. Distraction Whilst playing the CD, you should also take the opportunity to distract your pet. Either play with him, or give him some training lessons, or give him his favourite toy or chew. This will increase the effect of the desensitisation program by making your pet think on something else whilst the background noise is going on. Den However, also allow your pet some time without this distraction to hear the noise. Hopefully the CD will manage to accustom your pet to the noise so that he'll completely ignore it. However it is really best to be completely prepared and allow him every chance to cope. Create a safe, comfortable and quiet den area for him. Ideally, this should be in a place which is furthest from the fireworks, and where he is used to resting. The room should be able to be darkened to hide the firework flashes. Prepare the area in advance, with lots of comfy blankets to allow him to burrow into if he wants to, and take him there several times before the event, allowing him to settle there with a chew or toy for a while, and feed him there a few times too. Make sure however, that he is free to come and go to this area, taking care not to lock him in the room alone. Some pets find the most unusual place to seek comfort. It has been known for them to hide under desks, in kitchen cabinets and even in the bath! Don't be concerned about this, just work with your pet and think about how they may be finding their chosen place secure. It may even be helpful to provide a pet crate covered with a blanket or a large cardboard box, both filled with comfortable bedding, favourite toys and some water. So, really take some time to think about this – from your pet's point of view - and set up the area where they are most happy. Perhaps they might like to lie under a table covered with a blanket. DAP If you already know that your dog is scared and that he needs some further help then using a DAP along with the CD will be very useful. DAP stands for Dog Appeasing Pheromone. It's a plug in device, similar to an air freshener, which releases calming pheromones into the air. It should be plugged in, in the room where the pet spends most time and switched on 24 hours a day for about 2 weeks prior to, the fireworks. (the DAP can be useful for other behavioural problems too). Feliway is a similar product for cats. D-Day There are several additional steps which can be taken on the day of the event • Check that the den area is accessible, and prepared. • Take your dog for a walk to make sure he has been to the toilet before the fireworks start. • Feed him an hour before the event, adding some potato or white pasta to fill him up and make him sleepy • If you can, set up some rhythmic music in the room. This can help to mask out the noise, so turn it up to a moderate level. Do, however, check that he likes it beforehand – and turn it off if he doesn't, or seems more stressed. • When the fireworks start, take your pet to his den area and encourage him to settle there. • Do NOT try to pat and stroke him in an attempt to sooth him if he is showing signs of stress. This simply rewards how he is behaving and teaches him that he's right to be scared. Don't let him know that you're concerned. • Instead, if he's not settling in his den, try to distract him with a game or an easy training session, but don't force him to play. • You may even want to consider setting up a TV in the “safe” room and simply sitting in there with him. Normal quiet, family company may help to calm him. And a word on safety During high levels of stress, pets can be very unpredictable. They also become unable to take account of their personal safety, and may well panic. Therefore, it is your responsibility to look after their safety needs. Make sure that they have no access to potentially dangerous items around the house, such as open fires or glass doors. Really take the time to do a house safety check. And if you need to take him outside – at any time when a firework may go off - make sure that he is kept safe on the lead. Further information : Ask your vet. if they supply fireworks CD's and DAPS, or contact the Canine Therapy Centre on 01875 813213, or www.k9centre.co.uk who can supply these and also, supply further information on various complementary therapies which may help. If you need further assistance, please contact your vet or a Pet Behaviour Therapist. This behavioural help sheet has been prepared by The Canine Therapy Centre and Pawsability , Members of the Scottish Network of Animal Professionals

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Looks like a hybrid. Great job on your fishing trip. pg 10-11 http://books.google.com/books?id=ttiYPWa4YPAC&lpg=PP1&dq=pike&lr&pg=PA11#v=onepage&q&f=false

Something like this http://www.androlib....buddy-jpip.aspx I did a quick Google search and there many fishing log templates out there for excel, word, or online log online http://www.fishermanslog.com/ ,etc. You could even do a custom log by choosing your most important fields http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?mode=article&objectID=31147&storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1 and enter them in excel and print or you can use http://www.openoffice.org/ if you don't have Excel or Word.

That would be the Modified Albright knot. Although it won over the uni to uni, It looks a bit finicky to tie, http://www.fishingcl...wars-episode-13 Not sure if it is a lower profile knot compared to the uni to uni. They look about the same to me. I wonder how the knot strength compares when using lines of differing physical diameters like say 80 lb braid to 80 lb flouro. I researched it further and found that because of the line diameter differences using heavy lines fishermen are first tying a bimini knot http://www.wonderhow...ng-knot-348148/ then the modified albright

Beat last years champ fish n fool (double eye turn uni). http://www.fishingclub.com/video/articletype/articleview/articleid/2116/categoryid/1016/2010-knot-wars-episode-7 Of course a few you guy will likely chime in with Palomar being your favorite. Not that I'm against that.

You could coat it with a thick epoxy like devcon 2 ton. You could coat it with a thinner epoxy like etex lite which might require a drying wheel at 4-6 rpm to avoid low and high areas. Note that both of these are not UV protected meaning the clear coat would likely yellow in years. There is also dick nites top coat (can't remember if it is Uv protected). There was an epoxy "something 74" (possibly etex) which is uv protect but expensive. I'll look it up and get the correct name tonight when I get back from work. edit: found it but its expensive Ultra-Glo EX-74 http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=391 So although you can protect the finish with epoxy potential problem you might run into are lack of uv protection, how well the epoxy will stick to a very smooth finished lure (you might have to sand the lure a bit for the epoxy to stick) and ANY epoxy you use will effect the action of the lure. Examples would be: Might make it wobble side to side more or it might make it wobble in a slightly diagonal movement in rare cases.

SAw these if you can't find some one to borrow/rent from: http://radioworld.ca...roducts_id=5272 http://radioworld.ca...roducts_id=1750 Also did you check the OFC sales forum? Finally you can turn almost any Fishfinder into a portable using a stick, tupperware and battery with wires. That would cost #$30-50 depending on the price of a battery. So if you find a used fishfinder for cheap (lets say $60) but its not portable, you can make it one with another ~$30.

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Tons of guys know more about muskie handling on this site than me. I use this "Leech Lake Lip Lock" for bigger fish http://globalflyfish...r/pike_landing/ I suggest landmarking with a smaller pike 20" or less then the larger fish are easier because there is more gap under the jaw. Perfect practice makes perfect. I fold my thumb down especially when not wearing a glove. No reason for thumb to be "dangling" in front of a large pike or muskie mouth. Its the other fingers that are doing the holding. I find my confidence with my hand next to a tooth filled mouth goes up 100% when using a puncture proof fishing glove. I bass lip anything under 25" (but over 15") when I'm getting ready to hold it horizontally. I never hold them vertically, and I like using the cradle when I can (but I'm building a holding pen to try out this summer). edit: A few times with the glove on and fish unhooked I just reached underneath with one then both arms and scooped the fish out, bypassing the lip lock completely. It helps not to have the fish too green or else it will thrash in your arms. Also watch your back while lifting bigger fish, try not to twist your torso while lifting. I learned that hard lesson. I think the key to it all is confidence. I noticed scared animals can tell and will use every opportunity to escape if they sense you are unsure. Of course having all your tools ready pliers, bolt cutters, etc will help you avoid disasters.

Cool muskietrout.

I just use my knapsack filled with 1-2 plano boxes and some clothes. Padded shoulder straps are a must. I find a knapsack more practical becaue it can hold much more that the one in your pic and I can use it for work/college. edit: The one in you pic is a tactical bag? Tons of them on ebay. They sell this type too if you want to spin it around and get to your gear easily without having to take the bag off My link IF I travel light I just use my fly fishing vest. Lots of pockets. Kind of hard to remember what I put in each of the pockets though.

Great report! Lots of nice healthy pike you caught there!

I hear ya. I've tried a few fish attractant spays in previous years with pretty good results but they don't stay on the bait for long. I hope the Mega Strike I purchased proves to be awesome this year. Good thing about this stuff is that is not stinky. I can barely smell it, probably because its amino acids. I still do the fish mouth wipe thing for scent as well as good luck.

That use to be me long ago, but once I found my lures with rusted trebles and then I put the tangled lures down beside me on the boat bench. One lure fell on the boat floor. I bent over to pick it up and because of the rolling waves I ended up sitting on the tangled lure mess and got pinched in the behind. That's when I started keeping my tackle somewhat organized and hooks sharpened. I use the humidity absorber packs in my tackle boxes now, the kind you find when you buy electronics, kitchen taps, etc. After I catch my first fish with a new lure I like to wipe the lure with the fishes mouth just to give it a more natural scent. It actually worked well for me when using spinnerbaits and pike. When you fish for pike you don't have to worry about not scratching up lures lol.

Was there a tag on the rod that says what guides they are? Wondering if they are recoil guides? edit: probably not. I'm thinking aluminum oxide.