aplumma
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Posts posted by aplumma
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Nice looking lures wish I had muskies down here to use them. good luck.
Art
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You know I didn't read this thread till now. There is not to be political discussions on here if someone see crap like this please hit the report button.
Thank you
Art
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I have been using a product call grass seed mats from a landscape company. I lay it out and once the grass pokes thru I gently lift it and use it on another area. It is the only thing I have found that keeps the chickens from scratching for the grain. I also have a friend who works for a golf course and the seed mixes they use are the bomb.
Art
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Feel free to give advise however if you are going to name spots keep them to P.M. please.
Art
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1 hour ago, jimmer said:
I can't figure out why; there is a good demand for marine products in this country. I guess I will try Nautalis, the HP that amsoil sells is for injection motors and I was told that injection oil doesn't always stay suspended in a pre-mixed tank.
This is a quote from one of my manuals on high performance two strokes.
Oils made for oil injection use have a considerably thinner viscosity than oils intended for premix. It is unwise to use a premix type oil in an injector because a premix type oil can have difficulty passing through the small orifices in many oil-injection systems. On the same tack, it is a very bad idea to use an "oil-injection" oil in a premix application because the reduced viscosity will not offer the lubrication needed in a pre-mix situation.
art
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5 hours ago, AKRISONER said:
Art,
Ive made it a deal that rather then deal with fuel additives ive started to only purchase ethanol free premium gas for the boat. Do you think this is good enough for the outboard vs using a product like "ring free"
The Sta bil does two things one is for ethanol and as a decarboning product. If you are running ethanol free gas then you still should run some kind of decarboning product. I am not sure what ring free is but the name implies decarboning. Many different fluids use basically the same ingredient with there own secret blend to make it better than others so as long as it is a trusted name you can use it. This said I use these products. Decarboning is Stabil 360 and Seafoam . Ethanol management Stabil 360. Carb disassembly brake cleaner non chlorine. Two stroke lubrication Amsoil 100:1 marine. Winterizing or 1 month storage any engine fogging oil marine.
2 hours ago, DRIFTER_016 said:I also run only ethanol free fuel in my boat.
I use regular Stabil in every tank of fuel as well to keep the fuel from going stale if I don't use the boat for a while.
I double up the amount late in the season so it's well stabilized for the winter.
I like all of what you are doing but see if you can Find Sta bil 360 it has 2 advantages it is twice as concentrated and it creates a fog in the tank that cuts down on corrosion in the tank. I have stored aluminum/ steel tanks with stabil 360 and they all have shown no oxidation/ rust inside when I returned them to service. With the cost of marine engine repairs taking the time and effort to use a few additives pays off in years of service and fewer break downs. I am a big fan of prevention and over building engines to keep them running smoothly for years to come.
Art
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I usually tell people that we are fishing for sharks that way if we get skunked I can explain how hard they are to find in freshwater.
Art
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Chris you can mix 100:1 down to what your equipment advises with no ill effects. They are achieving the 100:1 ratio by additives and blending which are more expensive than dino oil. Dino oil is good enough for most applications and Pennsoil has a big following for a good reason. Personally I use the best products I can find and pay the price simply because maintenance is always cheaper than repairs. I was taught by my engine guru he would always say "that grease is cheaper than metal." Right now I am using 80:1 on all of my motors and on disassemble they look great. The big difference between two stroke and two stroke marine is it's additives that coat the bottom end of the motors to prevent rust. I strictly use the marine version as well as a product called sta bil 360 which is for the ethanol in fuel. The secret of the 360 is it creates a barrier between the air and the gas to lessen it absorption and also it encapsulates the water to allow it to go thru the combustion process without harm. With the use of these additives the engine will run better and longer between services. I get a lot of carburetors brought to me that have nothing more than scum and varnish that have built up in the passages due to sitting and poor fuel management. The engines that I get that fail due to oil related issues are almost always from coking which builds up and does not allow the blow by needed to lubricate the bottom end bearings. (coking and carbon build up are the same thing) Once the ring stops floating in the grooves they will be referred to as (stuck) and they will start to scar the cylinders and this creates heat and expansion. Eventually the compression between the cylinders will create an unbalanced up and down force and destroys the bearings supporting the crank. Finally with all of this unbalanced forces it will break the piston wrist pin and send the crank thru the casings. Depending on the amount of forces at work this can sometimes give you enough warning before it destroys itself or it can be within minutes.
Art
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2 minutes ago, misfish said:
Never had a smoke issue. hmmmmm
As for syn products, never been a fan. Is it still true once you go syn, you can not put reg oil in? Even if you flush the engine?
Brian you can mix the oils without an issue. The difference is the synthetics have a better or cleaner burn than the non synthetic so the wear factor is less. The non synthetic oils burn less clean but they coat the lower end of the motor crankshaft, rods, piston, bearings etc. This means when you store the engine between uses you have less chance of rusting on the parts. Remembering that the first and majority of the work that the oil does is lubricate the top end of the engine it is why I use a synthetic over dino oil. The answer for me is to run the synthetics and use fogging oil between 2 weeks or longer of non use. Most people would find that this is to much of a pain but some of the motors that I am protecting were expensive to build and are worth the few minutes to keep them healthy.
Art
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On 6/6/2018 at 9:43 PM, ecmilley said:
I don't like playing with mix to much. People.like adding oil to make it rich but actually. . are. Making it fuel lean seen lots engines go south doing that.
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner. It is a really hard concept to explain to people that the higher the oil content the leaner the engine runs and the hotter the pistons will get. Part of the cooling process is the atomization of the fuel. Most people think it is the friction that generates the heat that causes the oil to coke and stick a ring. The cheaper the oil is the easier it is to coke. This is not as critical on machines that run in a narrow powerband such as weed eaters and chainsaws so running 100:1 oil that is designed to be run 100:1 does not stick the rings even though it is leaner than designed. After heavily modifying jetskies for racing and a few Yamaha 2 stroke motorcycles RD350 RZ350 amsoil has been used with no oil related failures, cheap oil will kill an engine in my observations.
Art
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I am not sure why your distributor can't get this product. It is still made and distributed by amsoil in the US.
Art
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to keep from sanding the details then use a chemical stripper with fine steelwool. After tacking use a magnet to make sure you got all of the wool off. Good luck
Art
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There is a product called claybar used on auto paint that will buff out scratches in clear coat. The heat has damaged the clear coat and the clay bar might be able to remove the damaged part. It is going to take awhile to buff it out. If you find that you have gone thru the clear coat then sand an area back to the wood and reclear coat it with a polyurethane. Once feathered in use progressive grits of sand paper 1000 1500 2000. The good news is if it does not look right sand it back and redo it.
Art
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The price of a raw material is incorporated in the end price. This is either artificially dropped by a merchant accepting a lower profit margin or by streamlining the cost of producing an item. Both are bad for a business. A drop in profit is not acceptable because it is a cut in working capitol that the company needs. A streamlining is where hours and employee are cut back on or worst the benefits that previously enjoyed are cut or eliminated. To limit this type of slippery slope a tit for tat type of attitude should be avoided. The Governments will make up a limited list and this will go forward as to what tariffs we will impose/trade till both parties feel they have equally punished each other. The pendulum will swing the other way and return to status quo. A business that reacts and cuts orders and friendships that they have cultivated over the years will not be able to return to status quo when the correction occurs. If I were a merchant that sold across the border an explanation of what caused the price increase as well as a promise to not cut quality or timely product delivery would keep the business happy. The person who is hurt by the tariffs is the end product user who has no one to pass the cost on to.
Art
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I replaced my two system in August and the Goodman was offered as a way to save money on the installation. The biggest difference was the blower unit that the goodman used was just a fixed rate 2 speed blower where the Carrier has an infinite speed unit as well as an different compressor motor. I went with the carrier because of these reasons as well as the support in parts were much better in the area I live in. Over the winter the variable speed motor was much quieter with the humidifier running and my electric bill and propane bill both went down due to the efficiency of the heat pump and motor speed reductions.
Art
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Trade wars are just a lose lose situation. I will spend as much money as needed to get products from Canada that has a higher quality than what is made in the USA. To do otherwise is to give credence and validity to the trade war syndrome. Many of my rods and lures were made in Canada and some of our major factories are there making products for our homes and businesses.
Art
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If this gets any more political it will be locked.
Thanks
Art
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Terry the hidden cost of the tankless heaters are they do scale up. It needs to be capped off and solvent clean every 1-3 years depending on the build up rate. They also allow people to use more hot water meaning 3 kids and 2 adults all want to shower in the morning call all get a 10 minute shower. With a conventional heater 75 gallons they all will get a 5 minute shower. The BTU rating of the tankless heaters have up to 3 times the burn rate so they can keep the coils hot when the water flows thru. So 50 minutes of 3 times the burn rate is 150 minutes of burn time compared to 75 gallon 1/3 burn rate for 1 hour. That means to keep the water warm thru the day to equal the amount of gas consumed the heater would have to run just shy of 2 hours. Now if people use the tankless heater in the same pattern meaning 5 minute showers then they do save money.
Art
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Dan if you go from off to full throttle does the cart move up to speed? If it goes up to speed and then backs off it is a governor. If it does not move then it is an adjustment. On some there is a bolt on the floor as a pedal stop that is a physical stop to keep you from pulling the voltage resister past a physical point. Some people remove or lower the bolt to see if it will go faster but it is not the governor that some think it is.
Art
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If you do use a rope lure please take the time to remove all of the fibers before releasing them otherwise they can not feed or breath correctly.
Art
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Keep posting information Chad Blueye has been sent a note on the issue and the next time he checks in he will follow up on it.
Art
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Is it only on a mobile unit and what is it actually blocking?
Art
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what is a black out cube?
Art
OFC ADVERTISING NOW ?????
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We send out a monthly e mail to all of the members to show them a sample of what is going on to see if they want to visit more often. We are hoping to get the site to pay for all of the security and program upgrades we are doing to enhance the site. If you do not wish to receive it you can opt out in your settings/ other settings under your profile. We hope in the future to add some of the other projects that T.J. has cooking. We will have to see if we can do it without burning out our I.T. Blueye aka Chad.
Thanks to everyone and Chad for helping us do some much needed maintainance
Art