DanD

Things just keep getting better; don't they????????????? Got up this morning and was going to help my daughter's boyfriend with his vehicle. Go to the shop at around 8am; and the phone is ringing. It's my son (he's at the girl friend's house) and he's asking me if I was pulling some form of joke on him. I said no and what do you mean; "if you're not then somebody stole my car". Now this is a 10 year project car that my son and I have been working on. It's 1979 Firebird; that we have done, a frame up restoration on. He was 15 years old when we started on this thing and I figured, with me being a mechanic; that this is the best way (other then fishing), to keep him occupied and out of trouble. Well some idiot thought that they wanted the car more then we did and last night, sole it from the laneway? I know it just a piece of machinery but this car has been a part of my son's and mine history and some prick took away from us. So SCREW all the politically correct bull; the person that took the car needs to be shot and pissed on. We'll likely never see it again; it's probably already pieced out; being that it was a 12 second street legal car. As for the COPS; they said the car was likely stolen by some kids for the Stereo; yea right. It wasn't kids they would have to know how to break the steering column (pieces found on the laneway) and then how to operate a B&M shifter; let alone a carbureted, no choke engine. Sorry for this but I'm pissed!!!!!!!!! Dan

SS prop; man that would make me cry, hurting one of those. With the way you seem to be organized; you likely have a spare aluminum prop on board; maybe worth putting it on for this August’s trip? Dan.

We’ll be there the first week of August; Cabin 1, out on the large rock facing Squaw Island channel. We’ll miss each other by a week or so; but I’ll try and put an X on the water, at the new Skag eating rocks for you. LOL Billy Bob. No such a release or whatever you want to call it on this 04 Honda 40 tiller. If there is, it’s not listed in the manual (shop manual) and mine aint working; $500.00 for a new prop and having the skag welded. It looked like the cookie monster took a bite out of it. Dan.

Just received a reply to an email I sent to Memquisit Lodge; we staying there again this August and they said that yes; the level in their area is also about three feet lower then “normal”. Over the last 5 or 6 years of fishing the west arm & west bay; I was starting to feel comfortable of where and what was safe water. I guess I’ll be going back to sitting on the edge of the seat and starring at the graph; trying not to introduce the skag of the motor to anymore chunks of Canadian Shield. That’s the only thing I hate about the power trim on this Honda motor; the hydraulics won’t allow the motor to kick up, if you tag something. With my old Suzuki manual trim; I could leave the motor unlocked and if we did hit a rock, it would just lift and skid; it did scare the crap out of you, if you forgot and stuck the motor in reverse. LOL Dan.

On a positive note; he didn’t say you were fired for not backing up your computer. LOL Dan.

Yes there is a one day license; can be had at most of the regular outlets. Outdoors card not required and the cost is $11.25. Dan.

Speaking of trailer straps, being left on; we pulled that stunt. My buddy’s boat, first time at this launch and we’re thinking it must be a real shallow ramp. He kept backing in, waiting for the tops of the fenders to under water; then we realized that we were floating the trailer. LOL Dan.

Maybe you should think of changing out the marker buoys from their storage area for a set of defibrillation paddles. 80mph on the water; would likely give me a heart attack and they’d be nice & handy there. LOL Nice boat; I can only dream. Dan.

I’ve got an appointment tomorrow away from the shop; so I won’t be here after 2pm; but I’ll be here all day Friday or at least most of it; if I can’t sneak away. LOL I will also tell my one tech (Dave) that you might be calling or stopping in and what the deal is for the tires or mounting of tires. Just tell him you’re an OFC’er and he’ll look after you. The name of the shop is D&S Auto and we’re at 90 Bessemer Rd. Unit #6; corner of Bessemer Rd. & Bessemer Court. Even if we don't strike a deal on tires; it'll be nice to meet you. Dan.

Tires can be a personal preference item and you’re doing the right thing by putting out your questions. I deal mostly in Goodyear; I do have lines on different tires, just maybe not as good a break on the other name brands. Like I said if you’re interested I’m here in town; give me a call or stop into the shop and we can do some phone shopping using my shops discount (whatever that might be) to see what’s out there and what we can get them for. You can have the tires at my cost and I’ll charge you $20.00 a wheel to mount & balance. That’s how I priced the Silent Armor earlier and I don’t care what brand of rubber you buy. Even if you do a cash & carry from another store; I’ll still mount them for you at that price. Dan.

The C load range is likely all you would need weight carrying wise. As for the traction; I just called my supplier and had a look at the tread design of the Silent Armor and of the Wrangler AT/S and they’re not that different. Yes possibly the AT/S may be a bit more aggressive tread but that’ll also make them quite noisy on the road. When these AT/S come off of backorder (min one month), they’ll sell at the same price as the Silent Armor C rated tire; which the AT/S are as well (C rate). The Silent Armor also comes with an 80,000klm tread wear warrantee; the AT/S doesn’t. You didn’t say whether this truck is 2 or 4 wheel drive; if it’s a 2 wheel drive, it’s not going any further in the mud, then what the drive train can push it; regardless of the tire. Dan.

If people are throwing out pricing; I can sell & install a set of LT265/70R17 load range C (6ply) Silent Armor for $1120.00; that’s with OTS (Ontario Tire Stewardship fee), valve stems, balancing and tax’s included. HST will not affect tire pricing; we’ve always have had to charge both P & GST; 13 % is 13% whatever you want to call it. Or the pro-grade load range E (10 ply) Silent Armor for $1196.95. all in. The load capacity of the C tire is 2470lbs@50psi compared to the E that is 3195lbs@80 psi. The E load rated tire will ride somewhat harder but it’ll carry almost any weight you throw at it. The Silent Armor doesn’t actually have the AT rating but Goodyear’s propaganda sheet says it’s a “Premium on-/off- road tire”? Then there’s an $80.00 mail-in rebate on a set of four. If you’re interested; my shop is here in London. 519-681-3844 PS: I just did a quick count of different Goodyear Wrangler tires and I found 13 types in the main listing and didn’t look at how many sub groups there were. So if you buy the wrong tire for your application sure they’re going to seem like crap. Dan.

Is it dripping from the end of the prop, where the exhaust is emitted or from in between the lower unit housing and the prop? If from the center of the prop most likely engine oil residue; possibly from engine blow-by, due to sitting all winter or if the engine was fogged; it’s left over from that. If the oil is from between prop and housing; then possibly lower unit seal. Also organic gear oil (not so much synthetic) has a very distinctive smell; so if you have any left over from when you changed the lower end oil; compare the smell. If you suspect that the oil is from the lower unit; you can have the lower end pressure tested by most any repair facility. It’s a very simple test procedure; by attaching a hand held air pump to the fill hole of the unit. Apply about 5psi; stand back and look for the source of the leak. I would confirm what the source of this oil is; you must know what making an assumption usually makes us. LOL Dan.

Multi purpose bailing bucket. LOL ie. milk bag jug.

You may have that the one side a little too tight? Tapered roller wheel bearings need to be left just the slightest bit loose; for the sake of heat expansion; you have to leave some room for the boys to grow. I’m not saying a visible amount of wheel movement like an 8th of an inch; but enough that you can feel that the wheel does have some, when you grasp the top and bottom of the wheel. I guess if you where to measure the wheel movement lets say on a 13 or 14 inch wheel; I’d be happy with a 32nd of an inch. If the cotter pin slot will not let you install the pin, in the sweet spot between loose and no free play; I would opt for the looser position. If it’s too loose with the cotter pin installed; you may have to install shims between the washer and the nut or if you’re lucky to find a selection of washers; change up the washer for one with the correct thickness to hit that sweet spot. Dan.

I have seen this a number of times, on some of the lightweight economy trailers. Yea it’s not the norm but it works without the washer. The washer’s purpose is more of a safeguard in the chance that the outer bearing fails and starts spinning the inner race of the bearing. This spinning can weld the inner race to the washer with the hope that it will not weld to the nut and then spin the nut off (left side); while driving down the road. I would suggest having another look at the spindle nut and the cotter pin’s hole’s orientation; with the bearing preload set. Is there room for a washer and still get the proper sized cotter pin in? If not that’s the way it was intended to be; if there is room for a washer, it won’t hurt putting one in; making sure it is of the proper metal grade. Dan.

Not my first experience with a CO; but a lasting one. That kind of sounds like the Barney Fife, four foot nothing tall, butt wipe; we had a run-in with, up in Matachewan. This CO shows up at our cottage with a trainee in tow; likely due to some jealous people at the camp, calling the tips line? It wasn’t our fault that they were too hung over to get up in the mornings and that’s what I told them when they asked for our secret to finding the fish? But that’s a different story; about people minding their own business and not making assumptions about other people. This CO literally ransacks our cottage, after not finding a freezer full of fillets; like he thought he was going too. Tipping the couch on its side, flipping the beds mattresses; he even sent the trainee under the cottage, on his belly to have a look around? After not finding any over limit fish; because there was none to find; he went back to the fridge where we had our mornings catch, (that we showed him) cleaned and in a ziploc bag; waiting for us to hopefully add to it for that night’s supper. He then asked who cleaned the fish and I told him it was me; at which point he starts writing me up for improperly packaged “no skin left on”. When I confronted him saying that’s our supper; that it’s not being transported any further then the stove; he said the only way he would believe that was if the pan was on the stove and the burner turned on. I also told him I could show him the remnants of the fish because they would still be in the cleaning hut; not interested was what I got from him. Ok I guess legally, I was in the wrong but we were having them that night; plus most people can tell the difference between a pike and pickerel fillet; a CO sure should be able to? There was only three or four fish in the bag; all of which were in season. As he’s handing me the ticket he says with a big assed smile on his face; you are more then with-in your rights to challenge this in court. Knowing; dam well that I’m not going to drive 9 hours back up to whatever courtroom in the Matachewan area; too fight a seventy some odd dollar charge. This “Conservation officer” was on a power trip from the minute he walked through the door of the cottage (unannounced). The only time he removed his hand from the butt of his pistol was to write me up; if you would see the group of people that were with me (6) you would understand that was totally uncalled for. I also had my son with me, he was only 10 or 12 then and he was scared; asking me what we did wrong; why is this guy doing this? All I could say to him was; it’s because he can and he wasn’t leaving until he had laid some form of charge. We told the camp owner about our visitors and when he saw the name of the officer on the ticket; he said we all know him very well up here; he also said “to tell you the truth; I’m surprised that he (the CO) hasn’t been found in the bush, buried in a shallow grave”. Yea I know not all CO’s are like what this guy is/was; but it does leave a permanent image of what they can be like (and do), if they have a mind too. Just so no one jumps all over what the camp owner said to me; it was meant along the same lines, as what somebody pissed off would say at the spur of the moment. Dan.

In theory any structure built on or over navigable water, would have required the approval of the Canadian Coast Guard under the Navigable Waters Protection Act. I don’t think anyone is going to give a permit for your planks or your car’s hitching post; nor would they give anyone a permit for a dock; if it’s purposed location and construction didn’t meet the requirements set out in the regulations. The Superintendent of Navigable Waters Protection is in Sarnia at 201 North Front St., Ste. 703, Sarnia, ON N7T 8B1. or at least it was. Dan

True enough but there are still hooks to set in waiting for the summer's swimmers. My brother’s personal best at his dock was about an eighty pound grandchild. The way he's been trying to handle this; is by explainning about the kids swimming and then try and point the fishers to another spot, where they may have some luck; his neighbor’s dock. LOL Dan.

Now I’m not condoning anyone, going off the end of their stick and chasing people away like a mad man; there are better ways of handling things; like asking politely to leave and explaining why. Maybe I should start by asking everyone take a couple of minutes and have a look at the land or dock owner’s side of this. The only example I have; that can maybe explain some of their attitude towards fishing their docks; is the damage and or the injuries they have occurred by allowing fishing to happen that close. My brother’s boat; while at dock, has had the top torn a number of times by someone’s wild casts; which lodged hooks into the canvas top. The boat itself scratched and banged up against by fishers trying to free a snag. My brother has been woken up in the morning while sleeping in the cuddy of his boat, by a fisherman standing on the swim platform; trying to release their snagged line. His grand kids on two separate occasions had to be taken into the hospital to have hooks removed; due to unseen hooks that were stuck to the dock; under the water line. Now these people fishing at or around his dock; for the most part, were not there being idiots or uncaring. If there is/was an issue they; for the most part, would always apologized; but apologies don’t fix the damage or cure injuries they caused. What would you do if this was your dock or boat and there was a fisher, trying to get the snagged hook out of it; just to break off the line and then leave? Or every time that your kids wanted to go swimming off the dock; you have to go check and hopefully find the hooks stuck in the wood frame or the ladder? All I’m saying is that yea maybe we have the right to fish there but is it the right thing to do? No I’m not a dock owner; I fish out of my 16 foot tinny and I tow everywhere; but I have seen the results of allowing strangers to close to your stuff. I don’t think anyone here that has fished docks can honestly say that they’ve never been snagged and had to break off. I also think fishing docks from your boat; regardless of how good the fishing might be; is the same as dropping anchor, right beside the only other boat on the lake; give everybody their space. Ok guys let me have it; I know I’m on the wrong side of this thread; but wouldn’t you be a little concerned if it was your dock, boat or family? Dan.

Take the boat home and make up a bit of a stand (saw horses), so the boat will sit level and then throw a garden hose in the boat. Fill the boat up with water; to where you think the water line would be and look for any drips. It’ll make finding the source of a leak a lot easier and your butt won’t be sitting in a sinking ship. Dan.

Too bad Italo wasn’t a member here; he’d probably answer this question, from first hand knowledge. LOL Dan.

Right or wrong; I have to agree with blarg that dealing with insurance companies are a one-way, (their way) dealings. I was with a company for several years, here at my garage; paying some very (what I thought) high premiums and never put in a claim to them for anything. Not until I was broken into and the thieves got away with better then 40 Grand in tools & equipment. During the claim process they were great; told me to have the Snap-on & Mac Tools guys bill them direct, for the missing equipment; no questions asked, after they received the police report. I was back in business within the next day or two and the tool guys were paid by the end of that month. But now when it came to renew my policy; they said no thank you; we’re not willing to offer you one. They’re explanation was that the location of my business, was in a high crime area of the city and they no longer were insuring businesses in this area? They didn’t want to hear anything; not the improvements I made to the security of the building, the alarm system I installed, nothing. They said move and we may offer you a new policy; but likely at a much higher premium. What 12 Grand a year wasn’t enough, to turn a profit; do the math. I ended up going to a broker to find a carrier for me and luckily they found one fairly quickly or I would have been closed down. I know that sounds extreme but for example you must have ( I believe) a minimum of a million five liability or Drive Clean will revoke your license and drop you out of the program; that was a 60 grand investment for me, to become a Drive Clean facility. Then there’s environmental; that is also delegated by the government; that you must have. So yes it’s organized rip-off, you can’t call it crime; the government says it’s legal. Sorry done with my rant. Dan.

I hope I understood your last post correctly; as in all lights are working, other then your right side brake light? If so and you can run a combination of lights as in right turn flashing and parking light; with them working normally; then its not likely a ground issue. I would go and find the turn signal/hazard flasher module under the left side of the dash. This module is not only the flasher unit for the vehicle; it is also the (lack of better word) splitter for the brake and turn signals. With you saying that the right signal is working; that tells us that the dark green wire from the flasher module to the trailer is good. This same green wire is the brake light wire for the trailer. We also know that the module is receiving a brake light signal from the brake light switch because the left brake light is working. What we need to know is whether the flasher module is sending out a brake light on the Dr green wire at the module. The module may have lost the ability to make this internal electronic connection but sill allowing all other functions. Again this module is under the left (drivers) side of the dash. It’ll have a 10 wire connector on it, labeled alphabetically from A to K; these letters are printed very small and are hard to see. Well at least for me; I can’t see them without my glasses. LOL. The terminal in the connector, you need to check is “D”; which is one of the two dark green wires at the module. The other dark green terminal “F” is the left turn signal input from the turn signal switch. The letter designations should be on the connector’s side. Here is the connector’s terminal lettering and what they are; they skip the letter I. A- Lt green wire: Right turn signal input from switch B- White wire: Brake light input from brake light switch C- Yellow wire: Trailer left turn/brake output D- Dr green wire: Trailer right turn/brake output E- Black wire: Module ground F- Dr green wire: Left turn signal input from switch G- White wire: Hazard input from switch H- Yellow wire: Left turn output to fuse panel under rear seat J- Tan wire: Right turn output to fuse panel under rear seat K- Orange wire: Battery power feed (hot at all times) Not all of these terminals are power some are grounds; all we’re concerned with is if there is power on the Dr green terminal "D" wire, when it should have (brake applied or right turn). Now with a test light clipped to a known good ground and the probe connected to the Dr green wire “D”; the test light should light steady, with the brake peddle applied and then flash with the right turn, turned on. The module must remain connected during the test. Why I suggest using a test light is that it applies a load on the circuit; where a voltmeter will not. Sometimes a circuit will need a load applied brfore it will show a fault. Keep it fun and let us know what you find. Dan.

I’m thinking that where your problem is, is the truck’s rear lights, use six different circuits to run the rear lights; left turn, right turn, stop left, stop right, back-up and parking lights From what I got from your description, is that you’re trying to get the four circuits of the truck's turn & brake light circuits to work on a two circuit trailer setup; left turn/stop, right turn/stop; the parking lights are on their own circuit for both sides. The manufacturer has combined the stop and turn circuits for you, when they ran the factory trailer plug, via the combination turn signal/four way flasher module. You’re right about the red and blue wires they are auxiliary (red) power and trailer brake (blue). At the trailer plug harness; the yellow is left turn & stop, the dark green is right turn & stop; brown being parking lights for both sides. The light green is for back-up lights; which I’ve yet to see on a small trailer; so why? LOL The white wire as in all trailer lighting circuits is the ground. So if by chance you’ve been trying to tag into the dark blue and light blue wires (stop & turn) for the actual lights of the truck; you’ll need to make another trip to P.A. and buy a splitter box that will combined the four stop & turn circuits into two circuits; via its electronics. Like I said the manufacturer has already done this combining for you so I would try using that 7 wire harness to connect the trailer light; using only the circuits you need. There are fuses hid all over the place for the lighting systems on these trucks; under hood, dash and back seat, so make sure they are all still ok I have the wiring diagrams for this truck’s exterior lighting circuits; they may help you understand my ramblings. If you want them PM me your email address and I’ll send them to you. Dan.