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There are always threads asking about buying used boats this time of year. Below is a sticky from iboats.com. Everyone looking at a used boat should have this list with them and use it. I don't think there is a copyright infringement as it is generic. Every buyer of used experienced or not should have this list with them when looking at a new to them boat. (for some reason I am able to copy and paste onto OFC, not doable for a while now, quote feature works as well. The only thing not working is posting pictures and the Word options). I thought it was my technical short comings not posting pics but I asked my I.T. guy to show me and he tried a few different ways to do it and ensured it wasn't me it's how my machine talks to OFC's machine. It took him 10 minutes to tell me that though. Maybe this can be stickered to the top of the forum here and classified.

 

A Good Buyers check list for a used boat both Aluminum or Fibreglass

 

 

The absolute FIRST and MOST important question you should ask the seller is this.

 

DO YOU HAVE THE PROPER PAPERWORK.

 

The boat is a useless paperweight without it. That includes the trailer. In Ontario the trailer is registered with Ontario Ministry of Transportation and all pleasure boats are registered with the Federal Gov. If there is no paper work at all registering with the Feds is not a huge undertaking. We did it 3 years ago and it cost us to get all the documentation notarized by a Notary Public (100 bucks), photos of the boats serial numbers and engine #'s, the boat itself and pics of the registration numbers that were on the hull. Within 2 weeks we had the clean registration.

 

(Opinion of American buyer, it can be complicated in the US as the registration is different state to state) Absolutely positively DO NOT believe that obtaining a title is easy because in most cases it isn't. As a matter of fact offer the seller an extra $100.00 to get the proper paperwork, I bet you 95% of the time the seller will say no at that point walk away no matter how pretty and shiny the boat is WALK AWAY.

 

We are going to Start with the hull.

 

The hull.

 

 

Start at the bow outside and work your way back.

 

Go over it from bow to stern with a fine tooth comb Are there any major knicks or gashes.

 

Are there any splits in the fiberglass.

 

Look for gel coat spidering or stress cracks.

 

Is the gel coat or paint faded or is bright as if it has been cared for?

 

Is the hull straight no major dents in especially on the bottom side. I.e. an obviously visible hook in the hull.

 

Is there barnacle build up on it anywhere?

 

How does the rub rail look is it mashed in anywhere? (signs that a boat was owned by an inexperienced owner).

 

Look for brown water staining visible around the transom motor mount bolts streaking down from them (for an outboard).

 

Look for brown water staining streaking down from the splashwell plug (again an outboard).

 

Look at the trim i.e. (lights, rubrail trim, horns, anything metal) does it look pitted and corroded or well maintained?

 

Move to the inside of the hull.

 

Start from bow to stern

 

How is the general condition of the upholstery does it look well cared for?

 

How solid is the floor in ALL spots if it is spongy squishy or weak in any spots walk away (unless you are looking for a project). Don't believe that it is going to be a simple fix boats tend to rot from the bottom up.

 

Lift all the hatches and look underneath are there any signs of dampness or rot?

 

Poke prod and feel everything especially all of the hidden areas.

 

Look in the ski locker if equipped how does it look any signs of dampness or rot?

 

Look at the seat bases for signs of dampness and rot.

 

Look at the carpet is moldy and mildewed, or does it have normal wear.

 

If the floor is Plywood encased in fiberglass which is painted look for signs of delamination (fiberglass pulling up).

 

Test all of the electronics.

 

Make sure the bow and stern light are functioning properly.

Make sure the horn is working properly.

Make sure the bilge pump and blower are working properly.

Follow the wires do they look like they are properly connected and running through proper USCG approved fuse boxes? Does the wiring look like proper marine grade wire.

Test the radio and speakers make sure they are connected and working properly.

Test the steering to make sure it functions properly and easily.

 

Move to the stern.

Lift all of the hatches and motor cover.

 

Inspect the motor mounts do they look dry and clean inspect for dampness and rot.

 

How does the bilge look is it clean or has someone been draining the oil into the bilge?

 

Are there signs of brown water stains in the bilge area?

 

Inspect the transom from the inside look for signs of rot.

 

Tap on the inside of the transom with a rubber mallet how does it sound does it sound rock solid or kind of hollow does it feel solid or does it feel like mush.

 

In my experience not many will let you core drill a sample from a transom which is the biggest "no sale" section of a good or bad boat. What you can do is put pressure on the bottom end of an outboard with your foot, no need to jump up and down on it which I saw one person do. If that transom flexes at all there's a good chance she is rotting or rotten. There is the odd situation that a vehicle including boats look like crap, never been cleaned inside, never washed etc. but is mechanically sound. Generally if it looks like a scow 99% of the time it is. And just because it looks good it doesn't mean it is mechanically or the hull is sound, you can put a lot of lipstick on a Pig to shine her up. It was asked recently if it's OK to ask why the seller is selling, I think it is OK. There are many ways to ask that question. I.E "Mam this is a beautiful boat, I don't know if I would be selling it". Many times a seller will give you an answer.

 

Feel free to offer more tips.

 

 

 

Collector of weapons of mass distraction

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Old Ironmaker

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