Lund bilge replacement report

[Guest lundboy]

Just thought I give you Lund owners a heads up on replacing a Bilge pump in a 2000 era Lund.

 

You might want to check the state of your bilge pumps.

 

I started out thinking that I would replace the factory bilge pump in my 2000 Mr. Pike with an automatic 750GPH after seeing the new Tundra that sank. The hose connector is 3/4" btw.

 

So I unscrew the 8" access cover in the splashwell and locate the pump, grab hold of the top of it and it falls off! I didn't even twist it!

 

Come on Lund! I would expect better than this!

 

Hmmm... then I look closer. The (supposed to be detachable) base is pop riveted to a bent aluminum plate scrap that is attached to a stringer by 2 more rivets. The whole plate kind of "hovers" off the hull plate by about 1/8" and is acting like a spring.... YUK.

 

Obviously this plate (and the pump) has been bouncing off of the hull plate all these years and did a number on the original pump, cracking the case and the plastic tabs that held it to it's base.

 

-First thing I had to do is get a drill into that 8" access hole and drill out the rivets on the stringer. Easier said than done in the dark with one hand.

-Removed the plate. Drilled out rivets holding old pump base to plate.

-Checked placement for new pump (Rule-Mate 750) and marked it's base mounting holes.

-Drilled new holes in plate

-Drove to CTC (on a Saturday, it was like a mad house) for a pop rivet tool (which I already had one at home 30Km away, I was at a friends house) and some 3/16"x1/4" rivets and a new 3/4" hose clamp

-Riveted the base down to the plate

-Glued a 1/4" thick 5"x5" piece of rubber tire under the plate (for a little more support)

 

-Here's the tricky part... riveting the plate back on the stringer. I couldn't squeeze the rivet tool handles with one hand through the hole!

Solution... Use short a 2x4 placed on the inside bottom of the hull, and rest the lower handle of the rivet tool on the 2x4 and push down on the upper handle.

-Cut wires to length on the new pump and crimp new spade lugs on the brown and black wires

-Hook up hose using new clamp

-Snap pump onto base

-Hook up to existing wires

-Put some water in the bilge to test

-Turn on power

-Done

 

Later on I will attempt fish a 2 conductor wire up to the console fuse panel (there's a wiring conduit right by the pump) so that I can hookup the third wire from the pump for a manual override. I ordered a new SPDT (3 position) lighted Contura switch from Westmarine to replace the existing SPST.

 

All in all it took 2.5 hrs. (not count trip to CTC) I thought it might be about 1 hr.

Edited May 13, 2007 by lundboy

[bucktail]

Thanks for the heads up.

Good to know what I will get into when the time comes!

[Billy Bob]

Sounds like you did a nice job. Every spring I expect I'll have to replace my bilge or live well pump on my 1985 Grumman. But knock on wood it just keeps on tick-en. Last year I did replace the on/off switch on the live well with a timer switch. Should of done that YEARS ago.

 

Bob

[Pigeontroller]

It would be an easy job other than trying to work through that 8" hole...