Floor and transom replacement NF

[livinisfishin]

Hey guys

I have an older aluminum boat that i have to replace the floor and the transom. I have done some research on the net about it but would like some first hand experience from those of you who have done it before.

 

thanks

[Dutch]

I replaced the transom in an aluminum boat I owned. Time consuming for sure, lots of satisfaction when it was done though.

 

Make sure you use the proper materials - marine grade plywood, stainless hardware etc.

[zamboniwaterboy]

I replaced the transom in an aluminum boat I owned. Time consuming for sure, lots of satisfaction when it was done though.

 

Make sure you use the proper materials - marine grade plywood, stainless hardware etc.

 

 

West System epoxy, take your time, have a plan, if all else fails Craigs Marine in Sudbury does an awesome job!

 

 

 

[krixxer]

When I got my boat I needed to fix the floor transom and give 'er a general paint job. Materials were around 1k a few cases of beer and 3 months of weekend work at the shop.

 

If i had to pay someone to do the work (I have a paint shop) I think it would have been better to buy a newer boat. I think I have around 100 hours on her.

 

Now that she is done and ready I think she will be good for another 10 years +

[whiskywizard]

I've done it before. If the boat model has much interior furniture, consoles, etc, the floor is more effort than the transom, however the transom work is more critical to the final function and safety of the boat.

 

Mine was a Sea Nymph FM161. Mid-70s vintage.

 

I didn't use marine grade plywood, but I was careful to completely encapsulate and seal the new transom, including through-hulls and all holes I drilled for fasteners.

 

1. In my case I used 3 sheets of plywood sandwiched together; I think it was 3/4"-1/2"-3/4". That gave me the same thickness that was there previously.
2. I made a stiff cardboard template from the transom hole and used that to cut the plywood. I cut each one separately and slightly over-sized.
3. Then I laminated all three together with West System epoxy. be sure to sand the faces first with coarse paper and a RO sander.
4. Using a belt sander, I took the perimiter edge of "plywood sandwich" down to the exact dimensions of my template, checking for a good dry-fit in the boat a few times as as I sanded.
5. Then I "painted" the entire new transom with West System, 2 coats, all surfaces.
6. On the Sea Nymph, I was able to leave the aluminium transom hull skin in place when I removed the old plywood. Once the new transom wood was a good fit, I cleaned the back side of the aluminium and the hull where it would contact the edges of the plywood. Scuffed everything with coarse sandpaper, and scuffed the transom's aft face, and glued the plywood in using more West System epoxy thickened with cabosil.
7. After that, it was a matter of reinstalling throughhull scuppers, transducer board, fixture screws, etc. For each one, I installed the fastener with marine polyurethane caulking to prevent water instrusion in future.
8. I painted the inside of the new transom with paint. This was to protect the West System from UV.

It's been more than a few years - I think I remembered the important bits. The floor is similar, and the most important thing is sealing it properly. Anything you do will be better than what the factory did!

[boombap]

http://www.tinboats.net/forum

 

Everything you need to know about fixing up aluminum boats. I have started my project on my 14 footer in December, should be ready by the spring.

[livinisfishin]

Seems like im going to be putting some serious work into my boat aswell as putting my carpentry skills to the test. Atleast in the end ill have something that should last me 10 years or more if i do it right. Thanks for the replies so far!