Carolina Rig Tutorial (part 1)

[Basskicker]

Here's something that I found that I thought you would like to read.. it's long but worth the time to read....

 

 

The Carolina rig is simple to rig, very efficient in producing bass, and uncomplicated to use. However, it seems to be a method of last resort, rather than the first choice for most fishermen. The multitude of rigging choices enshroud this method of fishing, deep in a quagmire of uncertainty, and because of this mystification the recreation angler seldom uses the Carolina rig effectively. Rod selection, reel preference, line selection, weight option, leader strength and length, whether to use beads or not, and types of swivels are topics of deep and intense dialogue amongst fishermen when the rig is mentioned. Among the experienced fishermen the rig is considered at the top of the list of their choices.

 

 

The debate about the history of the Carolina rig leads to controversy and uncertainty. However it should be agreed that no matter how or why the Carolina rig came about, learning this simple but deadly method of fishing should be paramount in your fishing arsenal. It is an extremely successful method of bait presentation in all depths of water and its only restriction is the cover that you are trying to move it through.

 

 

Since its only limit of use is the cover that you are trying to move it through let’s look at the areas that it wouldn’t be recommended in. Areas of extreme vegetation such as heavy hydrilla don’t lend themselves to unproblematic usage of a Carolina rig. An area where the brush coverage is dense is another such area. Areas were the bottom is made up of boulders that are very close is another area where the rig is sure to get caught up. All other areas are potentials for the use of this rig, so as you can readily see, the Carolina rig is an extremely adaptable rig.

 

 

The various components:

 

 

The rod: To be most effective the rod should be a longer rod, (7 to 7.5 feet), with a good backbone and fast tip. It doesn’t have to be an expensive rod, for example we use a Shimano Convergence MH, 7.0 rod for most applications. This is a rod that can be gotten in Wal-Mart for under $40.00. The reason for the longer rod will become apparent as we discuss how the bait is moved and the hook set.

 

 

Reel: The reel should have a fairly fast retrieve. When I discuss reels with anyone my advice is buy the best reel that you can afford. The reel can be used on multiple rods and dollars and cents is a definite factor in reel quality.

 

 

Line: The line will depend greatly on the location that you fish. However for general purposes it should have strength of at least 14 pounds for most areas. The type of line is a matter of personal choice and it is an area of definite intense discussion and disagreement in the fishing population. However, remember that in choosing the line it needs to be of sufficient strength and quality to stand up to the area you will be fishing. We use as a standard, 15-17 pound good quality monofilament.

 

 

Swivel: The swivels used should be of good quality and as small as possible. The general function of the swivel is as a stopper for the weight rather than keeping out line twist and you want it as unobtrusive as possible. Several weight stoppers have emerged on the market and they can be readily used in place of the swivel.

 

 

Weight: Choosing the type and amount of weight to use is another area of controversy, however bearing in mind that the rig calls for the weight to be in constant contact with the bottom will help with the weight side of the equation. Bottom consistency and the type of cover that you are coming through determine whether to use a bullet type weight or an egg type weight. We use 3/8-ounce weights as a starting point and rarely use less than that.

 

 

Leader: The length and the type of line to be used as the leader, ranks right in there as the most discussed and disagreed upon component of this rig. As a general reference we use 18 inches of leader per 10 feet of water. Keep in mind however that the length can also be affected by what you are seeing on your sonar. For example if you note that the fish that you are seeing are holding three feet off the bottom the best of floating worms couldn’t get into the zone with an 18 inch leader.

 

 

Beads: Beads and whether to use them or not, and how many to use is also an area of debate. The general function of the bead is to protect the knot from the constant abrasive action of the weight. However, some do feel that the beads also create noise thereby attracting curious bass. We use no bead if we use bullet weights and one bead if we us an egg weight. My feeling on the beads is they are just another obtrusive attractant and I want the bass striking the bait, not the rig.

 

 

Putting the rig to work

 

 

Using the rig is easy, and I think its simplicity is what makes it difficult to use for many fishermen. To understand why it is so efficient let’s take a look at the eating and the defense mechanism found in the bass. On the eating side the bass will be in one of two modes. They will either be aggressively feeding which is a rare and highly valued time for you to be on the water, or they will be opportunistically feeding. The latter mode of opportunity is the one that you will find the bass in most often, and it is the one that the Carolina rig was designed to take extreme advantage of.

 

 

Most often you will find the bass hanging around biding his time and surveying his territory. If an object is placed in front of the bass that the bass considers as having a possibility of food value the bass will pick it up to test its desirability. If it considers it good it will swallow it, and if not it rejects it and quickly spits it out. Realize that the bass is an extremely lazy critter so in order for you to take advantage of this opportunistic mode you have to place your offering within inches of their mouth. You also have to present it in that location for a sufficient period of time for the bass to make the decision to pounce on it.

 

 

On the defensive side of this equation you must understand that the bass although a schooling fish is also territorial. Understand that a bass’s territory is the area that its body is occupying so if you wish to elicit a defense response from the bass your presentation has to be in that space. Also understand that a defensive response from the bass does not mean an actual pickup of the bait with its mouth. The bass may head butt it, take a swipe at it with its tail, or just try to push it out of the way.

 

 

continued in Part 2....