Raycaster

Couple light taps with a mallet and slid off like butter. Thx guys. Did notice excessive rubber gunk infront of the impeller house. Black caulking that looks factory and then clear stuff..hmmm.

Have to remove the lower end of my engine for seal replacements that a friend has volunteered for. Great except I have never removed the lower end before. Watched every video possible and looks like I can handle it. The only thing making be nervous is the mention of "possible" linkage that will be required to loosen off. I have looked in the area and can only find this possible nut that can be loosened off. I have included a picture if anyone can verify this or not. Any help appreciated.

Thank you for the replies guys. Yes trying to save a little but don't want to have to return 5X either.

I have a NOV 2006 115ELPT4S that I'm looking for part numbers. The impeller kit I think is 47-43026Q06 but I've seen other numbers... The lower end seal kit is 26-816575A3 but again I've seen other numbers. I know Amazon will allow returns but hoping to get it right the first time. Yup, lower end job for the winter...

My thought Bill was just to simplify things. One charger does it all, it could trickle charge the crank and house battery and at the same time recharge the 2 trolling batteries for the next day. Calculating charge time has a million points to consider but I think Ah/A charging = hours... My math may be off but getting a 12V Group 27 100Ah battery from 25% to 100% is basically 75Ah/1.1 = greater than 60 hours to charge. After a day of regular trolling they may not get down to 25% but just as an example...

Has anyone installed a dual switch like the Perko 8501dp? I have the 4 bank charger wired properly etc. but at 4.4A (1.1A) per bank it would take a LONG time to charge the trolling batteries. Topping up the crank and house battery is no problem as they are trickle charged while running and should stay above 80% anyways. I have a 20A charger the could switch between the trolling battery banks and the crank/house bank…. A switch would defeat the purpose of easy charging all batteries at once but I have a 20A 2 bank and buying a high Amp 4 bank scares my wallet. Probably best idea is just to sell the 2 chargers and open up the wallet and get a proper one.

I have not checked the levels but its been on my mind also. The few times I have taken the batteries out I always wondered if there is spillage as the Legends front compartment for batteries is very tight and requires the 2nd battery to be tilted in to fit… I may reuse the front left livewell as a battery compartment in the future.

100%. Installed VesselView, need a good location for a tablet, on it. Lots of fun, worth it.

Purchased another set 10' bu will have to extend 2 feet, no problem I have proper gauge, heat shrink etc. will do a clean job but... I'm still wondering why a boat with a 4 bank charger wouldn't bother with the house battery. I have a thought (could be wrong). What if 2 were run to the trolling motor batteries and 1 run to the crank BECAUSE with the switch at 2+1 basically the crank and house are in parallel so only 1 could do the job. Ideally a bank per battery is right, I get it, but maybe that's why they didn't add the house directly to a bank. Or..Maybe that bank on the charger is toast.. Its a NOCO G4 with 1.1A per bank so basically just a trickle charge... Will probably put my Noco Gen2 20A eventually on the boat but its only 2 bank. Boy this fun!

Those ACRs do look interesting... Probably overkill but....

Its a Helix 7 but the low voltage was because … well… it just wasn't getting trickle charged while running as my “2+1” was just set on 1 (cranking battery”, nothing going to the house battery. I assumed the engine was charging both. I’ll get there!

Thanks for the input guys. I have been "topping up" the house battery before every trip because the sonar beeped once or twice that voltage was low. Went and checked today trying to sort out everything and noticed the "2+1" switch was on "1", the cranking battery. For some reason I thought it was on "BOTH" allowing the engine to trickle charge both the cranking battery and house... OK, that may be solved now, slowly getting a handle on my "new to me" boat. Next I will grab the 4th bank cable to be able to charge all 4 batteries on dock... Getting there...

Started a new thread concerning onboard charging. My "new to me" boat has a noco 4 bank charger that was connected to the 2 trolling batteries (dc group 27) and a cranking battery. Although I love the idea I was having problems with my trolling motor batteries so I took the charger out of the equation to find the fault. I replaced the trolling motor connector and the problem seems to have disappeared making the assumption the charger is fine. Is there any CON to re-hooking up the onboard charger? I'm always paranoid that since the trolling batteries are connected in series (24V Terrova) that this might confuse the charger even though the batteries are connected separately to the charger. Also, the boat also has a "House" battery that could also be connected to the charger but is not. Is there a reason it wouldn't be? Actually, the charger is missing the 4th cable that I have find (no luck yet) and purchase. I will add a wiring diagram later but it's nothing to crazy. It does include a (2+1) switch for the Cranking and House battery... Any thoughts welcome, thx.

OK, cut off the other connector and replaced with what I used on my last Minn Kota. I use a clunky welding connector but it worked flawless for years before and besides being non-waterproof they really work well when needed. The other detail was that I disconnected a onboard charger that was directly hooked to the batteries. The boat has a 4 bank noco charger hooked up to the 2 trolling batteries and 1 to the cranking battery. I may re-install the charger but I will make a separate thread for that. As Akrisoner mentioned the connector looked to be the culprit as the batteries now work like brand new! I trolled 8 hrs on Lake Ontario and started with 4 bars and ended with 3! It was just used for gps steering at speed 2, but I'm happy. Was kinda looking into new Lithium batteries but no need yet and my wallet is happier. Thank you for the help guys.

BillM, you may be right(probably) and my electrical math rusty but won't a 24V 100ah be equal to 2 @12v 100ah in series?