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Raycaster last won the day on July 28 2022
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Unfortunately, I had my new Lithium FishHawk probe die recently so I contacted FishHawk on Tuesday Aug 26th. What happened next? 1) Fishhawk replied to my email requesting an online warranty information page be filled out. (Aug 26) 2) I replied the next day due to having to retrieve the serial number from the boat. (Aug 27) 3) Received email that the replacement probe and charger had been sent via FEDEX (Aug 28). A return shipping label would be included for the faulty part. 4) Received package plus the new probe holder for the charger today at noon (Aug 29) All I can say is "WOW". I'm getting older and grumpier and its pretty easy to complain about anything on the internet but I think we have an equal obligation to promote companies that go 100%. Yup, sucked the probe died but they took care of it Right Away!, not the usual 4-6 weeks...
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Thank you. Its on my list.
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Thank you for the replies guys, could you suggest an appropriate model for a standard 18ft aluminum crank battery + DC house battery setup?
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I have a 2+1 switch now but wondering if a auto switch is worth it?
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I did check the reserve and air bled. Latest Update: July 1 Boat at Rosedale Marina in Fenelon Falls. Steps they have done: They noted shift connection was not correct. July 2 Suggested main battery and house battery replaced. I knew they were getting old so it was done. Today they reassemble and hope the shift assist sensor does not need to be replaced, as it would have to be ordered. If sensor is good I'm scheduled to get back today. ok, they put together and now confirm the sensor needs replacing. Had to cut vacation short due to family stuff and informed Rosedale Marine to let me know when completed. Hopefully they will come thru next week. It’s not ideal to leave the boat in Fenelon Falls but I want the repair complete not 1/2 sent to another repair shop for more finger pointing.
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UPDATE: At Balsam lake for a week and launched boat for the first time. Hull is bone dry from the livewell repair. 😎 Engine starts right away and I slowly leave to dock. Open water and I speed up....ENGINE ALERT right away. Vesselview reports neutral speed alert and boat is in Guardian mode. I know on the repair sheet they said the Shifter sensor is "sticky" but I never knew this is the result! Maybe I never read the repair sheet thoroughly and just read what I wanted, not sure. I guess I limp for a week on Balsam and then get the sensor replaced. 8(
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Heading up to Balsam to rent a cottage in a few weeks and wondering if anyone knows if the Rogers 5G is decent up there? Rogers website says 100% but until I see it... Its a 50/50 work/fish trip and I need internet. I can go into town everyday but using my phone would sure make things easier. Thx ahead.
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I checked the trim oil level and it was good, topped up a bit. I then hopefully got all the air out but it still acts exactly like before I checked it. I power up or down and it takes 5 seconds to build the pressure (starts very slow) than it raises or lowers (sometimes not happily). Thank you for the reply.
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I’m the first guy to complain about crappy work so I wanted to go the other way and give 5/5 to Bay City Marine in Hamilton. They installed it quickly, filled the gear case and topped off the oil. They did note that since I didn’t drain the top end oil before removing the lower end I might of fudged the shifter switch. They commented that it may be “sticky”. I don’t believe I saw one video mentioning the top end oil must be drained. I did have a oil leak when tilting the engine though… I guess once the driveshaft is out and you tilt the oil has a way out? Well, will have to see how hard it is to shift when I finally launch sometime this summer! Lets see, whats next to repair on this “new to me” dream boat? Power Trim takes a few seconds to get up to speed….fun.
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Its been a bit but I believe everything worked great. I installed a ecobee unit in my house and never ran into the problem. The pro version I purchased included the extra wiring adapter if needed but don't think I needed it. I like the ecobee, being a tech nerd I appreciate the feed back from it and monthly checks on efficiency and how my heating/cooling bill is affected.
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Guys, like that old Seinfield episode "Anyone can take a reservation, but can you keep a reservation?". Apparently anyone can remove a lower end on a Mercury 115 but putting it back in is another story. Took lower end off to fix leak and ready to re-install. I have watched youtubes all day and just can't re-attach. I have the remote in neutral, I have the drive shaft in the splines, just need the shifter to engage.. Sooo close but hours in... and a kitchen reno going at the same time so you know priorities... I try to softly get needle-nose pliers in and set shifter to neutral but just can't engage. Its embarrassing, bought the used boat and replaced fuel gauges, fuel sensor, shifter seals, electrical, and now stuck 5 minutes from end of job... May need to just bring to mechanic but hoping someone on the Hamilton Mountain that knows what their doing could help. (Would make it worth their time). I am available 24/7 and located 1km from Westcliff mall.
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Knew my lower end had a seal problem last fall so I removed the lower end and put on a bench over winter to do. Well… very late but time to do. Purchased prop seals and impeller kit in spring assuming it was torn up prop seals from fishing line and got the impeller kit because it was due too. Well, did a quick pressure check and prop seals seem fine but bubbles around around the shifter. Trying to locate exact part numbers (a service manual for fathers day would be nice), and watched a few videos on the procedure. Looks easier than the prop seals but wondering if anyone here has tackled it. Any tips appreciated.
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Newbie removal of Mercury 115 4 Stroke (2006) lower end
Raycaster replied to Raycaster's topic in General Discussion
Couple light taps with a mallet and slid off like butter. Thx guys. Did notice excessive rubber gunk infront of the impeller house. Black caulking that looks factory and then clear stuff..hmmm. -
Have to remove the lower end of my engine for seal replacements that a friend has volunteered for. Great except I have never removed the lower end before. Watched every video possible and looks like I can handle it. The only thing making be nervous is the mention of "possible" linkage that will be required to loosen off. I have looked in the area and can only find this possible nut that can be loosened off. I have included a picture if anyone can verify this or not. Any help appreciated.
