Garry2Rs

Happy New Year to OFC from sunny Arizona! Wow, I just heard that much of Ontario is going to get hit by a major "lake effect" snow storm. Please be careful out there. Since some of you will be shut-in, until the storm passes, let me tell you about the beautiful weather we are having here in Yuma...It's true that we had some cooler days, down to the low 60's (16C) before Christmas, but for the last week by noon it's at least 70F (23C) ... In The Shade. This is the desert, but we are close to the Colorado River. There are many miles of irrigation canals, as well as the river and it's backwaters, were there is year round bass fishing. There are also some water storage reservoirs and ponds with bass. Some of these are also stocked with rainbow trout during the winter, when water temps are low enough for them to survive. Winter bass fishing in and around the river is mostly jig-and-pig. The river water basically comes from melted snow in the mountains and it's still quite cold when it gets down here. The canal water leaves the river at the Imperial Dam a few miles above Yuma and runs in a meandering pattern through the many acres of lettuce, cabbage, peppers, cauliflower and broccoli etc. that are grown here in the winter. This water probably travels several hundred miles, before spilling back into the river only about thirty miles from where it left. The reservoirs and ponds are fed from these canals, but being much slower moving and quite shallow, it warms up and the fish are more active there. The stocked trout die-off as soon as the water warms up in the spring, but any that aren't caught fatten up the bass, so it's a win-win for snow-bird and local anglers...grin. I don't like still fishing for trout with paste type baits or live worms, so I have been throwing small spinners. To handle these 1/8 oz baits I wanted a 6.5 to 7 ft ultra light rod. Surprisingly, it seems these are hard to find. G.Loomis and St,Croix has some nice ones, but as you would suspect, the prices are quite high. Cheaper UL rods are out there but most are short and tend to be as soft as noodles. This might be fine for lobbing live bait, but weren't what I was looking for. To cut-to-the-chase, I have been working on some custom made ultra light spinning rods. These rods will see double duty, both for trout down here and for crappie back home. I'm not normally a spinning rod guy. But one should always use the right tool for the job. Back in my youth I used to be quite fond of spinning with Mepps and Panther Marten spinners, for all species. Truthfully it was line twist and break-offs, when fishing from shore that drove me away from these baits back-in-the-day. However they caught fish then and they still do it now! In fact, so far this season I have caught nearly as many bass, as trout, with these little baits. Last year, to fish these lures, I made a seven foot ultra light rod from a kit. I wound up selling that rod, with the intention of making a six and a half foot version with up-graded guides and handle this year. Back in November I built that rod, and it's quite nice, but for throwing small spinners from shore I felt I wanted more "snap" to really get them out there. My latest rod is built on a six foot spin-jig blank with an extra fast tip. This unit seems to cast my small spinners very well. I added a few inches, from a broken rod, to the butt end of the blank because I wanted a finished rod of around 6-9 or 10. The added length gives me some extra distance but by staying under 7 feet it will also fit in my rod locker better than a longer model. I'm in love with the Fuji IPSM reel seat that is designed so that the cork handle wraps up over the reel-foot to keep your hand off the locking threads. It's a little fiddly to assemble, compared to standard grips but it's very comfortable to hold onto. I have large hands and with age they have stiffened up a bit. It seems that many commercial rods today have quite small diameter handles. These twiggy handles wear me out! The guides I chose are Fuji Alconite in "K" series. The frames on these guides are flared, and the ring is set at an angle. This is supposed to allow any loops to slide over-and-off instead of forming knots under the guide-ring. As an experiment I only used two reduction guides then five tiny 5.5 size running guides. It's not quite a mini-guide spinning rod, but it's getting close...grin. That's A Dime! Sadly, my drink got warm while I typed this so I have to go ice fishing in my freezer now...Anyway, that's about all the news I have that's fit to print...grin. Garry2R's

YES ! On mine there are two bolts/shear pins that go through the power shaft and lock it to the auger blade. If one falls out/ gets sheared off etc. that side won't turn. Find the holes and replace the pin ...On mine I have use a 1/4 x 20 machine screw in a pinch. Garry2rs

If you can find a "kit" that might be your best bet. On the off chance you decide to buy components, this is a rare case where you can go cheap on the reel...It only holds the line. The rod can be cheap too...As a beginner you want a slow rod, with an action more like an old fiberglass rod than the new Graphite models...No need to spend much. On the otherhand, the line is every thing! Buy a good weight forward or double taper line in a weight to match the rod. For a beginner 5 is light, 6 and 7 are med. and 8 is heavy. Buy some tapered leaders. The shop should help you select the right weight according to the flies or poppers you intend to use. I would start with some large wet/streamer flies like the Dace Minnow, Wooly Bugger and Muddler Minnow. These are good patterns that will work anywhere. After that, just get out and learn to cast...grin. Good luck Garry2R's

Fishing related... Fishermen never really grow up...But, the good one's learn how to act in public. I told the guy at the tackle shop I wanted a spinning rod for my wife...He said "We don't do trades!" I asked my girlfriend if she had given the minnows fresh water...She said "No!" "They haven't finished what you gave them yesterday" What do you call a Musky with a gun? ... Sir What do you call a deaf fisherman? ... Anything you like, he won't hear you! What do you call a fish with no eye?...FSH!!!! I don't believe in Catch and Release...I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian! A Newbie asked, "How much does it cost to get a really good fishing outfit?" I replied, "I don't know yet, I'm still buying tackle." Work Related... I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted paychecks. A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. On my desk, I have a work station... Life related... If God is watching us, the least we can do is be entertaining. God must love stupid people. He made SO many. The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas! Garry2R's

Rapala did a press release to introduce some new rods yesterday. Five spinning and three casting models. http://www.rapala.ca/news/press/images/branding.jpg Some people saw these at I-Cast back in July, and Tackle Talk has tested one already. These definitely aren't cheap! The rods are supposed to sell around $250.00, which is reasonable given that they have all of the latest high-end components... New Fuji SK2 reel seats, Fuji Titanium Frame, K-Series Tangle-Free Concept Guides with SiC guide ring inserts etc. These are Rapala Canada items and I don't think they are available in the USA.

Good stuff!

At this time I think St.Croix SCV rod blanks using NSI, IPC and ART technologies are the state of the art...However that nice average 6'6" spinning rod blank we spoke of would cost you about $150.00 all-by-itself. Loomis no longer sells blanks to the public, and since Gary Loomis sold the company it's hard to know where they stand with research and development.

If you drop down a rod range, (or God help Sinclair, two!!!) Aren't you paying the same production cost for all of the rods? If so, the difference in cost has to be largely in the quality of components. Look at it this way...If it costs $50.00 to build a rod and get it to market, an $80.00 rod has $30.00 left for parts while the $150.00 rod has $100.00. I realize that this isn't a perfect analogy, but follow my line of reasoning... An accountant might point out that, compared to the $80.00 cheapo, the $150.00 model is less than twice as expensive but uses more than three times higher quality components. Garry2rs

A recurring question on most fishing boards is "What should I spend on my next fishing rod?" To find an reasonable answer, let's brake it down to the raw materials. If we look at a good quality Bass weight spinning rod blank from a non-luxury supplier like Rainforest we will find that the bare blank will run about $50.00 to $60.00 dollars. High end "Carriage Trade" brands like Lamiglas, G.Loomis, St.Croix etc. will be much more, however the price quoted will give us something around an honest IM7 blank. I say honest because there is something akin to the "60's" horse-power race going on with advertised rating on rods at retail. There is no standardization, so the rod ratings you see on rods is basically pure fiction. Beyond the hype, an actual IM8 or higher blank would run about twice or three times as much as an IM7, but in the real world any gains are in fractions of an ounce and would probable be fairly small in any practical sense. The parts for an average spinning rod handle run around $25.00. There is in-fact a worldwide shortage of premium cork. Most of us have noticed that within a few months our cork rod handles develop pits and fissures as the filler that was used to smooth them out simply falls out. Split-grip handles, rubberized cork trim and the switch to foam on rods over $100.00 is proof that quality cork is becoming rare. I believe that the biggest difference between mid-priced rods ($80 to $150) is in the guides. Using Fuji as a well known and respected example, for set of guides for an average 6ft 6in. spinning rod they offer three levels of high quality guide rings, Hardloy ($12.00), Alconite ($20.00), and SiC (Silicon Carbide)rings($48.00). On all popular priced rods the frames of these guides will be stainless steel. Now let's take a mid-range total...Blank $55.00 + Handle $20.00 + Hardware $25.00 and we get $100.00. There are things like Labour, and epoxy, finish and thread etc. but what we have is $100.00 in actual parts. Alright, I know that the factory doesn't pay these prices! However they have to factor in Labour, Overhead, Maintenance, Shipping, Warranty Claims and Profit, so I suggest these numbers are still pretty close. My conclusion is this...A good quality spinning rod is going to cost you $135.00 to $150.00 and it will look a lot like last years Shimano Crucial. If you decide that this is too much, I'm afraid you might be wasting your money. The basic production costs remain the same, whether you use good parts or trash...What is left for parts on a $50.00 rod if that "Overhead" runs $35.00 or $40.00??? Save your money until you can buy a rod that has the good stuff! Garry2R's

Here's a link that talks about spiral wraps and the theory behind them. Spiral or Acid Wrap My first thought is a lot of this torque that is talked about isn't that big a deal on a bass size outfit. When casting, my reel matches the rod, so it's not top heavy, and I'm palming it. Perhaps on the retrieve a little torque to the right just puts the crank a little firmer in my fingers??? In a rod holder, trolling could be a different story, especially with a big line-counter or saltwater size reel. A lot of smart people seem to think this is a hot set-up. Next month I just might build one to see what it's like to cast with. On the other hand, I won't put the hard finish on the spiral wraps until I'm 100% sold on the idea! If I don't like it, all I've lost is a few yards of thread...GRIN. Garry2R's

To the best of my knowledge most drop shot rods are spinning rods. Spiral wraps are for Casting rods. The theory has to do with the line flowing off the bait cast reel during the cast. You can drop shot lots of ways, but if you are fishing close to the boat, which is the classic drop shot technique, a casting rod and a spiral wrap isn't what you're looking for. Garry2R's

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For musky I use 80 pound braid and sometimes use a 100 to 135 pound fluorocarbon leader, but not always. With bucktails or spinnerbaits I don't think I need a leader, but with jerk and glide baits it can't hurt. The leader is more for bite-off protection in my mind. I don't fish for walleye. For crappie and bass I use 10 to 15 pound braid with and without a leader for Senko's on a spinning rods. I don't think the fish care, but if the bite is tough I might try a light fluoro leader. For all other bass lures I use casting rods. With cranks and spinnerbaits I use straight 20 pound fluoro for deeper baits but mono or 30 pound braid for anything that is staying in the top few feet of water. If the bait is moving I don't think you need a leader. I fish for pike in the Spring with my heavy bass gear and use the braid and mono mentioned above...I use mostly Husky Jerks and never use straight fluoro or fluoro leaders with them because I feel it sinks on the pause and kill the baits action. For T-rigged worms and Carolina rigs etc. I use 30 pound braid or 20 pound mono with about a 5 to 10 ft, 12 pound mono leader because I want to keep the bait off the bottom. For top waters, solid toads and hollow frogs I use 20 pound mono because the braid is too limp. This heavy mono's stiffness helps to keep the bait from running over the slack line. Garry2R's

I am not a Berkley, or Pure Fishing fan, but I bought Nanofil and I like it. It does cast like a rocket! It is very slick and you do need to tie double knots most of the time. After using it with a small Mepps the line seemed to show a twist, but this hasn't caused any problems. When I first spooled up it seemed to have a natural curl that I suppose came from the factory spool. This relaxed with use and wasn't a problem. No disrespect intended, but I suspect that some folks who had problems with memory, curl, twist etc. might have put the line on backwards. Garry2R's

A few years ago I won a Fenwick rod in a tournament. The following season I broke it doing something careless while unhooking a snag. I phoned Pure fishing in Canada...I think they were in Winterpeg, but this is the only address I am finding now... 7 Science Court Columbia, SC 29203 Toll Free: 1-800-334-9105 Locally: 803-754-7000 They asked me to mail them the rod, but after some discussion, it was determined that all they really needed was the section above the handle with the logo and rod-info on it. I cut that off with a hacksaw, mailed it, and received my new rod in about 10 days. Good Luck Garry2R's

Just a couple of thoughts... The original Fireline was fused not a braided. The fibres were laid out lengthwise then fused by together using some type of chemical or heat process. The line always got fuzzy looking as soon as the finish started to wear off...This didn't seem to hurt the strength too much. Possibly because the line strength was underrated by close to 50%. Perhaps Berkely underrated it because it got fuzzy so fast!?!? Powerpro colours their line with coloured wax. Other companies use paint or fabric dyes applied directly to the line. Regardless of what is used, the colour will not stick to the Dyneema or Spectra fibres for very long. Get used to it! If you put it in the water it will fade. Faded line is not a sign of weakness. All this talk about how long the line holds it colour is mental masturbation. Get yourself a Magic Marker and colour the last two feet of your faded line if you believe it is important. Years ago line guides were made of metal and after a few seasons most tip guides became grooved by the mono lines we used back then. Things got much better with the introduction of ceramic guide inserts...However, even today there is a huge difference in line guide quality. For instance, a Fugi SIC guide set for an average 6 to 7 foot rod costs about $55.00 while the same companies Hardloy guides would only cost about $10.00. These are still pretty good guides, but there are many cheaper no-name guides out there. Since they all look roughly the same, guides are one place where a company can lower their cost without it showing very much. So my friends, if you are buying from the low end of any companies line of rods, you can guess what quality you are getting! More important to this discussion is the fact that even the best guides can easily be damaged by winding the hook, swivel or lure-eye into the tip guide, or by using the guides as a hook keeper. I see this all the time and it is a major no-no! Please think of these inserts as glass...they will chip or crack easily if mistreated. Garry2R's

Here are a couple of items you might have missed... Sufix 832 is now available in white as well as neon lime and green. This might not be something that causes a stampede at the tackle store, but it is an update. Powerpro has released a new 8 strand version called Super-Slick. This line will be available in tan, yellow and green. For those who are not aware, Powerpro is now owned by Shimano, and although it is still very popular with OFNer's, the origanal line, that probably once led the field, has fallen behind from a technical point of view. The original PowerPro is/was a four strand braid that created an oval shaped line. Ever since the new 8 strand Fireline and it's siblings like Spiderwire Stealth hit the market three or four years ago, these rounder braids have been seen as "state of the art." There are other small fishing line companies out there with 16 or more strands in some braids. However it's doubtful most people will ever see these at their favourite tackle shop. Suffix, is the other big player, it's now owned by Rapala and is probable making all of the other common braided lines. If so, they saved the Ace for themselves...Their 832 is tighter, slicker and smaller in diameter then any of the other lines. On another front, many of you are aware that Fluorocarbon line was first introduced by Seaguar. Many people feel their line is still the best...It certainly costs enough! Recently this company has branched out with a new Mono and a new Braid...What can we say about any Mono...cheap...clear...twists like crazy...stretchy as a bungee-cord...Sorry I got carried away...I have not seen any spec's on the new braid, but I suspect it will be another 8 strand Suffix clone. Anyway that's 40 for now. Garry2R's

Wooden baits are generally hand made...No two pieces of wood are exactly the same, therefore, wooden baits have to be hand tuned...You have to pay for the time and skill that is required. There is also something quite special about using hand crafted items, the human touch? A link to our pioneer past? I don't know... If you feel that hand tied fly's, and custom fishing rod are worth the extra cost, you already understand...If you don't, well, no explanation is really possible!

IMHO the best fishing show ever is/was the Bass Pro's series from BPS. These videos are all information and available through BPS.

When the lake turns over it will get cloudy. The cooler silt and dead leaf laden water, from the bottom, will be mixed into the warmer surface water.

I think you will find a switch on the front edge under the level wind. Push it to the side and twist the non-crank side plate down. You might have to tap it with a soft mallet to get it to turn the first time, as it fits very tightly. The brake works by moving a cluster of pins in and out of the brake drum. The higher the number selected the more pins contact the brake drum. Therefore, if it's not working I suspect that you have grease on the brake drum. You can clean it off with camp-stove gas or lighter fluid. Garry2rs

I certainly envy you! If I had the cash I would stock up on the old model myself. There should be a new reel next July to fill the hole left in Shimano's line-up. However until then you have what is in my opinion, one of the best reels made.

Live Target has three finishes...Metallic, Natural and Florescent.

If you are an experienced fisher-person you can find fish. They are in the water, shallow or deep. They hold on or near humps, ridges, islands, points, weed-beds, channels or old river beds and live in aquariums... People who obsess about locations are only showing their weakness. This goes along with the secret lure and other myths. Fish are either in ambush spots, in holding spots, on feeding flats, or following the forage. Obviously small bodies of water can't stand a lot of pressure from catch-and-keep fishers, but thankfully they are poisoning themselves with pollution laced fish and will soon die-out...wink Personally I would rather hear about depth and the cover...After that I can find my own spots...It's not rocket science! On the other hand, I asked the little girl next door, whom I have fished with for the last 5 years, where she caught the fish that she was bragging about...She said "In the mouth!" HAHAHA.

I buy those Crappie jigs and grubs from Trout Magnet. Click this link I have been using them for about four years and think they are great! Much better than mini-tubes etc. in my opinion. The cut face of the jig causes it to spiral down as it falls. Deadly on all panfish and it always catches a few incidental Bass...wink.