DRIFTER_016

I noticed that on my oil cap Bernie. I always let the truck warm up 10-15 minutes before taking off. Im a ten minute drive from work. I also do an oil change every 5K.

 

Thanks for the thread.

Yup, me too. I only use full synthetic oil and premium filters as well. Plus when it's colder than -20 I plug in the block heater and battery warmer.

Bernie, what you have ther is a vehicle that has had no regular maintenance.

If they ever checked their oil they would know there was an issue.

Why? Crude is down under $35 a barrel. If anything it should still be dropping.

After forty years fishing in the Kawarthas I have been checked once. Every single time I go ice fishing on Lake Simcoe I have been checked, every single time!

One of the 3 times I was checked by a CO was there. The other times were Bronte on opening day and the Credit in the fall.

I have been checked way more by the Peel Marine Unit while fishing out of Port Credit though.

Why make them with a zipper?

So you can store things other than your hands in there and not have it fall out.

You don't have to go 5 hours. I used to camp on Beausoleil Island out of Honey Harbour every May 24 weekend.

Big pike caught on dead bait on quick strike rigs under a float, dinner plate sized crappies on jig and minnow under a float.

Prespawn bass are in the area also but did not target them as they are not in season at that time. We also caught the odd musky when targetting pike. We also caught pike on body baits, spinner baits and jigs. Lots of sunnies and rock bass in the area too. The campground is very good with good washrooms. The area is quite protected and my first boat was a 12 foot tinny with a 5.5 johnson and it made the trip many times. A bonus is Honey Harbour is only a couple of hours north of TO. Here's a map and a couple of places to start.

Park and launch in Honey Harbour (you will see the town dock and launch ramp) Then follow thw map. You may want to reserve a spot or two if you're hitting it on a long weekend.

http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/on/georg/index_e.asp

I thank the Lord Baby Jesus for NASCAR and my 21.2 million dollars in winning's!!!!

So there you go. If you live in Temagami buy one, the rest of the province..............NAH!!!

6 times this year on Temagami, once on Nippising and usually twice a year in the fall on GBay.

40 years in Southern Ontario 3 times.

Why bother to get one at all? It's not like you are ever going to be checked!!!

I have seen more CO's in the NWT in 3 years than I ever did in 40 years living in Ontario.

Glad it worked out there Gerritt. As Drifter has mentioned get a proper shear bolt.

Might be a good idea to pick up a couple extra ones. Especially if you have a gravel driveway.

 

Have a real close look around the circumference of the auger. There must be a bit of debris jamming it up somewhere. Sometimes the end of the auger can get bent up against the shroud.

Yep. could be a piece of gravel, bent blade etc. Look it over carefully.

If the shear pin is gone and you can see right through the hole there and the auger won't spin by hand there is definately something jamming it. Find it, remove it and replace the bolt.

Check along the leading edge of the scoop for bends or a piece of gravel trapped between it and the auger.

Bernie.... you are a genius! I looked again... and noticed that the nut was rusted to the auger.... the bolt was gone!! All I was seeing was a bolt head... anyways I knocked it off with a cold chisel and hammer.. and turned the secondary auger as you mentioned... low and behold I can see the shaft turning inside the seized auger!.... The auger is still not moving though... so I assume it is the bearing on the outside of the chute not allowing it to turn?

 

G

Replace the shear bolt and all will be golden.

Make sure to purchase a proper shear bolt.

Do not ues a regular bolt or you will blow up the differential if the auger jams.

It is still possible Wayne that the auger is jammed and the shaft is turning. Seen that before too. Just wanted to verify it.

Had that happen on mine once. There was a piece of gravel seizing the auger.

The bolts are special bolts made to shear if the auger jams. DO NOT PUT REGULAR BOLTS IN!!!!!!

IF he auger is seized on the shaft the most likely problem is a busted gearcase. This would not be good.

Did you say the the side that is not turning can be moved slightly? I would remove the shear bolt on that side. It could be sheared but sort of rusted in place. Replace with a proper replacement shear bolt and try it out.

Hopefully it is just a shear bolt issue. If this fixes the problem, buy a spare incase it happens again.

I always kept a spare drive belt, clutch rubber and a pair of spare shear bolts. I would also do full maintenance in may when things warmed up. This way come next winter you're completely ready to go.

Don't forget to put some Stabil fuel stabilizer in the tank and fill it up at the end of the season. Run it for 10 minutes after adding the Stabil to get it into the carb.

I have one I run on a 5# tank. A lot easier to carry around when they are that size.

Lets see a pic of the augers please.

Give 'em a cleaning first. no need to polish and wax 'em just knock off any ice and snow.

Time to get the Easter Bunny motif going on there Admin Dudes!!!!

I love it when southerners say its really cold.

Our average temps for the last 8 WEEKS have been -30

The warmest it has been is -27 and the coldest was -46 with wind chills to -56.

Couple that with 5 hours of daylight then you can complain.

This weekend is supposed to be completely different with highs near 0.

And yes bring your pets in out of the cold. Mines asleep on his couch right now.

Flasher first, then a camera.

You can't go wrong with any of the offerings out there (Lowrance, Humming bird, Vexilar or Marcum)

Figure out what features you need/want and use that to weed through the various models. Once you have that figured out pick which ever unit tickles your fancy because IMO each one is as good as the other.

Don't even want to know what you paid for that!

I believe he paid 6 Billion Dollars for it.

I have the Cabelas Avanced Angler camera system and it works fine. It has infrared lighting and the monitor comes in 5.5" and 7" sizes.

I have the 5.5" model and it has video out connections for recording. You do really need a tripod to help in aiming them though. Aquaview has an inexpensive tripod for about $15 as well as a motorized option for about $90. These will work with any camera not just Aquaview. If you have too much money the Marcum VS 825C is uber sweet!!!!

Nice Mike.

Just remember the warning I gave you about accidently kneeling on the rim as they are not that strong. Don't ask me how I know.

How do I know if the spacer is too long or the screw is too tight?

Back off the centerpin screw 1/4 turn and if the reel spins better you know there is side pressure on the bearings causing a loss of performance.

Not all reels use a spacer, most have shoulders milled into the spools hub. These reels need to use the line trick with the CP screw trick. I place a piece of line into the female threaded part of the CP with the tag end sticking out and reinstall the screw stopping a little short of tight. I test this by checking the spools side play. Hole the back plate and with your other hand push and pull gently on the spool, you should feel the slightest amount of play. That's what I find as being perfect. If the reel has a spacer between the bearings you can lightly sand one end of the spacer to achive the same thing, only you will be able to fully tighten the CP screw.

Ask Solo what I said every time I stuck another silver in Alaska while fly fishing.

I think it went UGGGHHH, there he is!!!

It's all in the grunt!!!

Another one is FEEEEEEEEESH AWWWWWNNN, COMIN' DOWN!!!!!

Most of the issues people have with reels limping along in frog water have to do with reels that need adjustment or tweaking.

I spend a lot of time tweaking my reels when I get them just for that purpose. The main culprit is too much side pressure on the bearings. i.e. either the centerpin retaining screw is too tight or if the reel has a spacer between the two bearings it is too long. I bought a Rave Vectra as a backup to my backup to my back up and when it arrived I could tell right away that this was the problem (spacer too long) using some 200 grit sandpaper and patience I removed between .0001 and .0002 of an inch from the end and it is a completely different reel.

Great stuff Mike ! Enjoy it the way it is for awhile... drag it .. pull it and throw it in the water. If you paint it you'll be worried that you will scratch it until you get a better means of moving it.

 

Alum is not something you wanna hit with Tremclad. It needs to be properly chemically stripped.. possibly etched depending on the primer.... epoxy primed and then painted if you expect it to stick. Not cheap and not something you'll probably wanna tackle for a bit.

I used Tremclad aerosol paint to camo up my aluminum canoe 10 years ago and it hasn't fallen off yet.

SEAFOAM!! for the gas.. and Change the belt...

 

RFS

+1 for the Seafoam treatment.