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DRIFTER_016

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Posts posted by DRIFTER_016

  1. Dave I had the same TV in the 70's!!!!!!!!!!!!! My small tube is 60 "s. Poor eye sight is what I tell my Lady. Type 2 = poor eyesight. However, nice unit, you have some skills my dear Man. Make the opening 80" and it will fit my next Boob Tube. My current one is only 70. Poor eyesight remember? You can build me my next unit, no Pine and Shakers though.

     

    :tease::tease::tease::tease::tease:

  2. Very similar to NWT Dave's. Not everyone has the carpentry skills he is blessed with.

     

    Meh, it's just a little something I cobbled together to hold my lures.

    If you want to see something that took me a little longer and was a tad more difficult look at these pics. :whistling:

     

    E_Centre_1.jpg

     

    E_Centre_2-1.jpg

  3. In order to get a full charge you are going to need a pretty sizable panel or a pair of panels plus a charge controller.

    For instance a this 80 watt system only puts out a maximum of 4.6 amps in full sun.

    You really want at least twice and even better 3 times that output in order to get a good charge.

    The charge controller is like the battery charger you plug in at home. It regulates the amount of charge going to the battery so as not to over or under charge it.

     

    You would be better off with a 1000 watt generator and charger. ;)

  4. I meant one of these

     

    024721092786_04427503.jpg

     

    I fear a spade bit will butcher it.

     

    Those would be auger bits. ;)

    If you are going to try pre-drill a pilot hole the size of the widest point on the screw tip so it doesn't draw the flutes into the metal.

    You want to go slow and with light pressure.

    Spade bits actually work pretty good in aluminium as the points on the tips of the wings cut through without chewing up the metal.

    But as I said with either type of bit the key is light pressure and low RPM.

  5. If you mean a spade bit like in the pic below.

    It will work as long as it's one of the ones with the points on the end.

    It will wear out quickly and you need to go slowly, but it will work in a pinch.

    I use either a hole saw or UNI bit when I need to run stuff in my boat. ;)

     

    short-length-spade-bits-393.jpg

  6. I also fried a brand new Deca by leaving it on trickle charge mode over the winter as recommended here by some. I take the things in for the winter now, set them on plywood and then trickle charge them until 100% full or 14V a day or so before installing them now. Going on 4 years, let's see.

     

    Yep, me too.

    Got 5 batteries sitting on the floor in my tiny shop.

    1 for my camper, 1 for a buddies boat and 3 for my boat.

    Just finishing cleaning up after the tool box debacle of last week, then they go on the smart charger before I put them in the boat for the summer.

  7. You don't want any battery hooked up to a charger "at all times". You're just going to boil those buggers into submission at an early age. Season 9 coming up for my 4, all load test just fine @ 1000 CCA and needless to say they got neglected somewhat the past 5 years as well !

     

    Yup, toasted a couple of batteries because the charger didn't shut off.

    The battery in my snowmobile is 9 years old now. It has a Battery Tender charger installed on it as well as a battery blanket and block heater.

    I plug in the night before I want to use it and it starts up like it's 70 degrees outside every time.

    I haven't even seen the battery in this sled as it's buried under a bunch of stuff. Probably see it tomorrow when I start taking it apart to get the rad out. :rolleyes:

  8. It depends!!!

    If you are getting work done by someone other than the dealer (this includes oil changes) make sure you have receipts and documentation. A friend here in YK had Subaru's for he and his wife. There is no dealer here in town so they had other shops do the work. Well both vehicles had expensive repairs needed under warranty and Subaru denied them since they didn't service the vehicle.

     

    I have my Honda Pilot and it is now out of warranty but I needed to replace a cracked rad under warranty. I called them up, told them about the issue, sent them pics of the area where it was leaking. They sent me a replacement and said I can get it fixed by the shop of my choice. I told them I was my shop of choice and was it OK to do the repairs myself. They said no problem.

     

    Moral of the story, contact the manufacturer and ask some questions.

    Take down the info of the person you talked to and the date of the conversation.

    Better yet confirm with an email and then print it out and put it in your vehicle file. ;)

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