Raycaster

Fuel gauge is reading past FULL on 1/4 tank or less on a used legend XCalibur. Google said "open circuit, probably replace fuel sender". Fuel sender is the rod version with the float position giving full 30 Ohms or 240 Ohms empty. I tested old fuel sender and it read 30 at the top and basically a inch from the bottom read 200 Ohms then nothing for the last 1/2 inch. Bought a replacement and it reads EXACTLY the same, hmm. Guess that is normal? Maybe my ohmmeter just went out of range at the end... The way I thought it should be is 30 Ohms at the top and 240 Ohms at the bottom. The boat is in storage so I just yanked the old one out to compare with the new one. So I'm down to 1) Gauge problem 2) wiring problem 3) a dud replacement. Its not rocket science and will figure it quickly when I get the boat in the driveway but if anyone has some quick pointers before that I'd appreciate it.

Hmmm…thank you for the reply I kinda thought that way. Flood the boat and empty and run quick tig beads. But Im a casual oldtimer stick welder so don’t really know. I do know welding thin aluminum is not easy, someone said a pulse tig is needed?

My boat has 2 one inch “cuts” in the bottom hull. The cuts are so thin it looks like an exacto knife cut. Anyways, I epoxied them and never had a leak. Now the Im selling I thought Id get them repaired. Took it to a aluminum welder and he said it wasnt possible because of the insulation inside and it would need removing. The job would be 2x what the boat is worth. Any thought? Any super welders in the area that could weld 2 two inch beads without the boat blowing up? Just may end up selling as-is but thought it would be an easier sale fixed…

Dave, unfortunately the Minn Kota Terrova 80 would be running close to 100% to run 2.4 - 3 on my 18ft deep v with a downrigger setup and 4 lines.

A drift bag on left and right sounds good to me.

I'm 100% with you Fisherman. The "tip" was from a Canadian fishing show, pretty sure it was a well known guy. As soon as I heard it I thought "Ya, that would work", but then the logic felt screwy. I have a Mercury 25hp that needs a trolling plate to get down to 2-2.8 no matter the trim.

Was watching a youtube fishing show and a tip was given to slow down bigger engines to 2mph was to run the bow mount trolling motor backwards? I guess this would work especially with a rudder extension... So just point the tm 180 degrees from your target destination? Left and Right adjustments from gps would be wrong though making it useless to steer? Just doesn't sound right although a rudder extension sounds ok. I see youtube guys strapping plastic cutting boards on the tm shafts... hmmm.

Thank you BillM, yes I have that pdf but was looking for the "service" manual. (parts etc.)

I was actually looking at the Mercury Vessel View module... interesting.

Just looking for a service manual for a 2006 Mercury 115ELPT 4 Stroke. Don't mind the cost just want to get the right one. I've ran across "Oh 2006 was not Mercury it was ..." etc. Probably needs lower gear seals etc. in the spring among other things and thought grabbing a service manual would be a good idea. Found the basic manual for the boat/engine on the Brunswick site but probably have to buy the service manual. Online there are several options ebay/Etsy/ etc. but wondering if anyone here had success purchasing a older manual and could point me to a reliable site. Thx ahead. BTW, Happy Holiday's everyone and many thanks to all in the forums that have helped me along the way (there are many!)

I have a boat travel cover that needs some sewing and wondering about costs in the Hamilton area. Not any real rips just a long section has seams missing that need re-sewing. Anyone have recent work done? Is this going to get crazy expensive for an old canvas cover? (I know a new one won't be cheap either...)

That's great to know about the wrap, thank you. Got any pics of the wrap to share?

steellee, looks good. HtHm may be on to something though...

Just wondering if anyone has had their small aluminum crafts painted. I'm probably going to end up with a 18' Legend that has tons of "dock rash" I know wraps are a option but have seen a lot of bad reviews and only last a few seasons. Not going for a cool design or anything, just plain color with logo decals replaced. Something tells me this will cost higher than the value of the boat...

OK, thank you to everyone for the help. Went to storage and got all the necessary images etc. and information to apply for a pleasure craft license. I ran by the local DOT to confirm I was all set and they were helpful and said to their knowledge all I needed was a valid bill of sale with all the required information needed. They gave me a Canadian Boating Information number 1-877-242-8770 that I could verify this information. I called the number and was informed that I 100% am NOT required to fill out the online application for a pleasure boat license and a VALID Bill of Sale is all that is required to give the next owner. Taxes can be done at DOT on the previous sale BUT was told to hold on to the receipt as this documentation has a high chance of "falling in the cracks" or taking years to actually be verified by the CRA.

Terry I do have a bill of sale with the previous owner. It includes all the previous owners information, (name,address,phone # and signature. Hopefully I can scan that in and forward that with the appropriate pictures etc. I send it in with the form and see what happens.

No I never registered the boat...

I have searched through the basement and came up with a Declaration/Receipt (Specified Vehicle Transfer) from the last owner to me. This should do it right? I think this is just the trailer...

I will give this a try...

Well, being a computer geek I though I'd ask chatGPT: In Ontario, Canada, the process for obtaining official ownership papers for a used boat worth less than $5,000 involves registering the boat with the Ontario Ministry of Transportation (MTO). Here are the steps you should follow: 1. **Gather Necessary Information:** - Obtain the boat's details, including its make, model, year, length, Hull Identification Number (HIN), and engine information. - Ensure you have a bill of sale or transfer of ownership document from the current owner, including details of the sale (e.g., names of buyer and seller, boat description, price, and date of sale). 2. **Complete the Required Forms:** - Obtain the "Application for Pleasure Craft License" (Form 84-0172) from the MTO's website or a ServiceOntario location. - Fill out the form with all the required information, including the boat's particulars and the details of the sale. 3. **Pay the Registration Fee:** - As of my last knowledge update in September 2021, there is a registration fee associated with the boat registration process. Ensure you check the latest fee structure on the MTO's website. 4. **Submit Your Application:** - Submit the completed form and any supporting documents, including the bill of sale, to the MTO. You can typically mail your application to the following address: Ministry of Transportation Registrar of Motor Vehicles P.O. Box 3010 Kingston, ON K7L 5A3 Canada 5. **Wait for Processing:** After you submit your application, you'll need to wait for the MTO to process it. Processing times may vary, so be patient. 6. **Receive Ownership Papers:** Once your application is approved, the MTO will issue official ownership papers for the boat. These will usually come in the form of a Pleasure Craft License. It's essential to check the latest information and fee structure on the Ontario Ministry of Transportation's official website or contact their customer service for any updates or changes to the registration process. Keep in mind that the requirements and procedures may change over time, so it's important to verify the current requirements with the relevant authority.

I probably will be selling my 16ft Legend 2003 Xcite 25hp in the spring (should sell now) but looking into getting the proper ownership docs to make the sale easier. I obtained the boat through a trade and printed up proper sale docs that were dated and signed and I still have them. The gentleman I got the boat from is pretty legit with a local business and he produced the sale papers from when he purchased from the previous owner used (which I also have). Its had a few owners and its your typical well used boat. It has its info stamp with serial in the boat and its original identification letters on the hull. Anyways... I've been googling and looking through the government websites for info as the local DOT said basically "no idea". The boat will be under 7K and the next owner may not care but if I could just fill out some docs and send a cheque to get new official ownership the sale would probably go smoother. If anyone has gone through this and has a hint or 2 I would appreciate it. Thank you.

Kinda doing a personal "Love-it or List-it" with my 2003 Xcite 164 Legend. Was thinking a great winter project would be to rip it down and re-carpet it as its long past due.... I'm a handy guy and could "wing it" but was hoping someone saw a video or schematics of the boat so I could take it apart and rebuild properly. There is not much to it with only a driver side console but don't want to bugger up areas and re-rivet if not needed. On another subject, I am almost done sanding and repainting the trailer and hoping to replace some of the decals. I saw youtubes of guys just buying the decals off ebay but boat sets are like $180? and I'm just looking for trailer decals. If anyone has seen reasonable priced legend trailer stickers I'd appreciate the url. Thx guys.

Dan...you had to bring that up. damn I could lose 40!

FourStroke Models 9.9/15 & 25 465 Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) or 350 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 30/40, 45/50 Operation Above 32�F (0�C) 465 Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) or 350 Cold Cranking AMPS (CCA) Operation Below 32�F (0�C) 1000 Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) or 750 Cold Cranking AMPS (CCA) 75/90 Operation Above 32�F (0�C) 465 Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) or 350 Cold Cranking AMPS (CCA) Operation Below 32�F (0�C) 1000 Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) or 750 Cold Cranking AMPS (CCA) Ampere-Hours (Ah) 70 - 100 Basically the 24s seem even overkill as they are rated at 675 / 65 /120...

I took the boat out of storage and after leaving the battery in the boat found it completely dead. Its a group 27 2015 so it doesn't owe me anything. Topped it up with distilled water and charged it but it never got above 60%... I have 2 @ 27DC upfront for the trolling motor and thought that if I could loose a little weight dropping down to a 24 for the main battery it's probably a good plan. I realize it comes down to cranking and capacity specs but they are all over the place on the ones I have a looked at. I have spent a day googling and it seems like a logical score: 50% say save the money and weight as I only have 1 sonar and front and back lights and 50% say don't be cheap and just get the 27 and be done with it. I'm leaning on the 24 side as I less weight is always good and I have the 27 Deep Cycles as emergency if needed.. Again, the weight and cash difference isn't much... Sorry too cheap to go lithium..