Raycaster

Unfortunately, I had my new Lithium FishHawk probe die recently so I contacted FishHawk on Tuesday Aug 26th. What happened next? 1) Fishhawk replied to my email requesting an online warranty information page be filled out. (Aug 26) 2) I replied the next day due to having to retrieve the serial number from the boat. (Aug 27) 3) Received email that the replacement probe and charger had been sent via FEDEX (Aug 28). A return shipping label would be included for the faulty part. 4) Received package plus the new probe holder for the charger today at noon (Aug 29) All I can say is "WOW". I'm getting older and grumpier and its pretty easy to complain about anything on the internet but I think we have an equal obligation to promote companies that go 100%. Yup, sucked the probe died but they took care of it Right Away!, not the usual 4-6 weeks...

Thank you. Its on my list.

Thank you for the replies guys, could you suggest an appropriate model for a standard 18ft aluminum crank battery + DC house battery setup?

Update: Everything back to normal! Rosedale Marina finished up the boat and I got skunked 3hrs on Balsam, yup, back to normal.

I have a 2+1 switch now but wondering if a auto switch is worth it?

I did check the reserve and air bled. Latest Update: July 1 Boat at Rosedale Marina in Fenelon Falls. Steps they have done: They noted shift connection was not correct. July 2 Suggested main battery and house battery replaced. I knew they were getting old so it was done. Today they reassemble and hope the shift assist sensor does not need to be replaced, as it would have to be ordered. If sensor is good I'm scheduled to get back today. ok, they put together and now confirm the sensor needs replacing. Had to cut vacation short due to family stuff and informed Rosedale Marine to let me know when completed. Hopefully they will come thru next week. It’s not ideal to leave the boat in Fenelon Falls but I want the repair complete not 1/2 sent to another repair shop for more finger pointing.

UPDATE: At Balsam lake for a week and launched boat for the first time. Hull is bone dry from the livewell repair. 😎 Engine starts right away and I slowly leave to dock. Open water and I speed up....ENGINE ALERT right away. Vesselview reports neutral speed alert and boat is in Guardian mode. I know on the repair sheet they said the Shifter sensor is "sticky" but I never knew this is the result! Maybe I never read the repair sheet thoroughly and just read what I wanted, not sure. I guess I limp for a week on Balsam and then get the sensor replaced. 8(

Heading up to Balsam to rent a cottage in a few weeks and wondering if anyone knows if the Rogers 5G is decent up there? Rogers website says 100% but until I see it... Its a 50/50 work/fish trip and I need internet. I can go into town everyday but using my phone would sure make things easier. Thx ahead.

I checked the trim oil level and it was good, topped up a bit. I then hopefully got all the air out but it still acts exactly like before I checked it. I power up or down and it takes 5 seconds to build the pressure (starts very slow) than it raises or lowers (sometimes not happily). Thank you for the reply.

I’m the first guy to complain about crappy work so I wanted to go the other way and give 5/5 to Bay City Marine in Hamilton. They installed it quickly, filled the gear case and topped off the oil. They did note that since I didn’t drain the top end oil before removing the lower end I might of fudged the shifter switch. They commented that it may be “sticky”. I don’t believe I saw one video mentioning the top end oil must be drained. I did have a oil leak when tilting the engine though… I guess once the driveshaft is out and you tilt the oil has a way out? Well, will have to see how hard it is to shift when I finally launch sometime this summer! Lets see, whats next to repair on this “new to me” dream boat? Power Trim takes a few seconds to get up to speed….fun.

Its been a bit but I believe everything worked great. I installed a ecobee unit in my house and never ran into the problem. The pro version I purchased included the extra wiring adapter if needed but don't think I needed it. I like the ecobee, being a tech nerd I appreciate the feed back from it and monthly checks on efficiency and how my heating/cooling bill is affected.

Guys, like that old Seinfield episode "Anyone can take a reservation, but can you keep a reservation?". Apparently anyone can remove a lower end on a Mercury 115 but putting it back in is another story. Took lower end off to fix leak and ready to re-install. I have watched youtubes all day and just can't re-attach. I have the remote in neutral, I have the drive shaft in the splines, just need the shifter to engage.. Sooo close but hours in... and a kitchen reno going at the same time so you know priorities... I try to softly get needle-nose pliers in and set shifter to neutral but just can't engage. Its embarrassing, bought the used boat and replaced fuel gauges, fuel sensor, shifter seals, electrical, and now stuck 5 minutes from end of job... May need to just bring to mechanic but hoping someone on the Hamilton Mountain that knows what their doing could help. (Would make it worth their time). I am available 24/7 and located 1km from Westcliff mall.

Knew my lower end had a seal problem last fall so I removed the lower end and put on a bench over winter to do. Well… very late but time to do. Purchased prop seals and impeller kit in spring assuming it was torn up prop seals from fishing line and got the impeller kit because it was due too. Well, did a quick pressure check and prop seals seem fine but bubbles around around the shifter. Trying to locate exact part numbers (a service manual for fathers day would be nice), and watched a few videos on the procedure. Looks easier than the prop seals but wondering if anyone here has tackled it. Any tips appreciated.

Couple light taps with a mallet and slid off like butter. Thx guys. Did notice excessive rubber gunk infront of the impeller house. Black caulking that looks factory and then clear stuff..hmmm.

Have to remove the lower end of my engine for seal replacements that a friend has volunteered for. Great except I have never removed the lower end before. Watched every video possible and looks like I can handle it. The only thing making be nervous is the mention of "possible" linkage that will be required to loosen off. I have looked in the area and can only find this possible nut that can be loosened off. I have included a picture if anyone can verify this or not. Any help appreciated.

Thank you for the replies guys. Yes trying to save a little but don't want to have to return 5X either.

I have a NOV 2006 115ELPT4S that I'm looking for part numbers. The impeller kit I think is 47-43026Q06 but I've seen other numbers... The lower end seal kit is 26-816575A3 but again I've seen other numbers. I know Amazon will allow returns but hoping to get it right the first time. Yup, lower end job for the winter...

My thought Bill was just to simplify things. One charger does it all, it could trickle charge the crank and house battery and at the same time recharge the 2 trolling batteries for the next day. Calculating charge time has a million points to consider but I think Ah/A charging = hours... My math may be off but getting a 12V Group 27 100Ah battery from 25% to 100% is basically 75Ah/1.1 = greater than 60 hours to charge. After a day of regular trolling they may not get down to 25% but just as an example...

Has anyone installed a dual switch like the Perko 8501dp? I have the 4 bank charger wired properly etc. but at 4.4A (1.1A) per bank it would take a LONG time to charge the trolling batteries. Topping up the crank and house battery is no problem as they are trickle charged while running and should stay above 80% anyways. I have a 20A charger the could switch between the trolling battery banks and the crank/house bank…. A switch would defeat the purpose of easy charging all batteries at once but I have a 20A 2 bank and buying a high Amp 4 bank scares my wallet. Probably best idea is just to sell the 2 chargers and open up the wallet and get a proper one.

I have not checked the levels but its been on my mind also. The few times I have taken the batteries out I always wondered if there is spillage as the Legends front compartment for batteries is very tight and requires the 2nd battery to be tilted in to fit… I may reuse the front left livewell as a battery compartment in the future.

100%. Installed VesselView, need a good location for a tablet, on it. Lots of fun, worth it.

Purchased another set 10' bu will have to extend 2 feet, no problem I have proper gauge, heat shrink etc. will do a clean job but... I'm still wondering why a boat with a 4 bank charger wouldn't bother with the house battery. I have a thought (could be wrong). What if 2 were run to the trolling motor batteries and 1 run to the crank BECAUSE with the switch at 2+1 basically the crank and house are in parallel so only 1 could do the job. Ideally a bank per battery is right, I get it, but maybe that's why they didn't add the house directly to a bank. Or..Maybe that bank on the charger is toast.. Its a NOCO G4 with 1.1A per bank so basically just a trickle charge... Will probably put my Noco Gen2 20A eventually on the boat but its only 2 bank. Boy this fun!

Those ACRs do look interesting... Probably overkill but....

Its a Helix 7 but the low voltage was because … well… it just wasn't getting trickle charged while running as my “2+1” was just set on 1 (cranking battery”, nothing going to the house battery. I assumed the engine was charging both. I’ll get there!

Thanks for the input guys. I have been "topping up" the house battery before every trip because the sonar beeped once or twice that voltage was low. Went and checked today trying to sort out everything and noticed the "2+1" switch was on "1", the cranking battery. For some reason I thought it was on "BOTH" allowing the engine to trickle charge both the cranking battery and house... OK, that may be solved now, slowly getting a handle on my "new to me" boat. Next I will grab the 4th bank cable to be able to charge all 4 batteries on dock... Getting there...