Raycaster

Couple light taps with a mallet and slid off like butter. Thx guys. Did notice excessive rubber gunk infront of the impeller house. Black caulking that looks factory and then clear stuff..hmmm.

Have to remove the lower end of my engine for seal replacements that a friend has volunteered for. Great except I have never removed the lower end before. Watched every video possible and looks like I can handle it. The only thing making be nervous is the mention of "possible" linkage that will be required to loosen off. I have looked in the area and can only find this possible nut that can be loosened off. I have included a picture if anyone can verify this or not. Any help appreciated.

Thank you for the replies guys. Yes trying to save a little but don't want to have to return 5X either.

I have a NOV 2006 115ELPT4S that I'm looking for part numbers. The impeller kit I think is 47-43026Q06 but I've seen other numbers... The lower end seal kit is 26-816575A3 but again I've seen other numbers. I know Amazon will allow returns but hoping to get it right the first time. Yup, lower end job for the winter...

My thought Bill was just to simplify things. One charger does it all, it could trickle charge the crank and house battery and at the same time recharge the 2 trolling batteries for the next day. Calculating charge time has a million points to consider but I think Ah/A charging = hours... My math may be off but getting a 12V Group 27 100Ah battery from 25% to 100% is basically 75Ah/1.1 = greater than 60 hours to charge. After a day of regular trolling they may not get down to 25% but just as an example...

Has anyone installed a dual switch like the Perko 8501dp? I have the 4 bank charger wired properly etc. but at 4.4A (1.1A) per bank it would take a LONG time to charge the trolling batteries. Topping up the crank and house battery is no problem as they are trickle charged while running and should stay above 80% anyways. I have a 20A charger the could switch between the trolling battery banks and the crank/house bank…. A switch would defeat the purpose of easy charging all batteries at once but I have a 20A 2 bank and buying a high Amp 4 bank scares my wallet. Probably best idea is just to sell the 2 chargers and open up the wallet and get a proper one.

I have not checked the levels but its been on my mind also. The few times I have taken the batteries out I always wondered if there is spillage as the Legends front compartment for batteries is very tight and requires the 2nd battery to be tilted in to fit… I may reuse the front left livewell as a battery compartment in the future.

100%. Installed VesselView, need a good location for a tablet, on it. Lots of fun, worth it.

Purchased another set 10' bu will have to extend 2 feet, no problem I have proper gauge, heat shrink etc. will do a clean job but... I'm still wondering why a boat with a 4 bank charger wouldn't bother with the house battery. I have a thought (could be wrong). What if 2 were run to the trolling motor batteries and 1 run to the crank BECAUSE with the switch at 2+1 basically the crank and house are in parallel so only 1 could do the job. Ideally a bank per battery is right, I get it, but maybe that's why they didn't add the house directly to a bank. Or..Maybe that bank on the charger is toast.. Its a NOCO G4 with 1.1A per bank so basically just a trickle charge... Will probably put my Noco Gen2 20A eventually on the boat but its only 2 bank. Boy this fun!

Those ACRs do look interesting... Probably overkill but....

Its a Helix 7 but the low voltage was because … well… it just wasn't getting trickle charged while running as my “2+1” was just set on 1 (cranking battery”, nothing going to the house battery. I assumed the engine was charging both. I’ll get there!

Thanks for the input guys. I have been "topping up" the house battery before every trip because the sonar beeped once or twice that voltage was low. Went and checked today trying to sort out everything and noticed the "2+1" switch was on "1", the cranking battery. For some reason I thought it was on "BOTH" allowing the engine to trickle charge both the cranking battery and house... OK, that may be solved now, slowly getting a handle on my "new to me" boat. Next I will grab the 4th bank cable to be able to charge all 4 batteries on dock... Getting there...

Started a new thread concerning onboard charging. My "new to me" boat has a noco 4 bank charger that was connected to the 2 trolling batteries (dc group 27) and a cranking battery. Although I love the idea I was having problems with my trolling motor batteries so I took the charger out of the equation to find the fault. I replaced the trolling motor connector and the problem seems to have disappeared making the assumption the charger is fine. Is there any CON to re-hooking up the onboard charger? I'm always paranoid that since the trolling batteries are connected in series (24V Terrova) that this might confuse the charger even though the batteries are connected separately to the charger. Also, the boat also has a "House" battery that could also be connected to the charger but is not. Is there a reason it wouldn't be? Actually, the charger is missing the 4th cable that I have find (no luck yet) and purchase. I will add a wiring diagram later but it's nothing to crazy. It does include a (2+1) switch for the Cranking and House battery... Any thoughts welcome, thx.

OK, cut off the other connector and replaced with what I used on my last Minn Kota. I use a clunky welding connector but it worked flawless for years before and besides being non-waterproof they really work well when needed. The other detail was that I disconnected a onboard charger that was directly hooked to the batteries. The boat has a 4 bank noco charger hooked up to the 2 trolling batteries and 1 to the cranking battery. I may re-install the charger but I will make a separate thread for that. As Akrisoner mentioned the connector looked to be the culprit as the batteries now work like brand new! I trolled 8 hrs on Lake Ontario and started with 4 bars and ended with 3! It was just used for gps steering at speed 2, but I'm happy. Was kinda looking into new Lithium batteries but no need yet and my wallet is happier. Thank you for the help guys.

BillM, you may be right(probably) and my electrical math rusty but won't a 24V 100ah be equal to 2 @12v 100ah in series?

I was just thinking it would be optimal just to go 24V for my Terrova. Most people go the 12V 100ah and just run series like regular but it just seems sloppy if you know you need exactly 24V and not worried about having to crank the engine in an emergency..

This is a great topic with content. Just looking at this also as Im farting around with good/bad batteries. Are there disadvantages of just going to a 24v battery? Charger?

It could be the plug and receptacle for sure. It seems like a very professional setup with mesh sock on the cables etc. BUT strangely it is a 3 prong connector (a marine connector not extention cable type). I just assumed it was overkill and they didn't use one of the prongs. I will look at it today probably.

The tests are for voltage and cranking ability. They independently came back pretty close to each other. The batteries are basic flooded DC batteries 1 and 2 year old. Logically I think one of the batteries is done. unfortunately, I have not been able to look at the boats wiring yet. I might run over there today to take a look. It’s a pretty basic series circuit with breaker so I can’t image they fudged it up originally.

Batteries are within 10% of rated performance. Part Source and CT agree. OK, will check wiring when I get a chance, the game is afoot!

I have a 80 Terrova (2024) with 2 12V Group 27 batteries with a 18ft Legend. They run in series and have a proper breaker etc. My old Terrova 80 with 2 12V Group 27 batteries with a 16ft Legend lasted days of trolling... I know the new boat is alot heavier but... After fully charging both batteries the new Terrova shows only 3 bars for the batteries and after a hour or 2 shows no bars. The trolling motor is set at 2-4 speed just used really for gps steering. When I charge the batteries again 1 battery is basically charged already and the other takes 6-8hrs? Its like they were wired wrong but wouldn't the terrova complain about only 12V instead of 24V? I just took them to Part Source to check and they both got a "OK"? I expected 1 to be toast. I use a NOCO Gen2 2 Bank charger that has been awesome for me. Will have to check wiring on boat but will probably take batteries for a second opinion at crappytire. I understand the proper wiring etc. but assumed the previous owner did it right as it has nice connectors and a mesh sock over the cabling. BTW, the batteries are 2022 and 2023.

Ok, hard wired everything. Sender and ground good at console. results: guage.

I have grounded the fuel sender straight to the battery for testing. Today I will yank out the guage to test and get a 100% answer

Here’s a general description of the connections: Power (12V) Wire: Red Ground Wire: Black Sender Wire: Pink or Yellow Illumination Wire: Blue Ok, getting closer.

So I got the boat in the driveway making a few fixes... I hooked up the original fuel sender again and started testing it with the new one I purchased. Again the needle went to full with an empty tank. I removed from the tank and manual moved the ring to the top and bottom to see if the guage did anything. Well... It actually moved a little more past full! Not sure what the past owner did but it seems like it might be in reverse? I'm very tempted to reverse the cables on the Gas Guage but there are 4 wires to it. Ignition, ground, and wire from fuel sender. The 4th wire may be a light wire? Looking for a Legend Xcalibur 2007 wiring diagram before I screw something up.