vinnimon

A suction cup works great on a canoe

If you have a trolling motor, mount it on the underside with a hose clamp

Either way, you had a great day of fishing

I will see about busting this 30 inch fish thing thats going on, go team 4

You should really replace both.....but you didn't get your monies worth on those two......could be a bad cell in that battery but have you thought about a different brand.

 

Bob

I stick to interstate, no knock offs or blemished ones at all. 3 years so far, and I do drain them down, when i use them in my canoe for the ff and trolling motor.

thanks guys , but i'm looking for a fix where i can only get at one side of the rivet , i'm going to give the closed blind rivets a go

They do sell waterproof rivots in 3/16 plus, an manual rivot gun and adding sealant in the hole should work for you.Contact transaxle or traction, they should have some in stock. If not, pm me and I will see what I can do for ya.

Well here you go guys and gals, you wanted pics

My neighbour as always came over to give me a hand, and another I called over to ask his opinion. All I can say on their part is

Im not sure I want to use 2 of these reels, but for temporary purposes' , they will suffice.

There is also another addition to the project, but that can wait for the time being. If youve been on lloyds boat, then you will know what i am adding to it. There were 2 left on sale on the shelf at home depot today

Its still in rough form for now, and Im not sure wether to polish it or paint it as of yet. Time will tell.

On to the pics

Not any more

Last week while digging up prices etc, and seeing someones homemade mast made me think, I can make a better one And for much less

So far I have 60$ tied into it including the line. By the time Im done, it shouldnt be more than 120$, pending which which reels I use.

I will post a few pics as I go.

Stub and base finished, mast welded up, now to install the extras and a little extra as well

I will post a few pics later on.

The boards will be this weekends job.

Thanks guys, i may have to call them directly.

Either way its a thought that I may persue in the future

I only use it for emergencies

Aluminum buck rivots, some sealant, an air hammer and a peice of steel stock(or a hammer).

Thats all you need to it properly for a good tight fit. The rivots varies from 3/16 to 5/16nths for what you need.

Pm me if you need further assistance fixing the issue.

Heres a pic for you guys of my kicker

Did we hit anything... I don't remember.. I had my head down !!

just my two cents worth, and not jacking the topic

Yesterdays accident at brock rd and mclean rd in guelph(arberfoyle)

Truck drivers at times are worse than teens, thinking that all is fine to google and chat away

Sorry, just had to let it out.

I hope the fellow survives.

This idea has been running through my mind for a while, condering fuel cost, noise from the prop while trolling etc.

Ive searched on line and havent found anything yet, and still searching.

To convert it to an electric start isnt a big deal, im sure the flywheel has a ring gear, and to find a starter and space for it.

My main concern is throttle control.

Is there a conversion kit available?

Has anyone done this before? I know it may be a task, but why not try, if its feasable.

Thanks in advance for your input

V

My neighbours old snowblower had the prior years gas in it. It started and ran fine for me. A very old craftsman 5 hp What a work horse

Fish or no fish, you had a good day with a good gent

Thanks for the replies

fishing info mainly

I forsee 20 colour lead core set ups very soon

Vinny... did you try special touch? they are located on Brigadoon... good guy too.. Solopaddler put me on to him a couple years ago... great guy!

Intrigue me I may even know him

I got to work wednesday and the power was off, by 9am we were told to go home

Oh,I wasnt going to complain at all . I tried to get a hold of a friend for a day out for chinnies, well there was no answer, Fine. So instead I went to price out canvas for the bow of my boat, ouch!!! After that I decided I will check out an antique shop that advertisized fishing lures. So off I went across the street not knowing what I would find.

I searched the first Ilse, and theres wasnt much there

Then I spoke to the clerk, he took me back where they all the were I didnt have the time to go through it

So I figured I would recheck the first Isle before leaving and I seen these two penn boxs hidden. I opened them up and tested them, made a deal with the clerk And now their mine

A very nice fellow by the name of Tom, Thanks a ton

Mint shape, all the paper work and orig reel wrap with penn logo, tools, grease, boxs in pristine shape Spooled with steel wire on each of them.

Its so shiny, im afraid to use them.

Not to be an just my 2 canadian cents worth

For anyone thats wants to weld something to the plug, wedge something in, be perpared, you will have another issues to deal with. A broken bit is enough headaches.

There is a guy in the hammer that specializes in this. And he is good at it. He has warned what not to do, just in case. And what to do.

If it was not an engine block or a cylindar head, I would say go for it.

Damaging the threads in any manner could cause a plug bow out or a compression leak.

Wurth has a product that freezes things to -40 or something close to it. I have used it to undo bolts that I didn't think would ever come undone. I wonder if it would work for you in this case. Give them a call.

I may have to make an inquiry Thanks Cliff . We deal with a lot of stainless, and its a pain is rear to get screws out to change a light on a unit.

I like using castles liquid torch, it works better than most Ive tried.

About the only thing I don't have in my arsenal, of multiple roller cabinets, is left hand bits Vince. I always mean to grab some one day.. but it never happens!

If theres an auckland granger store around, im sure they will have it. usually open till noon on saturdays.

ps those bits are extremely expensive.

In all my years of wrenching on engines (since I was 13 years old) I've never had this happen (and why I always put antiseize on plug threads).

 

Working on getting my JD350 dozer going so my son can grade his lot and of course the one plug (out of 3) that wasn't firing was seized in place. Couldn't turn it with a 3/8 ratchet.. so of course I hit it with the 1/2" and broke it off. Looks like about 1/2 inch of thread section left in the head.

 

I've sprayed some penetrating oil at it... and thought I'd come here and ask the mechanics what their plan of attach would be! I'm figuring maybe an EZ-out.. but with it being about 3inches recessed I don't know....

 

Thanks!

Ive been there before , but you have easy access to it.

You will need a left hand drill bit, one that cuts in reverse for starters( one thats about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch smaller than the max diameter of the plug) .

A shop vac, and reduce the hose end to reach inside the cylindar bore.

You already have a guide at the plug.

A thin magnet.

A can of Liquid Torch.

A very good small sharp pointed chisel and a small hammer( just in case).

Ive been lucky on a few cat. detroit 55 and 60 series, cummins and volvo engines with the same issue, except they were fuel line fittings seized in the head.

Most times the heat generated from the left hand bit frees them up

As for easy outs, I find most of them expands what your trying to free up. Snap on has the best Ive used.If it moves then use the easy out.

Just my 1.9238 american cents worth.

I did fail to mention that on monday, there was a call out on channel 16. I listened in to see if the issue was in my area, but it was out of bronte. A small 16ft vessel reported floating around with no one aboard. Thankfully it was only a stolen boat left out to drift.

Kudos to the coast gaurd with their response time With 10 to 15 minutes they fly past me.

I could surely use a boat that goes that fast