DRIFTER_016

What caliber Chevy is that?

I had several close calls when I lived in Grand Valley.

I did use a small caliber Chevy on a 12 point buck one October. Unfortunately I was under gunned and all I got for my troubles was a $7000 repair bill. The buck got away.

I think I'm beginning to hate you.

 

Don't be Hatein', just make him your new best buddy and invite yoself fer a plane ride.

If you're looking to go deep get rid of your stainless wire and replace it with some Spectra down rigger line.

It is much thinner and will cut through the water way better and have virtually no swing back, plus it comes in lengths to 400'.

Spectra Downrigger Line

Every time I've been to the BZ it's been 'bows & 'hos and no big kings. I know they're there, just have to find them!

Me Too!!!

My main purpose going out there was to hammer steelies, could care less about the sammins.

I prefer the garbage can full of water approach myself.... and generally costs nothing as well... guarantees the intakes are under water. On some engines muffs don't do the job.

Works great for smaller motors but not so much with large outboards.

I don't even think my lower unit will fit in a garbage can.

Next pics: coming to a forum near you, Oct 2010!!!

 

p.-

Paul

What, so now you're going to take a year and a half off!!!!!!

lol hilarious post & nice fishies. thanks for sharing!

 

On a side note, I've done similar things... dunked a camera (twice... still works)...

p.-

Me too, only I was still attached to it at the time.

up to how far away can u be from your troling motor?

Not sure about the Co-Pilot wireless control but the foot control has an 18' cable.

Sounds like my usual day.

I also love the auto pilot feature. It lets me concentrate on fishing not worry about where the boat is going.

I need to get a new motor soon as my current one is now 18 years old. Time for an 80# 24V unit me thinks.

"They put things in perspective when that report was published in 2003...You're only 6 years late"

 

That's how far behind they are in the prairie provinces. It takes that long for news to get there. Watch out for SARS in Sask.

 

By the way, everyone in the U.S. and Canada are going to die.

By the way, everyone in the U.S. and Canada are going to die, EVENTUALLY!!!

Don't remind me about SARS!!!!

I got to spend a week in quarantine during that deal.

Did the same bone last September jumping down from a river bank. I took 6 or 8 weeks to fully heal.

No cast, crutches just limp along for a while.

After looking into things a little more I have changed my mind about using oak for the transom.

I found some smaller boats for sale that use oak from the factory, so I would say go ahead and use it.

I would give a couple of coats of sealer or Varathane though.

HMMMMMMMM, The Flower is going to have some intimate time with Bubba from Cell Block C.

What type of system do you have?

Old style pulleys or new rotary or rack and pinion?

My guess is one of the newer ones.

It is fairly easy to remove and replace the cable.

You need to remove the little bolt and nut at the end of the cable on the motor (port side) and loosen off the large nut on the cable (motor starboard side) Next slide the cable out of the motor. Under the dash the should be a pin that holds the cable into the helm. remove this and turn the steering so the cable backs out. Finally pull the cable out of the boat.

But before you do any of this there should be a grease zerk on the motors tilt tube. Hit it with the grease gun until a little bit of grease comes out of the cable seal on the port side of the motor. Work the steering back and forth several times to spread the lube. If this doesn't fix your issues purchase a new cable.

I have rebuilt a couple transoms on my skiffs over the years. I always use marine grade plywood with lots of varnish. If the material (wood) is too hard your motor clamps may unknowingly vibrate loose enough that when accelerating quickly from a standing position into a very tight turn a larger outboard (25hp or 30hp) upon very fast accelaration will make your motor pop off the transom and you'll be hanging onto it by the tiller with the throttle on full. Your cable or chain may be properly secured but your motor will take a swim anyway. Believe me, this adds a bit of excitement to your fishing day. I know most of you think something like this never happens but it does.

 

Using the regular plywood the clamps, over time, will settle into the depressions in the wood and prevent this from happening. Checking onccasionaly to insure the motor clamps are tight is advisable. And always have a chain to anchor your motor to the boat as an added precaution.

 

The newer motors have improved clamps and can also be bolted to the transom therefore not requiring the chain.

A safety chain to the boat is good.

Another safety chain hooked to the holes in the end of the clamps of most small outboards will stop them from loosening off.

If the clamps have the Tee handle type you can put a small outboard lock on to stop them from backing off. It's just a little more expensive.

Outboard Motor Lock

If you end up putting a motor on your current canoe go with a mount like this one on the Edmonton Kijiji site.

Canoe Motor Mount

Okay. Here's my stupid question of the day - Is there any reason why a solid piece of plastic type stuff wouldn't work? I'm thinking the same density of material as they use for dasher boards at rinks etc. Is the problem cost, weight or rigidity?

 

JF

John

The base board stuff is not very stiff and there would be alot of flex.

We just bought a Sub Zero 2 person ice hut for 215 yesterday (Friday).....It is really roomy....and extremely dark inside....Could buy for the buck!

 

Lorissa

Should have picked it up at the end of season icefishing sale in March, they were even cheaper then.

I won't tell you how much because I don't want to dissapoint you.

As for being in the wind. Just anchor one tether before setting it up and then anchor the other three.

It can be difficult to set up the first time or two out. Take time to look and see how it sets up and collapses and you will be fine.

It wil take three or four trials before you see exactly how it collapses back down.

The poles get broken by trying to force the shelter closed. When you get the hang of it, it will close just like one of those folding camp chairs.

When you put it away leave the windows detached, and place them in the carry bag last.

In cold weather they get stiff and if left attached and folded they can break.

If you want to put a motor on your canoe, sell the one you have and get a square stern Sports Pal.

Your canoe wasn't designed for a motor and you should not put one on it. Buy the proper gear and be safe.

Marine plywood only. Regular plywood will delaminate.

Plus one for Marine Plywood.

In the Toronto area call Noah's Marine Supplies

It should be fairly easy.

What kind of boat is it?

Check to see if there are any access hatches in the rear of the boat, including in the splash well.

All you will need is a volt meter or 12 volt test light.

You said you had a buddy that can weld aluminum for you, so hand him the brackets and ask him to weld up the cracks for you.

Not sure of the best course of action for the rib.

It would be nice to see a wide shot of the area.

I agree. I did scuba diving on Beaverlodge Lake in northern Sask. ( Uranium City) and swam in the cleanest, clearest waters with the lake trout. Awesome dives.

I wouldn't want to be eaten by one of the unseen prehistoric lakers around my part of the country!!!!

Fishing Charter for salmon and trout on Lake O.