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DRIFTER_016

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Posts posted by DRIFTER_016

  1. I put one of these in my boat last year and it is a really nice radio.

    It is one of if not the smallest fixed marine vhfs on the market. Plus it has all the features of larger radios. Cost is also reasonable. I run it with a base loaded 3' stainless antenna and get decent range, though not as good as an 8 footer. But 8' antennas look dumb on bass boats. :P

     

    ic_m304.jpg

     

    Here's a shot of it flush mounted in the helm of my boat. :D

     

    new.jpg

  2. Salmon fishing in rivers is a good news/bad news deal. The good news is they can be a lot of fun to catch. The bad news is that nothing attracts hordes of inbred idiots like a salmon run. So they quickly become just about impossible to catch legitimately as a result of all the morons wading in up to their chins and snagging the bejeezus out of them. Actually, snagging is the least of it - it's fairly common to see jerks chasing them up and down the rapids with landing nets, night and day. Popular rivers like the Credit, Humber and Bronte can be absolute war zones on warm autumn weekends, so little wonder the fish get just a wee bit spooky.

     

    If you can find undisturbed fish (and it's a big if) then they can be caught legitimately on regular steelhead tackle. Truth is, in most rivers they can't really go too far, so if you're patient, they're fairly easy to land on a medium to heavy steelhead rod and mono from maybe 6 to 10 pound test. Fluorocarbon is even better. Forget braid - it looks like rope in the water, and this is one kind of fishing where you want to be as subtle and low-visibility as you can. Your St. Croix should be fine providing you don't try to horse the fish. Regular float fishing techniques with roe or small dark-coloured flies will work just fine on fresh salmon.

     

    In larger, deeper rivers, you're probably better off to use a heavier spinning outfit and cast small crankbaits like Flatfish, Kwikfish, Hot Shots etc. Cast across the pool and slowly retrieve so it swings across in the current. You might want to add a split shot or two, maybe a foot in front of the lure, to help get it down in the current. For what it's worth, this works really well in the frogwater down by the lake, and in harbour areas too. In fact it's probably the most reliable way to catch salmon legitimately from land. I've completely given up stream fishing for them in favour of this approach.

     

    The best harbour and stream fishing is for freshly-arrived fish. They deteriorate quickly in shallow creeks like Bronte or the Humber, especially if the weather is a bit warm. Once they reach spawning condition, it's basically game over - they're focused on having fun with other salmon, so leave them be. A good rule of thumb is, if you can see the fish, then they can see you too. Move on and try somewhere else.

     

    Chinook usually show up in the lower end of bigger rivers by the end of August, usually following a good cold rain. Coho are normally a bit later, normally October or November. Coho seem to respond to lures more consistently than chinook, but that's just my opinion.

     

    Best advice I can offer is to get as far away from other people as possible. Some of these guys who show up for the salmon run are real Neanderthals. Honestly ... it's a wonder some of them can even walk upright.

     

     

    Some good advice here.

    To add, I always had good luck using Michigan Wigglers (flies) in chartreuse or orange.

    Float fishing is IMHO the best way to legally hook fish, especially in pressured waters.

     

    I found early on in my salmon fishing exploits that I foul hooked many more fish when bottom bouncing than I did once I went to the float.

     

    Try and get away from the rubes and your chances for fair hookups increase dramatically.

  3. Before you go trailering all over Ontario, I would service the bearings just to make sure things are all good there. Nothing worse than being stuck on the side of the road with a pooched bearing when you should be out working a frog in the slop. ;)

  4. Yeah for a few hundred $$$$ you can buy yourself a manual jack plate and use that.

    You can continue to use it with the new motor as well. It will allow you to set your motor height perfectly for best performance. They will also set your motor a little bit further back which will actually make your boat handle as if it were a little longr as well.

     

    Cabelas Jack Plates

     

     

    The Mini Jacker from BPS is probably your cheapest option though.

     

    Mini Jacker

  5. I've done this quite a number of years ago on a 9.9 Merc, but never on a bigger outboard.

    Mine is working fine, but I have not done it since i got the motor 9 years ago...and who knows when it was done before that. I'm a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't mess with it", but we all know this part is made of rubber and will eventually fail when we least want it to.

    Has anyone done one on a mid 80's 90 H.P. Merc or similar?

     

    I noticed slowpoke has a Mariner 75 H.P. that is not peeing and this could be next on his list?

     

    Is it just the 4 bolts and the lower unit drops off? I know you should have gaskets and such for the repair job, but just curious about how much work it is to get at it.

     

    Thanks

     

    I have a '91 Merc 90 and have done the waterpump several times.

    It's not hard at all, the hardest part is reinstalling the lower unit afte the impeller work is done.

     

    I have the Mercury repair manual for my engine and can copy and send you a PDF of the removal and installation of the water pump if you like.

    You will have wait a day or two though as I will need to do it at work.

  6. Nice!!!!

    I'm currently on stage 2. :D

     

    I bought it in February to save some $$$$$$ ;)

    The 2 man tent was getting a little crowded with me and the dog in there. :lol:

     

    6.jpg

     

    Don't think I'll ever make it to stage 6. unsure.gif

     

    avenir_3l.jpg

  7. Another thing that will work should 3M body side moulding tape.

    The stuff they use to hold on body side mouldings, vent visors etc.

    Installed properly it is extremely hard to remove.

    I just bought some at Napa (15' roll of 1/2" wide tape was under $15).

  8. Check your email LucG I sent those pics. By the way, is that front compartment on your boat used as storage or a livewell? On my boat the battery is located in that exact spot and sits in a battery box.

     

     

    That's the worst spot to put a battery.

    One of the biggest killers of batteries (besides leaving them half charged) is shock and vibration.

    They get the biggest pounding up front.

    The best location for batteries is as close to the transom as you can get.

    Put them back there and you can at least double the life expectancy of your batteries.

  9. so us from southern ontario dream about going to northern ontario or NWT

    people in Yellowknife dream of going north to Alaska.......I guess it's true

    the tundra is always greener on the other side of the fence ...LOL

    sounds like a great trip, but I can walk to the fridge for a beer..:sarcasm:..LOL

     

     

    Actually it's South of here. :D

     

    and I can walk to the fridge for beer too. :tease:

     

    6.jpg

     

    It's right there under the sink. B)

     

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  10. Hope someone more knowledge can provide some help. I have to stick a plastic/resin part (bottom is roughed) to a stainless steel cradle of sorts. I'm not sure what the best type of adhesive agent would be.

     

    The catch is it will be treated roughly, exposed to sea water and potentially be in temps down to -15C. Its for a satellite tag for walrus.

     

    Any help is appreciated.

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Jay

    Get yourself some U-40 Quick Bond 15 minute gel epoxy the stuff fills gaps and sticks like you wouldn't believe.

    Make sure you prep the surfaces well so you get good adhesion.

     

    U-40 Quick Bond

  11. I know exactly how you feel. :rolleyes:

    I'm counting the days to my vacation.........Currently I have 35 Days 19 Hours 9 Minutes and 16 Seconds to go.............Give or take a few. Not that I'm counting or anything. :lol:

    Then it's off to Alaska for 38 days of food.gif, cheers.gif, entertain005.gif, beer.gif, drinking010.gif, Gonefishing.gif and rv.gif. Not necessarily in that order.

    See a theme here? jumpingsmilies.gif

  12. in the past two years I used the minn Kota 45lb Powerdrive and well I liked it. but hardly used the auto pilot. so i was thinking of getting the Edge or Maxxum with cabledrive. and I guess I'd run the 2 batteries as in the past I would have two batteries in the boat for a full day of fishin. tho with the 24volt system how would I hook up my 12v fish finder? just hook it to one? or what? as well as a bilge pump ?

     

     

    The best way to run the rest of your accessories is from the main battery.

    Run the trolling motor off the deep cycles and the rest off the main battery.

    This is how my boat is set up.

     

    If you really want to run them off the trolling battery set up just run the power and ground wires to one of the batteries.

  13. not trying to steal your thread but Im was also curious to see what people prefer (12v/24v.. cable driven or electric) as Im unfortunately in search of a new trolling motor / battery after some one stole mine..

    I personally am on my trolling motor all day long bass fishing. and want something that is going to last me

     

    If you're on it all day a 24 Volt system will be better for you as the battery charge will last double.

    OHM's law states that when you double the voltage you use 1/2 the amperage (power).

     

    The cable steered motors are faster reacting than the motor driven ones but the motor driven ones can also come equipped with auto pilot giving you more time to concentrate on fishing and less on motor control.

    You can also get them with wireless remotes. ;)

  14. A 55# 12 Volt motor is plenty for your application.

    My original trolling motor that came on my 18 footer was under powered at 36# so I have a new 80# 24 Volt one that it is being replaced with. For many years I just hooked the battery up to a portable charger when I got home at the end of the day. This year I bought a 3 bank on board charger.

    One of these days I will get time to install the new stuff and actually go out and use the boat. :rolleyes:

  15. I look after the Engineering Systems (CAD and database stuff) for a large engineering company in Oakville

     

     

    Which one?

    My buddy does piping design in the area and has been around the industry for quite a while.

     

     

     

     

    Me, I'm the IT Manager for the college in Yellowknife, NWT. :ninja:

  16. I made another video after the success I had with my Ice Road Fishers video and this one is currently looking good to win in the summer video contest. The video was shot of the course of several hours on the Whitefish River in the NWT and features hungry pike attacking home made topwater lures constructed from aluminum cigar tubes. So if you could take some time to have a look and maybe vote and post a comment if you have a minute I would be most grateful. :whistling:

    You need to register to vote or comment though but it's no different than registering on youtube or photobucket.

     

    Exciting Topwater Pike Video :)

    Thanks for your support it is muchly appreciated!!! :thumbsup_anim::thumbsup_anim:

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