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DRIFTER_016

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Posts posted by DRIFTER_016

  1. You guys in the South are very lucky!!!

    Inet pricing in the far North is brutal.

    I have a basic cable package and it's 5 Meg Down 384K up 20 Gig usage and costs me about $70 per month.

    The closest we have to unlimited is 50 Meg down 2 Meg up and 100 Gig usage for $120/mo. :(

     

    I could get a better pkg than I have in Ontario with Bell for less than $45. :wallbash:

    Heck the Fibe 25 package would be less than I am paying now and give me 25 Meg down, 7 Meg up and 100 Gigs usage. :rolleyes:

  2. On the bottom of the oil tank are a pair of wires that go to the oil level sender just unplug them and the alarm should stop. Had my sensor go bad in the middle of the lake once and did this.

    If you remove the beeper you will not only kill the oil level warning but the over heat warning as well.

  3. Very good discussion so far...by the way my point remains...when the licensing body certifies a vehicle for 3500 lbs towing capacity I logically assume such vehicle can and should be able to tow up to that much. Under all normal road conditions and those include rain and snow... And organizations who certify them must be considering towing includes stopping as well....otherwise it doesn't make any sense...why would a vehicle be rated for 3500 lbs if it cannot tow that much or cannot stop with trailer behind that is that heavy. All I am trying to say is RAV4 V6 rated at 3500 lbs by the authorities MUST be able to tow AND stop with such weight behind. And I am sure it is certified to do it in rain and snow (not that I'll be towing the boat in the snow;-) or slippery roads. Yes frequency of towing is the only thing that cannot be calculated in advance but as I said I don't do it that often or that far...

     

     

    Jedimaster,

    RAV4 V6 trully is an amazing vehicle from what I've been reading about it over the last 5 years.

    It actually has that option. What Toyota calls Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) with traction control (TRAC). Here is a quote I just found:

     

    ...this compact crossover come available with front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive with a locking center differential. The optional all-wheel-drive system uses electronic control to send power rearward when slippage in front is detected, and it offers a lock that fixes the front/rear torque split at 50/50. This last feature should score the RAV4 high marks with the four-wheeling crowd as well as some true capability in slush, snow, and mud. Its improved stability (from its wider track) and smoother ride (from its longer wheelbase) make it, once again, top of its class, thanks to an all-new suspension and stiffer chassis.

     

    My vehicle is a little larger (Honda Pilot) than the Rav4 you're looking at but I can say that pulling my 18 footer is like it's not even there. My popup camper is another story but it's very near the towing limit of the vehicle while my boat is at about 50%. You definately know the camper is there but it pulls and stops fine. My vehicle has the same type of all wheel drive system including the center locking diff and the only thing you need to be aware of is you start off in front wheel drive and if the front tires start to slip it shifts some power to the rears. This is all fine and good and it works fine but you need to make sure you do your tire rotation. The reason is the little bit of slippage on the front before it brings in the rears tends to wear the fronts much more quickly than the rears. If you never rotate the fronts will be slicks before the rears show any wear at all. Just a little something you will need to be aware of.

     

    One more thing to check is the Rav4's maximum tongue weight and the actual tongue weight of your trailer.

    My boat is well below the maximum but the camper is very close to maximum and it squats the rear pretty good even with after market air bags.

     

    I think the Rav4 will be fine for your needs. IMHO

  4. its usually a sacrificial part as well that will curode to protect the main motor from corrosion...

     

    it might have curoded right off...

     

     

    its the silver piece above the prop

     

     

     

    index.jpg

     

    Only if used in salt water.

    Freshwater they don't corrode.

     

    And yes it looks like it's missing.

     

    Mine fell off somewhere on the road a couple of years ago. :wallbash:

     

    Another thing to check is the trim pin that sets the motor angle when running.

    If it has been lost the boat will try to push the nose down into the water and this will also cause the pulling issue.

  5. Holy moly Dave... are you still ice fishing up there? I bet you are eh :whistling: That's some lovely weather you're having.

     

    Got at least another month of ice up here.

    Still tons of snow on top of the 4'+ of ice.

    I haven't had the motivation to go out ice fishing since I got back from Florida though.

    Can't wait for some liquid water to run my boats around on. :whistling:

  6. Ahh ok so I got some info about shell gas... so What Shell has done since the latest thing is scammed out the regulations. The 5% renewable mandate is based on the total amount refined. so what they have done is increase the amount of ethanol in the bronze gas, and this leaves them with enough headroom to manufacture 91 octane without any ethanol... Petro Can fuels at 94 octane all have ethanol...

     

    Here is the quote fromt he Email.... so if you want ethanol free go for the V-Power... or cheack around with the smaller places...

     

    Jedi

    Can you ask him about their fuels North of the 60th parallel?

    I'm pretty certain that none of the fuels up here have ethanol, but would like to know for certain.

  7. ALL grades of our gas contain ethanol....as least all our pumps as Drifter has pointed out bear the ethanol stickers.....well at least here in NYS...mid west states had ethanol way before we did.

     

     

    All the pumps I was at in Florida also had the stickers.

    The pumps at the marinas stated they were ethanol free.

  8. Stay with the high test!!!! No ethanol in high test. Old fuel lines don't do well with ethanol over time. I could show you piles of rotten fuel lines and carb gaskets from using reg fuel. That's why most marinas are going to high test at the pump. Pay now or pay later. Stay with the good stuff

     

     

    Or move to Yellowknife where none of our fuel has ethanol in it.

    Our vehicles would be freezing up all ovet the place otherwise. ;)

  9. Appreciate it guys! I realize the Yamalube wasn't magical, just needed some opinions from some of you veterans :)

     

     

    I also run the Nautilus gear oil and have been since new.

    My motor just turned 21 and I have never had an issue.

     

    In my sled I run Yamalube oil as there is no other oil in town with the right viscosity (0-30). :(

    In your case I would run the Yamalube for the break in period and then switch to a full synthetic. ;)

     

    I run full synthetic injector oil in my OB. :D

  10. It's really dependent on what type of water you're going to be fishing.

     

    Shallow, deep, sandy, weedy, muddy, rocky.... Lake, river?

     

    Depending on where you are, cranks might not even be the best choice.

     

    But to answer the topic, I'd include some more slender stick baits like Reef Runners, Tail Dancers, Wally Stingers, Mann's Stretch 20 etc.

     

    Don't forget the ripplin' redfins. ;)

  11. Not to dredge up an old topic, but can anyone tell me where I can get sealed blind rivets in Markham/Durham area?

     

    Been to the hardware stores Brafasco and Fastenall in Markham and Pickering areas and they don't have stainless or aluminium sealed blind rivets in stock. Anyone know where I can get them. Princess Auto?

     

    I've just redone the floor of my 17' Springbok and love the extra space without the old beat up livewell. I am going to leave it out and patch the through hole.

     

    Thanks

     

    I purchased mine through Hanson Rivet

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