Dutch

I had a 2006 Colorado 5 cylinder 2wd and it towed my 18 foot Springbok with a 150 fine. Getting out of some steeper launches that were gravel was iffy at best. I wished I had the 4wd.

The 5 was fine on gas, but I was never able to get the advertised gas mileage, well under for that matter. That was a fairly new engine in 2006 from what I remember, so maybe they have made in-roads in fuel consumption since then.

I looked into making my own plastics about a year or so ago. I found out it is really a labour of love and won't save you a lot of cash up front after buying your supplies, but maybe a bit over the long term.

The best molds are cast aluminum and you can get them on the net or have them made custom. Some other people use silicone molds that are home-made that also work well and are a lot cheaper.

Thing that really turned me off was the heating of the plastic - need a microwave and you have to be VERY careful as it has to get up to about 300 degrees+. You need to wear glasses and gloves at a minimum. Also, everything has to be absolutely dry as any water will boil instantly and could cause a blow-up. Also, it stinks to high heaven, so you have to do it in the garage or a shed somewhere.

I don't mean to turn you off, but just want to make sure you are aware of what you are getting into.

Boat trader dot com.

http://boating.ncf.ca/buy-usa.html

I actually just have Navionics for my cell phone (Android).

I'm too cheap for data but the phones gps is pretty damn good. It was way off on Ahmic but every other lake (Balsam, Gull, Scugog, seemed pretty accurate.

Wouldn't take much to make a clean velcro mount for the boat. Still waiting for a bluetooth transducer... to complete the deal.

I have a handheld for my bassboat and have been looking at the navtronics for my phone, but this is a 33 foot cruiser with a significant draft that needs a fairly accurate depth and location reading.

Too bad the dorsal fin isn't up, SM the fin is solid, LM the fin is separated.

Not a hybrid, very unlikely, but not impossible. They spawn at different times and have beds in different types of water.

He'd have to be able to be able to mount the tablet/laptop somewhere. Hard enough piloting a boat that size with having to fumble around holding on to a tablet or laptop - the channels are pretty tight in some areas of the TS waterway.

The guy just bought a large, expensive boat, surely he has $1000-$1500+ to get a proper marine electronics/gps set-up.

Are you willing to go to the states for the boat?

Check out alumacraft. I haven't driven one, but have heard good things about them.

More options in the states. Your post typifies many used boat searches in Ontario - not enough inventory and priced wayyyy too high.

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2009-Alumacraft-Dominator-165-99155977

Not sure about boat rentals. Getting pretty late in the season.

|Could try Viamede or some other resort to see if they are still renting.

hello all

I have some relatives coming from France -senior is avid angler in europe.

they may stay at Little's cottages on stony lake

any ideas on where to fish generaly in that area?

all fish -photo-release

thanks for anyassistance!

Stony in the Kawarthas?

C'mon guys it's ONLY been 7 weeks since the contest ended (August 14th). We can't possibly expect things to take any less time than that.

From what happened last year - apparently the "legal issues" take a long time to sort through and that is apparently the reason for the LONG wait between the end of the contest and the announcement of the winner.

Can't give advice specific to Cuba, but I have fished in Mexico before probably under similar conditions.

Depending on the beach, just find a spot without too many people around. Talk to the chef at the buffet and get some calamari. I found it stays on the hook better than shrimp. Use a small hook and catch some small bait type fish. Cut those up (take a small folding knife in your checked baggage - won't be a problem) and use them as bait, hook through the skin and it will stay on the hook better. After you catch the bait fish, move up the hook size. Should get lots of snapper type fish and maybe a small cuda.

Hey guys.

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Going to follow-up with some PM's.

The application is for an under-deck mounting of a new 3-bank on-board charger I am getting. The current charger is mounted directly to the glass in the back of the boat. I could do that, but I am adverse to drilling screws in, also, if I decide to change in the future, I thought I would plan ahead. I was going to epoxy the board in place, then screw into the plastic to hold the charger.

Colour doesn't matter nor does UV as it will be below the deck in the compartment at the back of the boat.

Some people use plastic cutting-board type material on their hulls to install transducers so they don't have to drill/screw trough their hull.

I'm looking for some of this material, but just a larger size, maybe a foot square. It needs to support a bit of weight, maybe 10 pounds in a hortizontal fasion, so it needs to be able to hold screws reasonably well.

I was thinking of just maybe buying 2 cutting boards and using PL premium or silicone to laminate them together, but thought there must be some type of material available for this purpose.

Anyone seen something - trying to stay 100% away from wood-based product.

I have seen Glass legend boats from the early '90's, that one looks a little more streamlined than the ones I have seen.

I would guess from '96-'98 maybe, but just basing the year of the boat on the graphics on the motor.

SHould be a serial number on the boat - usually they start or end with 2 digits for the year of the boat. Also, the motor will definitely have a SN sticker that should have the year of manufacture on it. If it doesn't have the sticker, you should be able to find the SN and then track the year of manufacture down from there. Assuming the motor is original to the boat, that will tell you the year of the boat.

Glass legend boats didn't last for a reason - they were a fairly wet ride and not very stable for fishing, kind of tippy.

Having said that, if he can get it for a good price, say $7K - $8K max, it could be a good first glass boat. Get the motor checked out.

Great pics - thanks for sharing.

Great to hear, Ron.

Are there other areas in Ontario where this information can be applied?

Pigeon kicks up pretty good with a 20-25 k.m./h wind out of any direction, but north/south would be the worst, especially the area leading into the narrows going into buckhorn. Get's downright nesty there as that a wider area of the lake. It would be cold and wet. I don't think it would be dangerous by any stretch, but you'd really have to like fishing to bear it.

We had BM event on the tri-lakes in August but there was 20-25 k.m./h winds out of the north. I was going to fish pigeon, but there was no point with the wind that strong.

There would be some sheltered area around Emily, you are actaully in the Pigeon river there, but fishing that time of year in that area would be tough, pretty shallow, great in the summer for LM, but not great in the fall. Better to go deeper for smallies although you may luck out and get into some walleye near emily this time of year.

Choot 'em, choot 'em. Choot that alliegator....

Classic show. Watch it every week.

Shouldn't really matter what the numbers are - some compression testers are more accurate than others. The main thing is that all the numbers are within 10% of each other. Sounds like you are good to go.

If there are wrenches on the head bolts, you may have a rebuild. You would need to ask how many hours on the motor since it was rebuilt. As long as there are at least 20 since the rebuild, you are probably fine as the rebuild was most likely done professionally.

I have a Dual pro XL charger in my '07 Triton.

I fished last weekend, came home, plugged in the boat as always. I was geetting ready to go today and went to the back of the boat to turn on the power switches (I always turn the main power off). One of the 27 series interstate batteries on my 24V motorguide had blown its top - this is only its 2nd season. Not sure why this would have happened, I didn't do anything I wouldn't have normally done. It is not hot here at all right now either.

I thought maybe the Dual pro didn't automatically kick off and caused it. According to the owner's manual, it should be left plugged in at all times.

I got the blown up battery out and the one that didn't blow up and cleaned up the acid. Popped the top on the dual pro and there doesn't seem to be any arching. The one heat sink is darker than the other on the bank of the battery that went. There is also some hairline cracks in the charger case that I don't reacll seeing before - maybe fom the heat build-up in the case? I plugged it in briefly, and just got one flashing led light on each bank - which was expected as there wasn't a battery hooked up at that point.

So - how do I test the dual pro to make sure it wasn't the culprit? I was going to be upgrading to 31 series batteries next season anyway, so that batteries were going to go, but I didn't want to have to buy a new charger. Any suggest as to what to do next?

Nice looking rig - thanks for the report.

That's no Kawartha eel....

River fish?

If this was about fishing regulations, a lot of people would be saying ignorance is no excuse, should have known the rules beforehand, but I digress.....

OP - the government has been lenient with other thousands of Canadians that either didn't bother to understand, or just can't comprehend the concept. Give them a call at 1-800-959-8281 and explain and they may waive the penalty.

My bet is that the heavy steering is caused by the fact you were at speed and not trimmed up enough.

My boat has hyd. steering and when I am anywhere over 3500 rpm's and fully trimmed down it is a bear to steer, even with the hyd. steering.

Get up on plane and start to trim up as you gain speed until the steering loosens up.

You just need more seat time in the boat until you get used to it.

Take it to a certified marine mech. BEFORE you buy it. The $200 (Max it should cost) is worth it when spending that much.

Mech should:

1) Check compression on all cylinders

2) Perform a leak-down test

3) Check for spark on all cylinders

If all goes well, take it out for a test drive. Vary RPM's, check ALL on-board systems, livewell, pumps, switches, bow and stern lights. If you are buying an aluminum, ensure the bilge is dry before you go out, then see how much water it takes on while you are out. Ideally it should be dry - if it is not, loose rivets or a crack (if a welded hull), pain to fix and will get worse over time. Not easy to re-set rivets in a closed floor boat.

For eventhing that doesn't work - take money off the price - ot will cost you to get it fixed.

Don't be in a hurry to buy, but be ready to buy when the right boats comes along.

Check the trailer tires and bearings - deduct money for things that will need fixing. Checks the lights.

NEVER buy a boat you can't take on the water. RUNNING A BOAT ON MUFFS IN THE DRIVEWAY IS NOT THE SAME THING.