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Fish4Eyes

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Posts posted by Fish4Eyes

  1. IMO it all depends on the condition of the home. If not much work is required and most of the interior is up to date then I don't see why a realtor is required as the house will speak for itself. But if it needs alot of work, it will be a much harder sell privately unless the price is REALLY right. From what I have seen in my area, people are just downright ridiculous when it comes to asking price on a private sale.

  2. Good advice above by GYPSY400 and John. I would go VW Taureg TDI or Cherokee CRD if I were you Mike. I have personally driven and towed my boat with the Taureg TDI and it is amazing. I did not even feel the boat on the back, whereas with my 4Runner I know damn well its there. My brother went on a road trip to Florida in the Taureg TDI and averaged 11L/100km driving 120+ish almost the whole way. Mercedes makes the engine that is in the Cherokee CRD, enough said. If you decide to get a Toyota, make sure you don't take it to Red Hill Toyota for anything other than an oil change as they have tried to screw me around. Miraculously, every single bolt "seized" on my 4Runner when they went to change my timing belt and water pump. Lets just say they were quick to reverse the 6 additional hours of labour they tried to charge me. I wont even get into inexperienced "mechanics" not being able to diagnose a problem. Good luck with your purchase.

  3. To decrease your chances of headaches when you move in, have the foundation poured in the spring, summer or early fall. You would hate to have a crack in a new build. Sounds like your picky like me so this would certainly drive you nuts. Best of luck with your purchase and build you are certainly making the right choice. After doing reno's myself, I regret not buying new. The only advantage of buying a fixer upper is that if your smart and patient you can save alot of money by looking around and getting multiple quotes instead of the contractor having you by the balls when it comes to upgrades like granite countertops, solid wood vanities/kitchen cupboards and hardwood floors. Almost always it is cheaper to just get the builder grade stuff installed and then upgrade when your budget allows for it. All depends on your taste and preferences in a home.

  4. I'm no tree expert, but looking at my pine in the backyard, it appears as if the roots are near the surface. When we had that wind storm last year it was all pine's that were knocked over in my area (from the base), which to me implies that a pine's roots don't go deep enough to support the tree sufficiently during high winds. If the pine is approx 20 feet from the foundation, can this pose a potential problem? I know my neighbour has had issues with his maple growing roots which are pushing into the foundation walls.

  5. I would keep in mind the fact that if you are replacing the tub, chances are the tile is old as well and bound to leak at any time (assuming it is old). My bathroom L-Cove tiles lasted 30 years before they started to leak, which is considered excellent. As a result of the leak, I was into water damage on the ceiling beneath. Something to keep in mind.

  6. I would request money from the guy just because he thought he could pull a fast one and NOT repair the truck. If you really want to be a prick, call the cops and he will be nailed with faling to remain at the scene of an accident. Almost positive that is 6 points. That will really make him learn his lesson and I bet he wont drive away again.

  7. I’m sorry but they don’t actually give you anything for your old alternator; that money is call a return on the core charge; that you paid out when you purchased the replacement unit. It’s like the beer bottle deposit, built into the price; return the alternator and you get your core/deposit back.

    When that happens all at the same time; as in you buy the unit, have them install it and you pay your bill; they like to make it look like they’re giving you that money for the unit; but they’re actually just giving it back.

     

    Also Canadian tire does not have their own rebuilding division; they buy their units from a number of different remanufacturers; depending on who won Crappies contract, this year, month or day; in other word whoever’s the cheapest.

     

    Now I’m not saying that’s always a bad thing; but there’s a reason their nickname is Crappy Tire; it’s always a crapshoot that what you buy from them is any good.

     

    Dan.

     

    To each their own I guess. I payed half price when comparing quotes to what the dealer wanted. Even without the core return I thought the price was reasonable and I consider myself a bargain hunter. Alternators/starters purchased from CT are still working after 5+ years.

  8. thanks for all your input.

     

    just got it checked & replaced by a mechanics my car-guy friend knows.

    the total costs was right in the range mentioned above which is OK.

     

    However, was completely surprised to hear him saying that

    at 210k km ... anything in the car can break down at any time ...

     

    This is when you pat yourself on the back for buying an import and not North American :ninja:

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